removing & replacing lower control arm

[sethsport]

I have a 2003 sport trac xlt 4x4 and I just bought both uppers and lower control arms, both inner and outer tie rods, new links and camber kit.
I can find a write up for pretty much everything but removing the lower control arms. everything ive read basically says to only replace the ball joints on the lowers because the bushings are most likely good and that to replace the LCA you have to remove the torsion bar which can be dangerous. im very mechanically inclined but am not a huge gearhead. any help would be greatly appreciated. I already bought both LCA's but if everyone tells me to only do the balljoints then i'll take heed and return those and just buy the ball joints. but if someone could send me a link to a write up or point me in the right direction thatd be awesome. thanks.

 

[david4451]

Removing torsion bar from my experience is not dangerous. Just make sure you remove the torsion bar before you remove the lower control arm bushing bolts.
Remove everything attached to lower control arm, there will then be minimum twist on torsion bar, then remove bolt on torsion bar key. This takes all twist off torsion bar and removes easily.
You will find an expanded foam material under the steel seat for torsion bar key, mine was disintegratiing(like body mounts). You will need to replace this foam material if it's shot.
Do one side at a time, you will sort out problematic areas and other side will be a lot easier.

 

[sethsport]

ok several questions here.
ive seen videos where the bolt for the torsion bar was loosened and then everything was able to be removed no problem, then ive also seen people having to take either a pitman arm puller, or a torsion bar unloader tool to depress the key to remove that small piece.

can I just undo the bolt and be good or do I need that special tool for this job?

also, im doing inner an outer tie rods, do I need that special tool that looks like a big socket cut in half or do I have access with a wrench? its a 2003 sport trac xlt 4x4.

and I heard I had to take note of the ride height if im going to be doing the LCA's, what does that entail?

and what about my strut, do I need a spring compressor, im not even sure I have coil springs I think its just a shock strut. do I need to do anything special there or can I just unbolt it from the LCA?

big thanks again for any help, im sure ill have more questions, im even thinking about doing a write up for this considering I haven't found any great resources on the process of removing and replacing all these components at once on my vehicle.

 

[swshawaii]

Unless your LCA bushings are worn or the control arms are damaged, there is no reason to replace them. Info for LCA replacement is hard to find is because few have done it. Also forgot about this issue with torsion bar hex fitment with Moog and Raybestos premium grade control arms. Just FYI, this may be a good reason or excuse to return them to RA.

See EF links in thread below.

Moog control arm, loose torsion bar fit?
http://www.ranger-forums.com/suspension-tech-36/moog-control-arm-loose-torsion-bar-fit-146543/

 

[sethsport]

Well damn. Wish I had known this before dropping the cash on new arms. I really don't want to go to the trouble of installing them just to find that the torsion bar won't fit right. I'll probably just send them back and get some new ball joints. Now do I go with the moog problem solver ball joints or that sweet looking mevotech. The txt or whatever it's called.
Ahhhh decisions decisions....Any thoughts on that?

 

[swshawaii]

While the Mevotech TXK "Terrain Tough" lower ball joints look cool, it seems very few here have actually used them. Moog's K8695T are BY FAR the most popular aftermarket replacement here, and I've seen very few complaints about them. My peeve was ruptured and leaking dust boots after a very short time. They were installed properly and never overfilled using lithium chassis grease. Moog has since completely redesigned their dust boots. If your LCA's are OK, I believe most here will agree to return them and replace only the ball joints. Curious if RockAuto will pay return shipping
if you show them the response from Moog below. Keep posted.

So just spoke with Moog and Paul said that "In his experience they fit loose". I asked why since there wasnt a problem getting a tight fit when it was OEM and he said because sometimes it has to fit multiple vehicles, years etc. Which of course is true however the OEM control arms were all identical anyway and fit well so thats not really an excuse IMO.

He said that his spec sheet reads that flat to flat on the hex in the control arm should be 38.4mm +/- .5mm. I'll measure mine when I get home and see if it's within their spec. Otherwise I'm not going to mess with a swap, I think I'll just weld on some shims since apparently they slip around otherwise.

If that doesn't work it seems that the consensus is to go with motorcraft for the best fit.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3453774&postcount=188

Moog Problem Solver quality? (See post #8 )
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399410

More Information for MOOG K8695T (Scroll down)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=203594&cc=1414538&jsn=444

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Seth, if you can swing the time and money I'd rebuild the original arms on your Trac if you have the means to if I were you.

I can't get my front end aligned until I replace my front control arms because the bushings are shot. I ordered used arms off of Ebay. I drilled out the old bushings, blasted them (wasn't necessary), and pressed in polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension, part number 4.3157R.

 

[sethsport]

I spoke with one of the technicians at moog today about the torsion bar issues with the problem solver lower control arms and he said he hasn't had any complaints and has never heard of any issues of the hex being slightly too big. I'm sure some vehicles have had these issues and I'm hoping mine will not be one of them. I'm going to go ahead with the full install of everything this Saturday/Sunday in hopes it will all work out. I'm going to do my best to do a write up, possibly a video too of this process, including torque specs and bolt but sizes. I picked up a Haynes manual and rented some tools the Haynes said I'd need. I also worked out a deal so that I've got a vehicle if this takes longer than the weekend. Wish me luck and I will let you all know how it goes.

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Save the old lowers and rebuild them or sell them. Don't trash them.

Edit: I meant even though you're using the new parts don't throw away the old arms.