Replaced Blend Door Actuator - No hot air

[hatchmaster]

Hi everyone, long time lurker.

I have a 2003 explorer xlt with the flex fuel engine

I replaced the blend door actuator recently after hearing the famous "click click" with no hot air. I followed directions from this site and a YouTube video.

I now have cool-cool warm air from the defroster, cool warm air in the feet, and warm air out the front. Even the warm air out the front is only 50-75% of what "hot" use to be.

When I replaced the actuator the car was in the coldest setting. Before installing the new actuator I plugged it in and rotated from cold to hot to see if it turned. I did turn the dial back to cold so I could install the new actuator.

What did I do wrong? Could the actuator be a dud? Am I a dud?

Thanks

 

[hatchmaster]

Anyone have any ideas?

It is cold here in Colorado!

 

[Number4]

Sounds like it's moving, just not enough. Do you get AC air with the ac on?
Might be a bum part.

 

[CallMeSyd]

I know this is an ancient thread, but since it's getting cold again this time of year, I figured I'd post the solution to this problem for anyone who might have this issue where you're not getting enough heat, or any heat at all, even though you know your actuators are working. The vacuum controlled valve located on your heater core coolant hose is not functioning to allow warm coolant to circulate through the heater core properly. The problem is due to a faulty valve or a leak in the vacuum lines that supply it. There are 2, very small, very brittle vacuum lines that run through the passenger side firewall. One of them is the vacuum supply from the vacuum/intake manifold that supplies vacuum to the actuators behind the dash, and one is the supply coming back out that runs the heater valve. The lines often break, crack, and chip, resulting in loss of vacuum supply that feeds the hvac actuators and valve. Hope this helps someone.

 

[Dean peulen]

Hi everyone, long time lurker.

I have a 2003 explorer xlt with the flex fuel engine

I replaced the blend door actuator recently after hearing the famous "click click" with no hot air. I followed directions from this site and a YouTube video.

I now have cool-cool warm air from the defroster, cool warm air in the feet, and warm air out the front. Even the warm air out the front is only 50-75% of what "hot" use to be.

When I replaced the actuator the car was in the coldest setting. Before installing the new actuator I plugged it in and rotated from cold to hot to see if it turned. I did turn the dial back to cold so I could install the new actuator.

What did I do wrong? Could the actuator be a dud? Am I a dud?

Thanks

There's a vacuum operated valve in the engine bay that opens to feed the hot radiator water into your heating core behind the fire wall this hot radiator coolant is used to heat the air con system. I had my air con topped up with gas in summer and this prick had put a small zip tie on this vacuum valve to stop it opening when I used the heater in winter. I found this zip tie and removed it . Hot and cold no problem. Watch for this scam as it's done in summer and they know you won't be using the heater for a few months.

 

[seanmounty1]

I know this is an ancient thread, but since it's getting cold again this time of year, I figured I'd post the solution to this problem for anyone who might have this issue where you're not getting enough heat, or any heat at all, even though you know your actuators are working. The vacuum controlled valve located on your heater core coolant hose is not functioning to allow warm coolant to circulate through the heater core properly. The problem is due to a faulty valve or a leak in the vacuum lines that supply it. There are 2, very small, very brittle vacuum lines that run through the passenger side firewall. One of them is the vacuum supply from the vacuum/intake manifold that supplies vacuum to the actuators behind the dash, and one is the supply coming back out that runs the heater valve. The lines often break, crack, and chip, resulting in loss of vacuum supply that feeds the hvac actuators and valve. Hope this helps someone.

Hey man ! Going through this same exact problem right now. Changed my actuator, no dice still cold air. Tomorrow changing heater valve. I was wondering, could you pls explain how you checked those vaccum lines? What was the process of replacing them? Thanks!

 

[CallMeSyd]

Hey man ! Going through this same exact problem right now. Changed my actuator, no dice still cold air. Tomorrow changing heater valve. I was wondering, could you pls explain how you checked those vaccum lines? What was the process of replacing them? Thanks!

I'm not sure which lines you're talking about. If you mean the inside rubber lines, they don't break, but sometimes they can accidentally be pulled loose. The hard, brittle outside lines under the hood are ⅛" OD vacuum lines which can be ordered on Amazon as well as the little rubber connectors. On the 2 connectors on the firewall, the plastic tubing can be pulled out of the rubber pieces and replaced. I believe they're glued in from the factory, for which I just used a straight pick from my mini pick tool set and worked it around between the tubing and the rubber until it was free enough to pull out. You can buy the vacuum lines from ford, but like anything else they're cheaper to just use the tubing and connectors to make your own. As for testing the lines, just feel with your fingers for any holes or cracks, and if you think there might be any leaks, pull them off and cap one end with your finger and suck or blow at the other. If there's a leak in the line, you'll know.

 

[Dennis J.A.A.]

Hi everyone, long time lurker.

I have a 2003 explorer xlt with the flex fuel engine

I replaced the blend door actuator recently after hearing the famous "click click" with no hot air. I followed directions from this site and a YouTube video.

I now have cool-cool warm air from the defroster, cool warm air in the feet, and warm air out the front. Even the warm air out the front is only 50-75% of what "hot" use to be.

When I replaced the actuator the car was in the coldest setting. Before installing the new actuator I plugged it in and rotated from cold to hot to see if it turned. I did turn the dial back to cold so I could install the new actuator.

What did I do wrong? Could the actuator be a dud? Am I a dud?

Thanks

I have no problem with getting hot air in the car.
I have a wife in the passenger seat always telling me how to drive.