Rear shock replacement Advice

[Nexzus]

tldr; Rear right shock has 135K km on it, rear left is brand new. Should I replace RR?

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Hi all,

More of a general maintenance/repair issue, but there's a reason this is the ExplorerForum.

My 2011 Explorer XLT/4WD with 135K km was hit in the driver rear area, with fairly major damage to the drive train and body, while parked 5 weeks ago. It has since been repaired (insurance covered everything) and drives as well as I remember it.

According to the repair manifest, the shop replaced the left rear shock absorber, but not the right rear, as per the insurance company directives. My chief concern is the eventual drivability/stability issues with having a having a RR shock with 135K km on it, and a brand new RL shock.

I can replace it myself, the question is do I need to?

They also replaced that tire, so my RL tire is brand new, and my RR tire has around 30%. That I know I should get replaced, and I was planning on a new set in the fall anyway. So hey, free tire.

Thanks.

PS. This is what $13K in damage looks like caused by a Lancer travelling at unknown speed. They had to replace the rear cross member even, which is apparently an $1800 part.

 

[peterk9]

If it was mine, I would definitely replace the shock and probably the tire as well.

Peter

 

[SHUMAX]

Definitely replace the tire and the shock. No question. The rear is light in comparison to the front. You don't want to have one shock working hard and the other asleep. Same for the tire. Dangerous, if you ask me. You are right - replace it...and the tire.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Word of advice for shock replacement. The nut on the bottom fork is supposedly welded to the fork. Only need to turn the bolt. Others have broken sockets thinking that the nut is not attached to the bottom fork.

Top nut is accessed inside car and should be able to be access by removing cupholder trim and not whole quarter panel.

Top nut torque is 41 ft lbs. Bottom is 129 ft lbs.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/rear-shock-replacement.417479/

 

[1995E]

Word of advice for shock replacement. The nut on the bottom fork is supposedly welded to the fork. Only need to turn the bolt. Others have broken sockets thinking that the nut is not attached to the bottom fork.

Top nut is accessed inside car and should be able to be access by removing cupholder trim and not whole quarter panel.

Top nut torque is 41 ft lbs. Bottom is 129 ft lbs.

Rear Shock Replacement

Thanks for the warning. This help a lot! I was wondering how the heck I was going to get to the top of the shock.

 

[reserved50]

Edited * whoops old post lol