Android Head Unit Got Power, No Speakers | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Android Head Unit Got Power, No Speakers

J5hort

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 25, 2018
Messages
124
Reaction score
35
City, State
South Easton
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 XLT
1995 Sport
Hi All,
Happy New Year. Finally got around to installing an aftermarket Android double DIN head unit (Binize) in the 1995 Explorer Sport. Fabrication of the radio bezel went well. It appears that the first wiring adapter harness I bought was not for a 1995 and had different connectors. I was able to pick up a Metra harness that had 2 connectors that were the correct physical connectors. Good news is that I was able to make battery (Yellow) , accessory (red) and ground (black) wire connections and the unit powers up with key on.
The problem is that the speaker connections (4) are clearly marked on both the Metra harness and the Android head unit harness, however I am not getting any sound from any speaker. Checked all the audio level and mute setting on head unit and even patched a few of the speaker leads to a set of old ear buds with alligator clips and was getting audio output from the head unit.

Just wanted to post here to see if there are any ideas. The Explorer's stock radio was working fine with all speakers. I'm wondering if there are any inline amps or other that need power.

Plan was to get handsfree phone working as it is a requirement now in MA. All the other good things that come with this so far as apps and add ons (backup camera) will certainly keep this 26 year old Explorer up to date.

Thoughts?
 



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You have a factory amp that needs bypassed, or powered, before you’ll get sound. You could also run new wiring which would be the best option.
 












You have a factory amp that needs bypassed, or powered, before you’ll get sound. You could also run new wiring which would be the best option.
Was hoping for plug n play. Figured it was some type of amp in between I'm assuming there is a power lead in the factory harness it does have amp power plead on the head unit
wiring harness wondering if that will work

On another note I did set up unit to connect to my phone via tethering and set up the GPS on unit and was able to get internet connection and more importantly navigation maps with Google working fine
 






I’d just slap in some new speaker wire. The factory amp is garbage, sound quality wise.
 






Did the amps only come with the eddie bauer and limited editions with the sub in the back right? My '99 xlt doesnt have an amp I dont think becuase I installed a double din with no speaker problems
 






Some have em some don't
 






Did the amps only come with the eddie bauer and limited editions with the sub in the back right? My '99 xlt doesnt have an amp I dont think becuase I installed a double din with no speaker problems
The early second gens all had amps. In 1998 they put the door speaker amp back in the factory head unit.
 






If you have anything other then a basic XL with no cassette, you have an amp behind the passenger rear panel. It is plug & play if you get the
bypass harness. Nothing more then an inline connector.
I don't think running new cable is easier. On a 4 door it's only a matter of the seat belt bolt a few small screws & push pins. You can access it without taking much off. On a Sport, you'll need to take most of the panel off since it's a larger 1 piece then the 4 door panel, but still sitting in the hatch area you can get your hands in there enough to plug it in.
My 2002 has the amp behind the panel.
 






You’re also then running the factory amp. I thought it sounded like total garbage, although I was running a nice Alpine head unit, and decent Fosgate door speakers.
 






No your not. The wire harness plugs into the harness from the input & output of the amp. The amp has zero wires going to it from the aftermarket HU. It can be removed.
 






There’s also another harness that utilizes it. I mistakenly assumed you meant that. That would have to happen behind the head unit though, so I should have known what you meant. The panel isn’t that hard to remove. I believe the seat belt bolt is a T50.
 






Some conflicting recommendations here and I am willing to experiment. Seeing I have a 95 Sport with pretty much a straight pipe and 32" tires, not to mention plenty of other wind and noise, I'm not sure I am looking for an unequalled sound experienced, but there is a limit on the inferior audio I would be willing to tolerate given some of my other home and car audio setups.

So, I am willing to bypass amp as an experiment. Is there a manufacturer or bypass kit part # that anyone has that can be supplied?

I have a 95 Sport with factory AM/FM cassette and installed the premium aftermarket radio harness with 8 pin power connector and 16 pin speaker connector.

Assuming it is a cheap enough bypass adapter, I can also run and test a direct wiring experiment to see what, if any difference there is.

This may be more about which is easier to install and utility vs. sound difference.
 






Bypass and direct wiring will be similar enough, unless you use a very good quality speaker and speaker wire. The difference would be the factory amp power vs the head unit power. I bypassed the amp in my 96, but just cut into the factory wiring.
 






Bypass and direct wiring will be similar enough, unless you use a very good quality speaker and speaker wire. The difference would be the factory amp power vs the head unit power. I bypassed the amp in my 96, but just cut into the factory wiring.
Any How-to on this so I can check out before attempting?
 







It’s possible your colors would match up to this.
 






I'll need to remove rear panel and check amp wires. It sounds pretty straight forward. Assuming bypass kit just saves integrity of stock wiring/connectors vs. having to splice.
 






Generic bypass is under $10. Actual Metra part 70-5602 is around $25
Ebay, amazon, crutchfield, even bestbuy carries it.
 






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