Replaced Radio w/ Android Head Unit, no power | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replaced Radio w/ Android Head Unit, no power

Joined
July 18, 2019
Messages
14
Reaction score
1
City, State
Chattanooga, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer XLT
I replaced my stock 6 disc radio with an ATOTO A6. I used the Metra wiring harness with the CANBus attachment. Things worked fine, with just radio issues caused by my buying cheap (low ram and backup camera issue). I was relocating my dashcam and now the radio won't turn on. If it's very very dark, I can see the boot image, but that will shut down. Voltmeter across the ground/yellow is 12, Ground/Red is under a volt, even when turned on.

Can this be caused by something tripping the anti-theft? Do I need to reset it with FORScan? Has anyone else come across this issue or something similar?
 



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I installed a cheap aftermarket head unit from Amazon with back up camera and Nav. It was just plug in opeartion. In my case I had a problem with the unit not shutting off after the engine was off and key out. I fugured out that I had to keep one of the wires unplugged in the back.
Mine was a unit designed for 04-08 F150's but the plugs and fit was perfect. It should have nothing to do with PATS
 






I was worried that the ACM was reading something as stolen. I pulled the head unit (again) and connected it to a bench supply and had the same problem. I disconnected the power, unplugged the CANBus module and waited several hours. Then, the thing powers back up. So I'm thiking it's the module that's gone bad. Or maybe I need to not connect the illumination control and the reverse sensor (which is always reading as on, anyway)
 






you definitely dont need any canbus wallet draining adapter just use the yellow as provided "constant power for memory" and hook the red into the large metal fuse that controls the power feed to the windows found in the SBJ under the dash.... the headunit will retain RAP function and work just like the factory unit but if you do this and use the factory red then it will force the RAP module to stay powered on indefinitely or you can run a new keyed power source and make sure the factory red is disconnected and live without the retained accessory power function....
 






I did some more troubleshooting and the OEM is replacing the CANBus adapter.
I cleared all DTMs
Started enging with original radio.
Scanned for DTMs, no issues.
Shut off, disconnected battery
installed new harness and head unit
connected battery
turned ignition on, checked for DTMs

and what do you know, the ACM threw an error. Not a DTM, and error that the ACM wasn't responding. As long as the module is connected, it throws that error.
Contacted the OEM with this info, and an RMA has been issued.
 






You might want to look at a head unit that supports iDatalink. I replaced my 6 Disk with a Kenwood (but Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, and JVC also have some). Get one with Android Auto and/or Apple Car Play and you really bring the Expo into current day tech.
 






So I just got the new canbus adapter and had the same issue. They also sent a new wiring harness, so I re-did that. I hard soldered the connections, and included leads off the red and black for my RCA dash cam.

And what do you know... it's working. I apparently have blown the right rear door speaker entirely, and the left rear needs replacing to. Anyone know what sizes these are?
 






You might want to look at a head unit that supports iDatalink. I replaced my 6 Disk with a Kenwood (but Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, and JVC also have some). Get one with Android Auto and/or Apple Car Play and you really bring the Expo into current day tech.
If I had more of a disposable income, I'd probably go that route and just scavenge the Atoto. I got the Atoto for two reasons. 1) Backup Camera and 2) RCA Dash Cam.
 






Some GoogleFu determines the size to be 4×6's. Now to determine if I want to just replace the speakers or actually get an amp and go that route when Replace them.
 






So I just got the new canbus adapter and had the same issue. They also sent a new wiring harness, so I re-did that. I hard soldered the connections, and included leads off the red and black for my RCA dash cam.

And what do you know... it's working. I apparently have blown the right rear door speaker entirely, and the left rear needs replacing to. Anyone know what sizes these are?

the speakers are 5x7 / 6x8 depending on what you buy if you order 4x6 you will cry alot into your pillow.... i replaced all of mine with 6.5"
 






Thank you!
 






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