Reference: Auxiliary Reverse Lights..Auto-Off-On Schematic

[Fischer]

This is just for reference for people that want to wire up Auxiliary Reverse Lights which can do the following...
1. On
2. Off
3. Automatic in Reverse

 

[Fischer]

Well I should have these suckers installed tonight. Let me tell you....making your own wiring harness is a BIG PITA. I'll post some pics later when I am finished.

Late.

 

[Fischer]

Done Finally!!! Here are some pics. They are optional to be On while ignition is on, or Off all the time or On with reverse. Good as long as the relay doesn't stick and leave the lights on all day.

 

[Fischer]

Lights On...

 

[Fischer]

I am going to mount them under the wing as I didn't know the angles at first. But now they will be under the wing to protect them from branches and such.

Cheers and good luck!! Mail me with questions.

 

[Fischer]

NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGED OR DEAD THINGS. PLEASE READ FULLY AND BE AWARE OF COMMON RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH HOT IRONS AS WELL AS ELECTRICITY AND SHARP ITEMS. USE EYE PROTECTION AND COMMONSENSE IN GENERAL.

THIS SETUP IS TESTED FOR 2x55W LIGHTS ONLY...

I had better put some instructions here so they are all in one spot...Here goes...

You can make your own wiring harness (like I did) which is not fun. Or get a nice one at the store that will carry at least 55W per light, store bought will need some additional modifying.

Tools Needed:
--Current Indicator (spilke with little light and grond cord)
--Soldering Iron
--Solder
--Dykes
--Drill
--1/4in Bit
--1/2+ Bit
--Silicone
--Chiltons Manual (for wiring schematic)
--Box Cutter

Parts Needed:
--Assorted sizes and lengths of shrink wrap
--1 Relay
--Lights of choise (I used clear fog lights-el cheapo)
--Plastic Conduit (for protecting wires "Conduct Tight")
--~12 feet of 8 or less gauge wiring
--Roll of 12 gauge wire
--gauge of 16 guage wire
--3 way switch (On-Off-On)
--2 fuse holders (1 for 8 guage wire, 1 for 16 guage to switch)
--Some sort of power 'grid' thing for attaching multiple wires to 1 Lead
--Di-Electric Grease

----Quick Description of wiring----
--8 Guage runs from battery through fuse to rear wiper reservoir compartment. Connect to power grid and silicone in place where it won't ground or spark. This is the area where all the magic will happen.
--From there you will need to tap into the + of the existing reverse lights with 12 or 16 guage wire. Run through 3amp fuse. This
----Procedure----(It's been a while so bear with me)
After you either make or purchase a wiring harness (refer to above wiring layout to see what you will need)


1. Disconnect Battery! Run 8 Guage wire from battery (fuse it somewhere to prevent melting, however many amps you feel you need, 15 or 20) to the rear compartment. You can run it along the threshold of the drivers side door and rear seat under the plastic into the rear wiper reservoir area. (This is what the Relay will draw power from for the lights).

a. Solder end to distribution panel, this way you can add things like a power outlet (blender) later from the 8 guage feed.
b. If you do not have any plans for the extra power conveinience I would suggest shrink wrapping over the distributoin area to prevent accidental arcing...

2. Reconnect Battery! Remove left rear tail light and tap/splice into the + reverse light line with the 8 or 12 guage wire and attach 2 or 3 amp fuse (this only needs a little bit of current, will not affect brightness of light or blow fuse). May have to turn key to ACC and put in reverse to find + wire)...This is how the relay knows (if switch position is in auto to come on when in Reverse) you are in reverse. THIS IS THE WIRE YOU WILL NEED TO RUN BACK TO THE FRONT TO THE SWITCH. Make this wire long enough to reach whereever it is you want the switch. LONG...

3. Locate where to put 3 way switch. I used a small switch from Radio Shack (only one they had) as it does not need to carry much current. Only enough to activate the relay. You may want to prewire this and leave slack wire hanging for ease of soldering. You only need 16 to 12 Guage wire for this...
a. Route the + extension from the reverse light into one of the "ON" positions on the switch. (You're not done with the switch yet)

4. Open the fuse box. Refer to Chiltons (as I forgot) and find a "Hot with Ignition" wire. I'm not even going to elude to what color it is as I forgot. (If possible I will edit later). This is the wire that will prevent you from "accidentially leaving them on, even in the MANUAL ON position". Breath deep and cut that wire.
a. Splice and solder in a 12 guage wire long enough to route to the other "ON" positoin on the switch.

5. Almost done with the switch. Now that you have your + from the reverse light, your + from the fuse box you will need to solder on a long 16 guage wire to the "OFF" positon on the switch. Run this "OFF" position wire back to the relay (located in reservior compartment) and solder and shrink wrap on the "86"
positoin on the relay.

6. Wiring up the relay. You should have the "OFF" from the switch in front wired to "86".
a. Run a 8 or 12 guage wire from the "power distribution" and solder and shrink that onto the "30" tab of the relay.
b. Run a ground wire from "30" to the body with a screw. Or make a 8 guage Ground Distributoin area same as the power.
c. 87 and 87a are both POWER from Relay. These leave for now.

7. Drill a 1/2+in hole adjacent to the hatch through the body, effectively connecting the area left of the hatch and just above the latch with the void space behind the taillight. This is where you will run the wires from the relay through the wiper fill tube hole (may want to drill another hole) through the hole you just drilled up the inside of the hatch to the lights...Insulate wires with conduit and carefully shove them through the holes.

8. Run 12 guage wire from 87 and if you like 87a to the + leads on the lights. Place in conduit around all 'exposed to the elements wires, especially around portal holes.
a. Run ground from negative on lights back to ground point.
a. Silicone the holes to prevent rusting and water entering forbidden places.
b. Run conduit the entire length of exposed to the elements wiring. Silicone works well to hold the wiring to the inside of the hatch jam.

Still with me? lol


9. Mount lights to where you want them.
a. Nearing the moment of truth......
Tripple check wiring and soldering. Make sure fuse box is in good working order and mounted again. Make sure all fuses are in check and grounds complete. Battery Connected, etc...

10. Testing lights.
a. Turn on Key to ACC or ON---Flip switch to MANUAL ON---Lights should come on. Turn Key to OFF and lights should magically turn off automatically.
b. Turn truck on and select switch to AUTO ON---place shifter IN REVERSE. Lights should come on. Put in N and lights should turn off.


Pat yourself on the back for completing a very neat and extremely painstaking job!!! Enjoy.

USE RESPONSIBLY AS THEY WILL BLIND PEOPLE BEHIND YOU.