Repalced Heads - now it won't idle, mis-fires like mad...

[Elessar65]

That is definitely not sounding good. I was gonna make a suggestion, but you've already tried everything I can think of.

 

[jd4242]

No you can just hook it to the #1 wire and look check it on the tdc mark on the crank.maybe a bad ecm

 

[jd4242]

Check for stored codes,unplug the nattery overnight again and try

 

[RammaR]

Does it need a certain type of clamp or fitting? I'm guessing it connects between the spark plug wire and the plug itself.

ECM = PCM?

I'd still rather believe it's the new heads, but with all 6 plugs fouled evenly I"m not so sure.

 

[RammaR]

How quickly should the codes appear? I've never gotten any yet though this whole ordeal - but the battery gets unplugged pretty much daily as an early step in just about every Haynes manual test. It's not been run long enough to get to normal operating temperature yet.

 

[jd4242]

You can connect it at the pack too.I'm leaning more towards the pcm,the miss fires sound to be random witch means its not the same cylinder each time.codes can show up with key on engine off and not allways will a light be on

 

[elbow2342]

Hi with the engine running, pull one plug wire at a time, and see what the effects are. if when you pull the wire the engine runs worse, then that cylinder is ok.if it makes no difference then that is the area or cylinder where the problem lies. if it seems as though all cylinders are firing then the problem is in fuel or emmision controls. Also when you get it running properly have your radiator flow checked or replace it to protect your new heads. over heating is usualy the cause cracked heads or blown head gaskets. Elbow

 

[ranger7ltr]

I hope I didn't miss this...

But after listening to your video, i wanted to pull the IAC and see if the engine runs at all...

But when it does run what is the vacuum level and the fuel pressure? I need to change my heads thanks to a leaking head gasket externally and I would hate to go from a perfectly running engine to what yours is doing..

No offense intended...

And BTW the valvetrain is non-adjustable on the 2.9 liter and the 4.0 liter V6...

 

[pinstripefan90]

I'm not trying to be a jerk or try and belittle you but you are 100% sure that you have the wires hooked up in correct order from the coil pack to the cylinders. I'm a mechanic and one time I saw a guy in another bay do a tune-up on a 3.8 Mustang and after he hooked everything up it ran like this because he didn't know Ford's weird firing order or how they position there cylinders...sorry to be stating the obvious, i'm not trying to be disrespectful at all...good luck.

- Jake

 

[RammaR]

Ranger, the fuel pressure is about 35 lbs before cranking. When it first starts up it drops to about 28 lbs and then goes back up to ~37 lbs. Giving it gas or increasing vacuum with a hand pump causes fuel pressure to drop.

I've checked voltages and resistances on the IAC - they're normal. Pulled it off completely for more air and it didn't run any better.

I replaced the head gaskets a couple years ago (didn't fix the heads at that time) and this wasn't an issue. Something strange is going on with my truck right now but if you've got a leaking head gasket - fix it!

 

[RammaR]

JD, no codes still. One strange thing is that the battery light on the dash is coming on when the engine is trying to run. We'll give it gas to get it to 2000 - 2500 rpm and the battery light comes on.

 

[RammaR]

No offense taken on plug wiring. We've had them all on and off several times and done tug-testing to make sure we had the right ones from one side to the other. I've actually wondered if my coilpack wasn't wired 1-2-3 / 5-6-4.

Also, all 6 plugs are getting fouled with carbon. #6 actually had some wet fuel on it this morning. I think whatever is causing this is universal to all six cylinders and not a specific plug or injector.

 

[jd4242]

no offense taken on plug wiring. We've had them all on and off several times and done tug-testing to make sure we had the right ones from one side to the other. I've actually wondered if my coilpack wasn't wired 1-2-3 / 5-6-4.

Also, all 6 plugs are getting fouled with carbon. #6 actually had some wet fuel on it this morning. I think whatever is causing this is universal to all six cylinders and not a specific plug or injector.

x2.

