Removing AC Compress Under Pressure?

[e200e]

Hey guys I'm working on replacing my head gaskets on my 96 ford explorer xlt 4.0 v6 ohv and I'm removing the AC compressor to get it out of the way to get to the headgaskets. I've removed the 4 bolts holding it in and there is 1 bolt in the back holding the refrigerant lines. I broke it loose and it started hissing pressure so I tightened it back up. I know it says in the haynes manual to get the system de-pressurized at the dealer. I took a bunch of the car apart already and I really don't want to take it to the dealer. So I guess my question is how harmful or dangerous is it going to be for me to de-pressurize this myself and is my AC going to be smoked if I do. If anyone could drop me a line I would be really grateful.

 

[masospaghetti]

First off, disclaimer: it's illegal to vent refrigerant into the air.

That being said, you can just push the schrader valve in on the a/c service port (high or low, it doesn't matter, when the compressor isn't running the entire system is at the same pressure). The refrigerant will bleed off. Just make sure you are in a well ventilated area because the R-134a is toxic at high concentrations.

When you put it back together, you would be wise to change the accumulator/dryer since you've introduced moisture into the system by opening it up. An accumulator is not a difficult change and its a cheap part (~$30).

 

[e200e]

Thank you Spaghetti

 

[lobo411]

Hey guys I'm working on replacing my head gaskets on my 96 ford explorer xlt 4.0 v6 ohv and I'm removing the AC compressor to get it out of the way to get to the headgaskets.

It's a bit late now, but you don't need to...and you shouldn't...disconnect ANYTHING from the A/C system to do the head gaskets. All you need to do is pull the 4 bolts holing the compressor assembly to the engine. Then tie a rope around the compressor housing, pull the compressor out of the way, and tie the rope to anything you can find that will support the weight to keep it out of the way (I tied it to a nearby tree trunk). The beauty of rear-wheel drive is that you have acres of room to work.

If it were me, I'd gamble that since the system was under pressure when I loosened the A/C line, it's more likely that refrigerant got OUT rather than air/moisture got IN. Keep your lines attached, do your head gasket job, and put it all back together, and leave the A/C system the heck alone. If you have A/C trouble later, you'll know why and you can deal with it then. For now, don't make it any worse, and just focus on getting your car back up and running.

 

[rb142]

96 is probably R12 not R134a. If so, it will be even more expensive to recharge. You will probably get a leak from a damaged seal where you broke it loose. Leave the gas lines together and just move the whole thing out of the way. If you are lucky, you didn't lose too much and won't create any leaks.

 

[bill06447]

+1 Maybe it will help the next person....to remove the head you should be able to move the compressor far enough out of the way without disconnecting anything. Same with the power steering pump.

All the second generation trucks use R134 refrigerant but if all of it leaked out you'll have to replace the receiver/dryer as well.

Bill

 

[e200e]

I will try to tie it away other than that I just have the EGR to remove and PS pump I should probably move and I can start getting at the valve covers. Thanks again guys.

 

[koda2000]

'96 should be R134A, not R12. if i'm remembering correctly, '95 was the change-over year to R134A.

 

[jterry211]

I recently replaced the head gaskets on my OHV and you can just push it off to the side and rope it to the hood hinge to hold it out of the way. Also depending on how much freon you lost you may have to vacuum down the system again to add more freon. Harbor Freight vacuum pump and guages are a cheap investment and have paid for themselves many times over in the hot TX summers. Also if it all leaked out you dont need to replace anything just vacuum it down make sure it hold said vacuum and add freon.