2002 Mountaineer rear shock replacement | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 Mountaineer rear shock replacement

astrotux

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March 12, 2016
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City, State
Billings, MT
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Mountaineer
The rear shocks are completely shot in my stock 02, I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for replacements. I want something higher quality than oem that will not change the ride height.
 



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Are you wanting the whole strut and spring assembly or do you want struts alone and transfer your original springs to them?

For struts only I would go with KYB 341327
http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=341327

RockAuto is having a closeout right now, $40.99 each, normally $67.89 each.


Personally I would replace all 4 struts, new in rear and old in front it's going to ride weird.
 






Are you wanting the whole strut and spring assembly or do you want struts alone and transfer your original springs to them?

For struts only I would go with KYB 341327
http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=341327

RockAuto is having a closeout right now, $40.99 each, normally $67.89 each.


Personally I would replace all 4 struts, new in rear and old in front it's going to ride weird.


Thanks a lot. I am just replacing the struts, the springs should be fine for a while longer. I am only replacing the rear (for now) because of $, but if it rides weird I guess I'll replace the front too. Thanks again for the suggestion and the price was great.
 












no need to do the fronts if they are still fine, just need to do the whole axle if you do one side. The back will probably have a slightly stiffer ride until the shocks get broken in, but with the old springs I doubt you will notice a difference.
 






I kept the factory springs with the 4 new Sensen's I installed and I have to say it's a really hard ride but I do run my tire pressure on the high side.
 






Make sure you get a saw to eliminate the rubber bumpstop in the back. Otherwise, you would not be able to access the bolt to drop the rear strut.
 






Make sure you get a saw to eliminate the rubber bumpstop in the back. Otherwise, you would not be able to access the bolt to drop the rear strut.

Don't know where you get that information but that is very incorrect. I was able to remove and reinstall the bumpstops just fine as they should be.
 






Don't know where you get that information but that is very incorrect. I was able to remove and reinstall the bumpstops just fine as they should be.
How did you access the bolt inside of the rubber? There was no way to fit an adjustable ratcheting wrench in it.
 












by not being lazy and using a standard wrench.

Hmm...that seems to against the laws of physics considering you cannot gain leverage to that nut even with an adjustable ratcheting wrench, let alone a socket. Furthermore, I'm not quite sure why you insist on senselessly deriding other members of this forum when they are just trying to help @astrotux
 






Hmm...that seems to against the laws of physics considering you cannot gain leverage to that nut even with an adjustable ratcheting wrench, let alone a socket. Furthermore, I'm not quite sure why you insist on senselessly deriding other members of this forum when they are just trying to help @astrotux

I am sorry but I am not going to promote cutting off and discarding parts and not replacing them.

Don't need to gain leverage. Get it loose by tapping the wrench with a small hammer.

I am talking about a wrench like this.

19203.jpg


Worked fine for me.
 






I am sorry but I am not going to promote cutting off and discarding parts and not replacing them.

Don't need to gain leverage. Get it loose by tapping the wrench with a small hammer.

I am talking about a wrench like this.
19203.jpg


Worked fine for me.

There is the jounce block/bump stop around one of the nuts I am talking about. Despite my laziness of using an adjustable ratcheting wrench to try and remove the nut, it seems that Ford mechanics resort to cutting it off as well when replacing the rear struts on 3rd gen trucks. Next time you want to call someone out about their laziness or stupidity, please do your hw first.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/6sms...-m-replacing-complete-rear-struts-spring.html
 












some models have those rubber guards which is a PITA since it obstructs access to the bolts while others have metal guards (like mine) so it's easy, an $9 offset ratcheting wrench (a set) from Harbor Freight makes it easier.

https://www.facebook.com/diyfordexp...0528882348605/204206782980814/?type=3&theater

@lincolnshibuya Yeah, for some reason my 2004 did not have two nuts on the outside securing the jounce block, but instead one nut on the inside shielding access from a ratcheting wrench or socket. Want to post a pic from my comp but can't due to needing a link.
 






There is the jounce block/bump stop around one of the nuts I am talking about. Despite my laziness of using an adjustable ratcheting wrench to try and remove the nut, it seems that Ford mechanics resort to cutting it off as well when replacing the rear struts on 3rd gen trucks. Next time you want to call someone out about their laziness or stupidity, please do your hw first.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/6sms...-m-replacing-complete-rear-struts-spring.html

Cutting them off is fine as long as you're going to replace them with new ones.
 






You can cut a chunk out to facilitate removal, and when you have everything buttoned back up glue the chunk back in with rubber cement. No need to discard it. YMMV
 






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