Rear Wiper Not Working (yes I searched, but n00b to car repairs and need help :-( )

[Edvard_Grieg]

I know there are lots of threads out there regarding Rear Wiper issues, but I was hoping to get some additional detailed guidance.

I've never really done much with repairing my car as most of it honestly just seems too daunting for me.

However, when my rear wiper stopped working, it seemed like a good candidate for a small 'starter' project as it seems relatively straightforward.

I've had some issues with the wiper for awhile now, at first it was more alignment and it not hitting the windshield correctly, or the wiper blade getting stuck between the rear door and the rear window (and thus not wiping).

However, at this point, it has stopped altogether, even when it was 'stuck' before, I could still hear the motor attempting to move it- now, I don't hear any noise at all.

I did some cursory tinkering to see if there was anything blatantly obvious (disconnected cables etc) and did not see anything.

I've read some of the threads out here and its prompted a few questions (if you know another thread that has the specific answer please let me know that too):

- Since the motor isn't making any noise, is it possible it's one of the fuses? If so, how do I tell when a cartridge fuse is blown? I tried looking at one and didn't see anything that 'stuck out' like the smaller plastic ones. (also, do I have to disconnect the battery for these, or is it relatively safe just yanking them?) Can I swap fuses to test? Is that a good practice?

- If I do need to replace the motor, where should I get it? What model would I need? About how much should I be paying if I 'shop around'? I saw some prices ranging from $35 to $115 in the various threads.

- In the threads I saw some off-hand remarks to replacing the wiper arm, with what I suppose is something 'better'- Which arm is that? Where do I get it? How much does it cost?

- During the process of trying to get to the motor and taking off the inner plastic molding of the rear door, I accidentally snapped one of the big plastic tabs- I know this isn't a 'huge' deal, but that piece also had quite a few scrapes etc, where could I get a new one? About how much should I expect to pay?


Thank you in advance for any and all help!

 

[sjr033]

I had my rear wiper go bad on my '01 sport. I had the same kind of things happen as you. I cound hear the motor work but no movement. I went to the junk yard. The great thing is it is the same motor that all the 2nd Gen use. So it is plug and play. In fact is was the first thing I did to my Explorer. I paid something like $25-30 and I bought a 99 year (yes 99 like 1 less than 100) warranty for $10. So if it ever goes out again I get one for free. Some one correct me if I am wrong, but I think there is a plastic gear that connects the motor to the output shaft that breaks. It is hard to tell beacuse it is all one sealed piece.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I believe the fuse for the rear wiper is #27. If you look it should be easy to tell if it's bad. No need to disconnect the battery, just pull them out. A rear wiper motor should run around $40-50.

 

[briwayjones]

It sounds like since the arm got stuck and you no longer hear the motor that it might be burned out. I would check the fuse first. I believe that after turning in my old motor that a rebuilt one (which is about all you can find) from Advanced Auto Parts cost me about $25.

 

[TheJackal]

Mine just went out completely last Monday. Mine is definitely getting power, you can hear a little sound back there, but the wiper doesn't move. It has needed a little bit of help getting started at some points over the past few months, so I had a feeling it was coming.

Since you aren't hearing anything back there, of course the first step is to check the fuses. There are also some relays associated with the rear wiper, so if the fuse is good, I'd check and make sure the relays are working OK first as they're in the CJB and easy to get to.

Not trying to hijack this thread but, could we get some tips for removing the door panel off of the liftgate? I see the OP had some difficulty removing it, and the information I've found isn't very descriptive so I'm not sure. Does it just pull out, or do you push it up?

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

Thank you everyone!

With regards to the fuses...I didn't find any fuses relating to the Rear Wiper in the panel by the driver door, but I did find the ones in the distribution box.

For the ones in the distribution box, how do I tell if it's blown? The cartridge fuse has black plastic all around it, and then just the 'plug like' leads coming out the head....what should I be looking for to tell if it's blown?

Is there a specific part number for the motor?

What about the rear wiper arm?

Thanks!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think what you are looking at are relays, not fuses.

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

^^ You're correct


So Update:

I stopped by Advance Auto Parts on the way home, and first those guys rock, I just started talking with the guy about the issue and he was like "Let's go look at it!" so we're digging through the fuses, he has me take off the back panel and we're checking voltages, and he even grabs one of the motors (since he has it in stock), and we try just connecting the power....


no dice Using the voltmeter, he was only registering 10V on the circuit when it appears to need 12V. His theory was that it was potentially a problematic 'switch' and that I might need to go to Ford for that part.

What do you all think? Does that make sense? What else could it be? What else should I check?

Thanks!

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

Any ideas?

 

[TheJackal]

The power comes from Fuse #8 in the Battery Junction Box (Fuse 8 under the hood). It is then delivered to the motor via either the Up or Down Relays which are also in the same junction box. The switch wouldn't be the problem.

You might want to look and make sure there isn't any corrosion in the sockets for the fuse and relays that could be building up resistance.

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

The power comes from Fuse #8 in the Battery Junction Box (Fuse 8 under the hood). It is then delivered to the motor via either the Up or Down Relays which are also in the same junction box. The switch wouldn't be the problem.

You might want to look and make sure there isn't any corrosion in the sockets for the fuse and relays that could be building up resistance.

