Rear diff Service questions

[donalds]

ol. If the joint is bad, sure it won’t hurt, but I wouldn’t want it getting into a good one.

Exactly what I meant
Everyone has Wd 40 and it will make the squeak stop rite away just to find the bad joint
I would never use it as a normal lubricant just for tests like above

Sorry for the rant I guess it was on another forum someone jumped all over me over Wd 40

And as a spray does it not spray out of the can?

 

[Mbrooks420]

No need to apologize. Forums are made for discussion.

Of course it sprays out of the can.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve run the Lucas synthetic limited slip oil with no additive in all three of my limited slips. My old Mounty has a functional LS at well over 200k miles.

I’m sure mobile 1 is equal or better. For piece of mind, the few dollars for the modifier isn’t really wasted.

 

[imp]

WD-40 is a solvent, which is why it’s good at freeing stuck things. I’d use Kroil.

I think either weight of gear oil would be fine. It gets fairly cold here in the winter and the stock oil weights have always worked for me.

@Mbrooks420
Traditional WD-40 (they may have since changed the formulation, but I still stay away from it) if used several times on the same metallic surface, will leave behind a very sticky, dirt-attracting residue. I learned this by using it on the "ways" and bearing surfaces of my lathe and milling machine in summer, to ward off rusting. Could barely move the damned mill carriage.......imp

 

[Mbrooks420]

@Mbrooks420
Traditional WD-40 (they may have since changed the formulation, but I still stay away from it) if used several times on the same metallic surface, will leave behind a very sticky, dirt-attracting residue. I learned this by using it on the "ways" and bearing surfaces of my lathe and milling machine in summer, to ward off rusting. Could barely move the damned mill carriage.......imp

If they changed the formula, it better be WD-41. It’s good asca metal protectant, and to free things. I think there are better lubes. All the Kroil products I’ve used are top notch. Kroil, the oil that’s like me. It creeps.

 

[imp]

If they changed the formula, it better be WD-41. It’s good asca metal protectant, and to free things. I think there are better lubes. All the Kroil products I’ve used are top notch. Kroil, the oil that’s like me. It creeps.

@Mbrooks420
I've found LPS-2 to be most to my liking. LPS-1, no. Expensive, and not available everywhere, though. imp

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Did I miss a post, or shouldn't we advise the OP to get the balljoints greased if they have the fittings on them? The boots being good suggests newer joints which likely can be greased instead of with spray products to find the culprit.

 

[danno2944]

Did I miss a post, or shouldn't we advise the OP to get the balljoints greased if they have the fittings on them? The boots being good suggests newer joints which likely can be greased instead of with spray products to find the culprit.

No grease fittings, they are original Oem ball joints I believe, I have 287,000 and purchased from original purchaser at 125 000, it is possible that the ball joints were replaced since the original owner had a lot of Maintenance performed? Doubtful...

It's probably about time for it all to get replaced here at some point. It's just one of those things, too old and not worth it to replace it all, so just fix it as it breaks...

I say this having just spent thousands on things that never broke, but just to maintain. like shocks, brakes, aluminum thermostat housing, brakes, engine gasket overhaul, muffler, fuel injector cleaning and on and on,, Now the rear end, filler neck and end links up front.

Was going to replace my endlinks on the rear as well eventually. Would everyone recommend this, the install appears simple....can't find rear sway bushings on rock for the rear oddly enough..

I also just got new fuel filler neck, how likely is it that the rubber hose is done as well? It looks bad and I'm sure clamps won't come off.

Hoping my fuel pump and timing chain continue to party on Through the winter.

Thanks everyone for the replys as well.

 

[swshawaii]

Was going to replace my endlinks on the rear as well eventually. Would everyone recommend this, the install appears simple....can't find rear sway bushings on rock for the rear oddly enough.

Measure rear sway bar frame bushing height before ordering. "Should" be 2 inches.

2" tall
Rear Sway Bar Bushings - 15.875mm | Explorer 1993-2001

1-1/2" tall
Rear Sway Bar-Endlink Bushings - 19 mm | Ford Explorer

 

[danno2944]

Measure rear sway bar frame bushing height before ordering. "Should" be 2 inches.

2" tall
Rear Sway Bar Bushings - 15.875mm | Explorer 1993-2001

1-1/2" tall
Rear Sway Bar-Endlink Bushings - 19 mm | Ford Explorer

Thanks, I was just looking at the fuel pumps on rockauto, any opinions on brands, I was leaning mid grade airtex, but the Economy models are cheap and have ...

 

[swshawaii]

I've been lucky so far, but I'm only at 80k. koda2000 is the person to get advice from since he's changed so many.

IIRC, he swears by the the Bosch pumps for around $60. If he doesn't chime in try PM him or I will for you. GL

 

[swshawaii]

Here's just one thread. CONFIRM fitment BEFORE ordering.
Is it the fuel pump and which one

 

[danno2944]

Thanks again, I'm on the high side of his predicted failure mileage175mile....

So the warning signs of the pump about to fail are, no starts. Which can be tested by Pre priming a few times before starting and also a Loss of power momentarily while driving.

Anything else to watch for? Cold Canadian winter has just arrived and I thought it started a bit weak a few times lately, and starting to hear the whine from the Pre ignition prime pump more as well....hrmmm

 

[danno2944]

Also forgot to mention Since the injectors were cleaned and new fuel filter as well, I may have bought myself some time perhaps.

Any experience with amount of residue in the tank?

So the sock, fuel filter, should also be changed during Job. A new gasket isn't mentioned? It is needed as well correct?

 

[donalds]

My tank was clean inside
My pump replacement was a Carter
....I needed a whole new pump sender......
Bosch is the best from what I have read
My hoses were looking bad on the outside to but we're fine on the inside the clamps were easily broken just buy new ones like five bucks no big deal you can try to spray the clamps with some kind of penetration oil

 

[Mbrooks420]

The tank on my first mounted rusted and leaked. After dropping it, it looked surprisingly clean inside ( it rusted on top of the tank from the salty dirt getting caught up on it). I reused all the hoses I believe. My filler neck rotted out later.

 

[donalds]

Yea I got my filler neck at @1Aauto

 

[danno2944]

Thanks again for the replys.

Did. You uses the original gasket on top of tank to pump flange, or was it reuseable?

My tank was clean inside
My pump replacement was a Carter
....I needed a whole new pump sender......
Bosch is the best from what I have read
My hoses were looking bad on the outside to but we're fine on the inside the clamps were easily broken just buy new ones like five bucks no big deal you can try to spray the clamps with some kind of penetration oil

Why would you need the whole assembly? As opposed to the Bosch replacement?
What kind of penetration oil? Lol, joking.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I don’t recall buying a gasket. It’s possible the tank came with one, though. It’s been almost 10 years.

 

[donalds]

Thanks again for the replys.

Did. You uses the original gasket on top of tank to pump flange, or was it reuseable?



Why would you need the whole assembly? As opposed to the Bosch replacement?
What kind of penetration oil? Lol, joking.

I had a possible bad fuel pressure regulator and did not want to take a chance so I replaced the whole assembly I don't see why you can't reuse the gasket I would put some Vaseline on it to help it seat
And wd41 lmao