Rear Steel Brake Lines rusted and leaking | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear Steel Brake Lines rusted and leaking

Watchman

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 11, 2013
Messages
219
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19
City, State
Virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer Sport-4WD
My 93 explorer has rusted rear brake lines that are coming out of the little manifold on top of the differential. Has anyone worked on these and is it simply unscrewing them out of the manifold ? Looks like I might have to replace that also. Is there already a thread on this ? Any advice is welcome.

Thanks - John
 



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Unless the threads on the junction are messed up you should be able to re-use it. You can purchase generic line with ends already on them from parts stores, and bend to fit, or you can make them up yourself with the help of a double flaring tool.
 






Hi Rick - Thanks for the reply. If the lines going into the junction box are so badly rusted ... then I take it you cab replace the junction box. Can you also use steel braided lines that are flexible with ends on them ? Is this a possibility ? This is new ground for me.
 






I think it is called a rear axle junction block. It comes with the rubber line ... which I take it will mate to the line coming from the driver's side frame rail. I wonder how that mates up ? Is it an easy attachment or is that mating junction back above/behind the fuel tank ?
 






Hi Rick - Thanks for the reply. If the lines going into the junction box are so badly rusted ... then I take it you cab replace the junction box. Can you also use steel braided lines that are flexible with ends on them ? Is this a possibility ? This is new ground for me.

I had to refresh myself on the system. Here is a link to the rubber hose that goes from the axle to the solid line on the body:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...1119620,brake+&+wheel+hub,hydraulic+hose,1792

This is the one:
RAYBESTOS BH38813 {#4538813} Professional Grade Info
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REAR CENTER

It has the junction built into one end of it.

Don't use steel braided, or rubber lines where solid lines once were. Steel braided is better than standard rubber, but it still expands when you hit the brakes. The more of it that's in the system, the worse the effect becomes.
 






Thank you for the pictures Rick. Your pictures though do not reflect the lines I am replacing. le to work on this. But I am going to have a shop replace these steel lines that go from the rear axle junction block to the rear wheel backing plate connections. My question is this ... Do these lines have standard (SAE) or metric fittings on the ends ? I also measured 36" on LH rear side and 32" on the RH side, so I am buying 40" copper alloy lines which bend easy. The rear axle junction block has a rubber line that connects to the steel line near the rear LH corner of the fuel tank. I am buying this and giving it to the shop just in case there is an issue with the rusted ends going into the old junction block. The shop labor is very reasonable and he asked me to supply the parts. Any comments here or advice is welcomed.
 






check with your state and local authorities as copper alloy line may not be a suitable replacement for steel line. i used standard 3/16 steel line with standard fittings to do All brake lines on my 92. i picked up a 25 ft roll at the local parts store. the m/c may have adapter fittings but everything else should be standard. 3/8 fittings iirc. best part about doing your own lines is you don't have to follow factory routing.
 






The shop installed the lines .... no issues for using copper alloy. It was a tough job due to the rust. But it is now finished and I'm calling this issue solved.:)
 






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