Thank you! I'll take a look soon and report back....at Advance Auto Parts we swapped the relays around with the same effect so it seems doubtful that is the issue. I'll check Fuse 8 though. I'm guessing that it's also possible that it could be that it's not getting enough power back there, and that the motor is possibly dead too?

Is there a different wiper arm to look at, or is it just the normal replacement one?

Thanks!

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

The power comes from Fuse #8 in the Battery Junction Box (Fuse 8 under the hood). It is then delivered to the motor via either the Up or Down Relays which are also in the same junction box. The switch wouldn't be the problem.

You might want to look and make sure there isn't any corrosion in the sockets for the fuse and relays that could be building up resistance.

I just took a look...there is no #8 Fuse in the Battery Junction box...the manual lists it as 'not uses' as well. Do you know what the name/description of the fuse is so I can cross-reference for a different number etc?

Thanks!

 

[gijoecam]

If you hit the wash button for the rear, and pump squirts fluid but the wiper doesn't move, it's not the button. It is likely either the fuse, the relay, or the motor.

The easiest place to begin troubleshooting is at the fuse box. If the fuse isn't blown, then move on to the motor end. With the switch set to high, check for alternating power to the two pins (forget the colors offhand). Check for continuity to ground as well. When one relay is sending power, the other acts as a ground path. If one of the two relays isn't grounding or isn't sending power, it could be the relay.

The easiest way I've found to check it is to connect a 12V test light to one of the two power pins in teh connector. Then with the switch set to high, touch the probe to the other power pin. You should see the bulb come on constant except for an ever-so-slight flicker when it changes directions. If you use a digital multimeter, you should see an alternating +/- 12V or there abouts.

If you only get the light half the time, then you have a bad relay. Then we would need to check to see if it's a bad power or bad ground source we're getting from the relay... easy to check, but takes some more explaining.

If we have power and ground both up and down, then we know it's a bad motor. It's only a nut and 5 bolts to get it apart from there. I've got the swap down to under 10 minutes including grabbing the tools from the garage.

-Joe

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

If you hit the wash button for the rear, and pump squirts fluid but the wiper doesn't move, it's not the button. It is likely either the fuse, the relay, or the motor.

The easiest place to begin troubleshooting is at the fuse box. If the fuse isn't blown, then move on to the motor end. With the switch set to high, check for alternating power to the two pins (forget the colors offhand). Check for continuity to ground as well. When one relay is sending power, the other acts as a ground path. If one of the two relays isn't grounding or isn't sending power, it could be the relay.

The easiest way I've found to check it is to connect a 12V test light to one of the two power pins in teh connector. Then with the switch set to high, touch the probe to the other power pin. You should see the bulb come on constant except for an ever-so-slight flicker when it changes directions. If you use a digital multimeter, you should see an alternating +/- 12V or there abouts.

If you only get the light half the time, then you have a bad relay. Then we would need to check to see if it's a bad power or bad ground source we're getting from the relay... easy to check, but takes some more explaining.

If we have power and ground both up and down, then we know it's a bad motor. It's only a nut and 5 bolts to get it apart from there. I've got the swap down to under 10 minutes including grabbing the tools from the garage.

-Joe

Thanks Joe

If the wiper fluid does not work, does that mean it is the switch? Where would I get a replacement?

Thanks!

 

[briwayjones]

The easiest place to get a replacement is probably Ebay. You'll probably have to buy the whole bezel to get the switch.

You know, I might have an extra one actually I'll look when I get home from work.

 

[gijoecam]

I would not replace the switch without further troubleshooting it to ensure the part is, in fact, bad.

The switch sends the wash signal to the GEM. The GEM then triggers the rear wash relay for the washer fluid pump, and the wiper motor relay(s). If the washer squirts, then we know the signal is going from the switch to the GEM, and can rule it out as a cause of the wiper not working. If you hit the button and it does not squirt, yes, it *may* be a bad switch, or it could be a broken wire, or a bad GEM or bad relay(s), bad pump, or any number of other wiring issues that are just as likely as a bad switch.

So, as I said, I would first test the switch before replacing it.

-Joe

 

[TheJackal]

I just took a look...there is no #8 Fuse in the Battery Junction box...the manual lists it as 'not uses' as well. Do you know what the name/description of the fuse is so I can cross-reference for a different number etc?

Thanks!

Sorry, I based that information from a '99. Best I can say is to look in your owner's manual and see if it mentions the rear wiper anywhere. I know in mine there is also 2 relays in that box as well that control the rear wiper. Your mileage may vary.

I'm sure someone else here has an '01 and knows where that fuse is.......

 

[gijoecam]

The switch is fed from Fuse 12 (7.5A) in the central junction box. The motor relays are fed from Fuse #8 (15A) in the battery junction box (under the hood).

-Joe

 

[Edvard_Grieg]

The switch is fed from Fuse 12 (7.5A) in the central junction box. The motor relays are fed from Fuse #8 (15A) in the battery junction box (under the hood).

-Joe

Fuse 8 in the BJB does not exist though, and is listed as not used in the manual....do you know the description so I can check for it in another place?

 

[gijoecam]

'01 Sport is different than the 4 door... Let me check in the morning...

-Joe