Rear tie rod/toe link question

[shane10]

Hi all, i've been having a bit of a shake/wobble around turns and at highway speeds. After some investigation i found the rear wheels were loose (tire wobbled at 3 and 9 position).
My first thought was tie rod, only the outer boot seemed to be loose. After further research I came to find it is called the toe link.
I'm in a bit of a time crunch so I decided to just pay a bit more upfront and grab the part from my local dealer, when searching for the part online, I could not find anything resembling or called the toe link.
It looks like a tie rod, with a balljoint threaded on to each end of a rod, but is in the rear.
Any help/confirmation of the part would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[shane10]

On fordparts the closest thing i found, which i believe to be my part, is called the lateral link, for a low price of 253.00. They don't seem to sell just the outer ball joint, only available as a whole unit, inner, outer, and rod. With two sizes, 15mm and 17mm depending on build date.
I have searched around the forums and am still a bit clueless here.
I will call the dealership tomorrow and try to confirm my part, although I have not had great luck with their expertise in the past, hopefully can find it cheaper elsewhere.
Any input still appreciated

 

[TechGuru]

Dorman 523-007 Trailing Arm
$38.88 Amazon product ASIN B00902FQN0$31.99 More Information for DORMAN 523007
OEM Part Number: 2L2Z5A972AA From 3/4/2002 | 1L2Z5A972AB To 3/4/2002

You'll need to cut the head off the grease plug if you have 16" wheels. Cutoff wheel on a dremel works best, grinder is probably ok too.

Moog has the ends by themselves but they are just as expensive as the entire Dorman unit.

 

[shane10]

Dorman 523-007 Trailing Arm
$38.88 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00902FQN0/
$31.99 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3861093
OEM Part Number: 2L2Z5A972AA From 3/4/2002 | 1L2Z5A972AB To 3/4/2002

You'll need to cut the head off the grease plug if you have 16" wheels. Cutoff wheel on a dremel works best, grinder is probably ok too.

Moog has the ends by themselves but they are just as expensive as the entire Dorman unit.

Thanks for the quick reply, i feel like you've been the first to reply on other posts of mine too.
Do you know why the discrepancy in names? trailing arm, tie rod, toe link...?
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=cQV1vVJF8eoDgaBrO3bbGw==&id=357576153&m=2&search=true&year=2002&make=Ford&model=Explorer
Either of these the right part from fordparts? Decided not to go with them to avoid 500-1000 repair....
I will need to find the part at a local store, I think napa might have them, i've got about 2 days to get the part and repair done before I leave for a big road trip.
Thanks again

EDIT: First link doesn't show up for whatever reason, it's called a trailing arm on fordparts, 493.00 for one side.

EDIT EDIT: When looking for this part at a store, what should I be looking for, toe link? Tie rod? My main confusion is how many names this one part has, thanks

 

[shane10]

Dorman 523-007 Trailing Arm
$38.88 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00902FQN0/
$31.99 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3861093
OEM Part Number: 2L2Z5A972AA From 3/4/2002 | 1L2Z5A972AB To 3/4/2002

You'll need to cut the head off the grease plug if you have 16" wheels. Cutoff wheel on a dremel works best, grinder is probably ok too.

Moog has the ends by themselves but they are just as expensive as the entire Dorman unit.

My apologies on the confusion, I found the dorman unit you suggested at oreillys for 40$ a side. From the picture it doesn't look like it has a zerk/grease fitting, if it does, will i have to completely remove it? Or just cut the end/tip off?
Any idea if they're pre-greased or should i grease before installation
Thanks!

 

[rocco123]

I agree with tech guru. Got a dorman for both sides on my 02 and replaced the grease firing with screws I cut down. Fittings hit inside of steel rims.

 

[TechGuru]

Don't go by "names" at parts stores, go by part numbers.

