Reinstalling upper ball joint

[358R]

Just got my new driver side upper control arm back in. Now I'm trying to mate the upper and lower at the knuckle. All the tips I've seen suggest to just place the jack under the lower control arm and jack it up until they're close then use a rubber hammer to get it the rest of the way.

So, a few things: when I try to jack the lower control arm, the whole driver's side starts lifting up and not just the control arm. Also, I don't have a clear understanding of where exactly under the control arm to start jacking (which may be part of my problem). It also starts lifting off the driver side jack stand that I have in place under the cross member (which makes me nervous). Is this safe and/or normal? or am I doing something wrong?

'99 Mounty 5.0

 

[Stick4503]

Be carefull not to jack the vehicle off your jack stand, this should make you very nervous. To jack the lower arm place your jack as far out to the end as possible. Also your upper arm is stiff in place by new bushings, pull down on that arm first and get it to move down. Once you get the top and bottom to line up with the holes get your upper bolt partly in place and tap on the upper arm while pushing in on the bolt. Keep it on the jack stands at all cost. Hope this helps

 

[358R]

Be carefull not to jack the vehicle off your jack stand, this should make you very nervous. To jack the lower arm place your jack as far out to the end as possible. Also your upper arm is stiff in place by new bushings, pull down on that arm first and get it to move down. Once you get the top and bottom to line up with the holes get your upper bolt partly in place and tap on the upper arm while pushing in on the bolt. Keep it on the jack stands at all cost. Hope this helps

Moving the jack outwards more did the trick. Thanks man. I can now add "can replace upper ball joints and a arms" to my résumé.

 

[Stick4503]

Glad to help. This site has been so beneficial to me.

 

[358R]

Glad to help. This site has been so beneficial to me.

While I have your attention, do you have an idea why my front end(presumably the ball joint I just replaced) would be popping during turns now? Break in? I greased it and some is coming out the side (overflow i guess). If it helps, the lower ball joint is shot too.

 

[Stick4503]

I'm not sure. Could be that the grease is not spread around completely but it should not take long. You really should have changed that lower joint while you were in there. Also it is recommended that you have an alignment anytime you change that arm.

 

[358R]

I'm not sure. Could be that the grease is not spread around completely but it should not take long. You really should have changed that lower joint while you were in there. Also it is recommended that you have an alignment anytime you change that arm.

Yea, I'm going to get an alignment and change the lower ball joint. I'm just trying to do the ball joints myself and not have to spend $1000 for labor.

 

[Stick4503]

Definitely. Lowers are not that hard. You can rent a tool at Autozone to press the lowers out and back in. Lower arm stays in place. Tool will cost near $200.00 but if you return it inside the window of time, unlike myself, you will get your money back.

 

[358R]

This is more for information than asking for more advice as I've not had a chance to replace the lower ball joint. The noise appears to only happen when I go through a turn fast enough to make the vehicle roll or lean into the corner. I will attempt to keep the thread updated in the hopes it helps someone at some point in the future.

 

[manimal]

Probably sway bar bushings.

However if you were that far into the suspension to change out UCAs, you really should have done the lower joints. They're an extra 30 mins per side at best, and go in easily using the jack & smack trick - you insert the new joint into the LCA, place a jack under it using a collar from a ball joint kit, and then smack the top of the LCA while the jack is putting pressure on the joint & collar. It will walk itself into the LCA quickly.

While you are there it's also a good idea to do the tie rod ends. All this stuff is so cheap, there's no reason not to do it, and ride & safety greatly improved.

 

[Afrojoe]

You should be able to inspect your sway bar bushings with ease so I'd definitely check that. It'd could also be a broken sway bar link, but you should be able to hear that with sizable bumps. If you go to replace sway bar bushings I'd get polyurethane or thermoplastic (I bought Moog Thermoplastic ones for about 15 dollars) and go ahead and replace the swaybar link bushings. The polyurethanes should be stiffer (less body roll) and last longer than rubber ones, but you do have to grease them for the sway bar. In my opinion replacing bushings in a Gen 2 is both preventive maintained and perfomance enhancement, although the gain may be minimal.

 

[358R]

Ok, trying to do the lower ball joint today. Did not disconnect the tie rod because it looked like it had enough play to allow me to get the spindle off. But, even with the pry tool, I can't get it loose. Should I disconnect the tie rod? Or am I doing something wrong? Any tips/tricks?

 

[358R]

Scratch that, removed the tie rod. Still won't let go.

 

[358R]

They're an extra 30 mins per side at best

Wrong! Lol.

 

[Stick4503]

What won't come off. The knuckle at the joint?

 

[358R]

What won't come off. The knuckle at the joint?

The piece that's held in place by the castle nut on the bottom of the lower ball joint. I call it the spindle. I don't know the proper name.

 

[Afrojoe]

I don't remember prying anything off after removing the castle nut but I may have just forgot. I think I just had to take the castle nut off and press them out.

Edit. Nevermind I remember the process. But it didn't give me any trouble so I can't really help. Have you tried your BFH?

 

[Blk2kXLT]

You're screwed. I had the same issue due to massive rust on my explorer. I did ever other piece of the suspension but could not for the life of me get the steering knuckle to separate from the lower ball joint.

I didn't attempt it, but conceivably you could try to press out the ball joint then take the knuckle to a shop?

I chose not to thrash the lower ball joint and left it since rubber looked good.

 

[358R]

You're screwed.

Lol, thanks. But this ends today.

 

[Blk2kXLT]

Just trying to save you a few hours I lost trying to do the same. Let me know what works, I did suggest a few things...