 

[elbow2342]

your coil pack is wired left side front to rear 1 2 3 / right side front to rear 5 6 4 . from the sound on your video it sounds like one cylinder firing with an intake valve open.
Elbow

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I'll throw this in, how about your ground wires for your computer? it might sound dumb, but back in the day, we did a set of heads on my friends firebird, and when we started it up, it ran like crap. computer didn't have any cods, popped and farted, only for it to be one ground wire disconnected. hey, worth a shot.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Numbering of cylinders & ignition coil

your coil pack is wired left side front to rear 1 2 3 / right side front to rear 5 6 4 . from the sound on your video it sounds like one cylinder firing with an intake valve open.
Elbow

According to Haynes for the OHV V6:

Cylinders right (passenger) front to rear: 1,2,3
left (driver) front to rear: 4,5,6

Coil pack right (passenger) front to rear: 1,2,3
left (driver) front to rear: 5,6,4

 

[RammaR]

The coilpack has cylinder numbers next to each terminal. They are in the 1-2-3 / 5-6-4 arrangement.

elbow, at first I was thinking it was a single cylinder issue too. But the universal plug fouling and fairly balanced compression I leaning against it. In the past, if I've had a misfire that cylinders plug always looked different.

Compression was:
Cyl 1 - 120 lbs
Cyl 2 - 135 lbs
Cyl 3 - 130 lbs
Cyl 4 - 130 lbs
Cyl 5 - 115 lbs
Cyl 6 - 120 lbs

All cylinders hit ~90 lbs on the first stroke and then peaked after 4 strokes. As you can see, it doesn't run long enough to really warm-up. So the test was done with the engine pretty cool.

I'm interested in the idea of the ground wire as it sounds better than the PCM. The only true ground wire that I know of is the one from the driver's side firewall down to the cylinder head on that side. It's a thick grounding strap that bolts on with like a 13 mm bolt.

I'm seeing proper battery voltages at the various sensors. But we are noticing the battery voltage light on the dash coming on when it's trying to run. Battery voltage last night was 11.96 volts. Maybe it needs a little kick?

 

[RammaR]

I checked a few grounds. 0.5 ohms from the negative battery terminal to the block. The grounding strap from the firewall near the PCM to the block was about the same. Anywhere else specific to check?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuel pressure & MAF sensor

Ranger, the fuel pressure is about 35 lbs before cranking. When it first starts up it drops to about 28 lbs and then goes back up to ~37 lbs. Giving it gas or increasing vacuum with a hand pump causes fuel pressure to drop. . . .

Your fuel pressure should be greatest when there is no vacuum (FPR line disconnected) and least when there is high vacuum. When the engine accelerates the vacuum briefly decreases and the fuel pressure should briefly increase. When the engine is idling the vacuum is high and the fuel pressure should be less than with no vacuum and greater than when engine is accelerating. If you connect a hand vacuum pump to the FPR, as you increase the vacuum the fuel pressure should decrease as you stated.

I suspect that your engine is running rich since you have black carbon on the plugs. Does the exhaust contain black smoke? If your fuel pressure is reasonable then something else is causing the richness. Try disconnecting the MAF sensor electrical connection to see if the engine idles smoother when the PCM reverts to stored values.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Is the battery light on all the time while the engine is running?

JD, no codes still. One strange thing is that the battery light on the dash is coming on when the engine is trying to run. We'll give it gas to get it to 2000 - 2500 rpm and the battery light comes on.

If it is, the alternator either isn't charging or there is not battery voltage at the back of the alternator...

Obviously there is enough battery voltage to start the engine but if the alternator is not charging with all the electrical demand in our vehicles there is the necessity for the additional voltage from the alternator...

"I'm seeing proper battery voltages at the various sensors. But we are noticing the battery voltage light on the dash coming on when it's trying to run. Battery voltage last night was 11.96 volts. Maybe it needs a little kick? "

This tells me you are having a voltage problem...My electrical system on my Explorer or V8 Ranger doesn't operate worth a damn if the system voltage is below 12.5 volts...It will misfire, stumble, and generally run like crap without proper voltage...Running voltage is averaging 14 volts, give or take .5 volts...Fix your charging system and then see if the engine runs any better...