My apologies on the confusion, I found the dorman unit you suggested at oreillys for 40$ a side. From the picture it doesn't look like it has a zerk/grease fitting, if it does, will i have to completely remove it? Or just cut the end/tip off?
Any idea if they're pre-greased or should i grease before installation
Thanks!

That is because you are looking at the pre 3/4/2002 model. It does not have that plug sticking out. Is the manufacture date on your door tag 3/4/2002 or before? If yes you got lucky, you don't have to deal with the plug AND your part is cheaper.

Just to clarify:
To 3/4/2002 | http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/523007.oap | $40.99
From 3/4/2002 | http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/523009.oap | $71.99

Looks like NAPA has the From 3/4/2002 model for $39.60
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCQ2607460/NCQ2607460_0207927263

They are sealed at the factory and ready to install.

 

[shane10]

Don't go by "names" at parts stores, go by part numbers.



That is because you are looking at the pre 3/4/2002 model. It does not have that plug sticking out. Is the manufacture date on your door tag 3/4/2002 or before? If yes you got lucky, you don't have to deal with the plug AND your part is cheaper.

Just to clarify:
To 3/4/2002 | http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/523007.oap | $40.99
From 3/4/2002 | http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/523009.oap | $71.99

Looks like NAPA has the From 3/4/2002 model for $39.60
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCQ2607460/NCQ2607460_0207927263

They are sealed at the factory and ready to install.

Thanks I figured it out today, had to drive to two different oreillys to get the parts. Went with the Dorman's, look of decent quality. My build date is 07/01 so I did luck out indeed.
One question before i get them in. The inner bushing/balljoint, closest to center of vehicle, is threaded, but it's impossible to move, i put the clamp and vice grips on them and nothing. The outer end is threaded as well, and moves very easily.
If i get them as close as possible to the same length as they are now, will it matter if the inner threading only has 1-2 threads, and the outer has 10-15 however many exposed? Thanks.
I will be getting an alignment tomorrow so hopefully they'll fix any mistake which is bound to happen

 

[shane10]

I like to confuse myself sometimes, I was confusing the inner end with the outer end on my new parts
Figured it out should have them in within 30. Thanks for all the help!

 

[TechGuru]

Personally since you have to get a alignment anyway I would ask them how much they would charge to install them, I can't imagine very much.

 

[shane10]

Don't go by "names" at parts stores, go by part numbers.



That is because you are looking at the pre 3/4/2002 model. It does not have that plug sticking out. Is the manufacture date on your door tag 3/4/2002 or before? If yes you got lucky, you don't have to deal with the plug AND your part is cheaper.

Just to clarify:
To 3/4/2002 | http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/523007.oap | $40.99
From 3/4/2002 | http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/523009.oap | $71.99

Looks like NAPA has the From 3/4/2002 model for $39.60
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCQ2607460/NCQ2607460_0207927263

They are sealed at the factory and ready to install.

Extremely frustrated. Got the right side in no problems, took a bit of work to get the outer ball joint out.
Got the left side out no problem, ball joint slid out with no effort. Upon further investigation, the ball joint stud was missing a big chunk, along with a chunk missing from the part the stud slides into. like bad corrosion but no rust. most likely rubbing/friction. It also appears to be a 17mm, not a 15mm like the other side. When i slide my new part in, there's room on all sides...
WTF!!!!
No idea how this could have happened. One side is 15mm stud the other a 17mm corroded to hell stud.
I thought about just getting a 17mm stud toe link, but I feel i run a risk of the same thing happening, since the outer ball joint housing is missing metal and not the diameter it should be.
Any idea what the part is called? That houses the outer ball joint stud? Will the entire assembly have to be replaced?
To make matters worse I was planning on driving cross country in 3 days.
Any more help than what was already given SERIOUSLY appreciated.
Thanks

 

[shane10]

Personally since you have to get a alignment anyway I would ask them how much they would charge to install them, I can't imagine very much.

Too much, it is a simple two bolt out two bolt in install, I have done worse. Plus the alignment is free I have a 3 year plan.
Please read new post, thanks.

 

[shane10]

Looks like the entire rear left knuckle will have to be replaced if I want the correct 15mm stud toe link to go in, what an absolute pain in the ass. Have proof of the idiot that did this, but it is a major chain, and was done 1.5 years ago, so a free repair is out the window.
Pull the entire knuckle assembly apart? remove bearing, re-press bearing, and reassemble or test my luck with a new 17mm (wrong part). Like I said my only worry is the stud housing is not it's original shape, and will most likely cause further damage and ruin the new stud.
This one really drove the point of doing my own repairs home.
Thanks.

 

[TechGuru]

So it sounds like you have the Pre 3/4/2002 on one side and the From 3/4/2002 on the other side? Quickest way is to just buy the one that fits because if you're going to remove the hubs for any reason might as well replace the wheel bearings and I don't think you are going to find that part anywhere but Ford or a salvage yard. The one that's the wrong size for your build date must have come from a salvage yard to be corroded.

 

[shane10]

So it sounds like you have the Pre 3/4/2002 on one side and the From 3/4/2002 on the other side? Quickest way is to just buy the one that fits because if you're going to remove the hubs for any reason might as well replace the wheel bearings and I don't think you are going to find that part anywhere but Ford or a salvage yard. The one that's the wrong size for your build date must have come from a salvage yard to be corroded.

Correct, the only difference in years is pre 3/4 is is a 15mm ball joint stud, from 3/4 is a 17mm.
That's what I was thinking, I have a feeling it will fail prematurely and the hub/knuckle will have to be replaced eventually, but if that's the case i'd rather go with the quick inexpensive route now and deal with it later if it comes up.
Here's the thing, I had work done, with receipt, at tires minus . The work done was replaced ONLY left inner toe link, the entire toe link was clearly replaced with a DORMAN from 3/4/02 assembly. I have been told many times by these great folks they will only use and install genuine OEM ford parts FROM ford, dorman is not. The fact they put on the receipt saying they only repaired the inner toe link, and went ahead and replaced the whole thing, kind of raised a flag. Not to mention the 160.00 labor for a 20 minute job

And it's not corrosion as in rust, it looks as if the stud was end link stud was bouncing around in the knuckle/hub and was rubbing metal away. Most likely from an improper install/torque.
I've had the truck for almost 7 years now, so it's possible the wrong part DID come from a salvage yard before I got it, but who knows.

But as I said i'll just get the 17mm from 3/4/02 and hope for the best.
Thanks

 

[TechGuru]

Since you know you'll need to replace the knuckle in the future you could weld the stud in if there is no other way to get it tight.

 

[shane10]

Since you know you'll need to replace the knuckle in the future you could weld the stud in if there is no other way to get it tight.

That's a good idea, there is still a bit of room on the flange to tighten down, i'll see how it feels.
I got the dorman 17mm part, for anyone interested, they have learned and gotten rid of the grease zerk, it is now a fully sealed unit so no worries on cutting/fitting the bolt to avoid hitting the inner wheel.
Thanks!

 

[TechGuru]

That's a good idea, there is still a bit of room on the flange to tighten down, i'll see how it feels.
I got the dorman 17mm part, for anyone interested, they have learned and gotten rid of the grease zerk, it is now a fully sealed unit so no worries on cutting/fitting the bolt to avoid hitting the inner wheel.
Thanks!

Nice but I think I am going to get the NAPA ones for my 2003. Cheaper and possibly better than Dorman.

 

[ExplorerRider]

I agree with tech guru. Got a dorman for both sides on my 02 and replaced the grease firing with screws I cut down. Fittings hit inside of steel rims.

I know the thread is very old, but is there no way to get the part designed for the 16 inch wheel trucks, which is what I have?

 

[TechGuru]

I know the thread is very old, but is there no way to get the part designed for the 16 inch wheel trucks, which is what I have?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6117045

These were not available back in 2016.