Replaced starter solenoid still won't crank with key

[colintrax]

My truck has been acting funny for a little bit, power windows won't work occasionally when I first crank it up. And it began not cranking with the key. Jumping the solenoid works soooo I replaced it. Nope, same thing.
Any ideas?

 

[koda2000]

sounds like power isn't making it to the solenoid to energize it. could be the ignition switch or a relay. check your owner's manual to see which relay is for the starter and swap it with a similar relay to see if that makes any difference. also look for corrosion on the relay and where it plugs in. if it's the ignition switch that might explain your window issues too,

 

[colintrax]

The weird thing is... I swear I can hear it click.
I'll try the relay in a little bit. How would I check the ignition switch? I guess I could pull the signal wire and see if it's sending power when I turn the key

 

[koda2000]

The weird thing is... I swear I can hear it click.
I'll try the relay in a little bit. How would I check the ignition switch? I guess I could pull the signal wire and see if it's sending power when I turn the key

that's what i'd do. not only power, but how many volts. i had a vehicle that drove me nuts with a similar problem. i finally replaced the signal wire after i measured the voltage at the solenoid and found it was only carrying 7 volts. solved my problem.

 

[colintrax]

that's what i'd do. not only power, but how many volts. i had a vehicle that drove me nuts with a similar problem. i finally replaced the signal wire after i measured the voltage at the solenoid and found it was only carrying 7 volts. solved my problem.

I couldn't find the relay, do you know where it's at?
I went ahead and checked the signal wire voltage, .2 volts all the time .8 volts when trying to crank the engine. where do I go from here?

Also, forgot to add. The door locks like to freak out when trying to start the truck. And these problems started roughly when my old battery broke a cell going down the freeway. Replaced it with a Sears Platinum AGM

 

[koda2000]

I couldn't find the relay, do you know where it's at?
I went ahead and checked the signal wire voltage, .2 volts all the time .8 volts when trying to crank the engine. where do I go from here?

Also, forgot to add. The door locks like to freak out when trying to start the truck. And these problems started roughly when my old battery broke a cell going down the freeway. Replaced it with a Sears Platinum AGM

do you have an owner's manual? if not, i believe you can download one in. i'm pretty sure the start relay would be in the power distribution box. if you ask me nice i'll go look it up in my 97's.

i know that when i was having problems with my '97's driver's door remote and latch, repeatedly turning the ignition key would make the locks "freak out" (aka - cycle).

the fact that you basically have zero voltage on the signal wire (i assume this was when turning the key to START right? that's the only time there should be power on that wire) makes me think faulty ignition switch. it's not that hard to change, it's found on the lower steering column and is connected to the key switch via a rod.

here's a wiring diagram for a 97 (i don't know if yours is auto or manual trans, so there are several different diagrams available. it shows an anti-theft relay, but doesn't say where it lives. might be inside over the gas pedal. i believe there are several there. a believe what the diagram is calling STARTER RELAY is the solenoid.

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/searches?...starting_charging_starting_circuit_a_t_1_of_1

use rrcc and rebsco to login.

 

[colintrax]

I have the owners manual but didn't see the relay listed. I'll look again.

The signal wire is receiving .2 volts when the ignition in run and .8 with the ignition in start.
Thanks for the wiring diagram, I guess tomorrow I'll pull the column cover and check voltage at the ignition switch

 

[koda2000]

I have the owners manual but didn't see the relay listed. I'll look again.

The signal wire is receiving .2 volts when the ignition in run and .8 with the ignition in start.
Thanks for the wiring diagram, I guess tomorrow I'll pull the column cover and check voltage at the ignition switch

it should be a red/lt blue wire that goes to the solenoid according to the diagram. when 12v goes through this wire it energizes the starter solenoid, which then sends 12v and many amps directly to the stater motor.

i don't think the .2 & .8 volts is meaningful. just stray voltage.

 

[colintrax]

Ok, found the starter relay. No corrosion and swapping it around didn't help.
Decieded to recheck the signal wire with my good multimeter. 2~3 volts even with the keys removed. However it's dwindled down to 1.39 because I left the meter attached. 3.05 volts with key in ignition sitting in the off position. 4~5.5 volts with key in run position. 4ish volts with keys in start position and a short voltage spike when released back to run. I'm guessing something is wrong with the ignition? About to pop the column cover off.

 

[colintrax]

Must be an ignition switch problem. Tried blowing it out with the air compressor and it made all kinds of beeps/chirps. Removing the panel made the truck act like I had keys in the ignition.

 

[koda2000]

Must be an ignition switch problem. Tried blowing it out with the air compressor and it made all kinds of beeps/chirps. Removing the panel made the truck act like I had keys in the ignition.

yeah, sounds like something's come loose inside the switch. they're pretty cheap, about $20 at AutoZone. easy to change except for the location.

 

[colintrax]

yeah, sounds like something's come loose inside the switch. they're pretty cheap, about $20 at AutoZone. easy to change except for the location.

Switch feels tight and I don't see any corosion. The key tumbler is gross, gonna clean it more. Also there's a blue plastic tab attached to the column that reaches down the side of the cylinder. The tab is broken and the metal finger is bent. I'm guessing that's the problem... Question is, where do I get a new one? What's it even called?

Btw the broke wire is black with a purple or pink dashed stripe. I couldn't find it in the wiring diagram

 

[koda2000]

Switch feels tight and I don't see any corosion. The key tumbler is gross, gonna clean it more. Also there's a blue plastic tab attached to the column that reaches down the side of the cylinder. The tab is broken and the metal finger is bent. I'm guessing that's the problem... Question is, where do I get a new one? What's it even called?

pull-a-part?

 

[colintrax]

pull-a-part?

Guess so. Helluva lotta work for a stupid piece of plastic. I might just try some epoxy or something. The good pull a part reduced their hours, and I work 6am to 5pm every day. So I'd have to leave work early to grab it

 

[boominXplorer]

I would also try replacing the ground cable going from the (-) teminal to the body. My old mountaineer had very similar issues along with dimming lights at night and ended up replacing the 8" cable while doing a teminal swap and never had an issue again.

 

[colintrax]

I would try replacing the ground cable going from the (-) teminal to the body. My old mountaineer had very similar issues and ended up replacing the 8" cable while doing a teminal swap and never had an issue again.

You don't think it's the broken wire? I plan on replacing all my wires soon, along with a higher output alt. but if I don't have to do it right now I'd rather not

 

[boominXplorer]

Oh the problem could very well be in the column between the key and the relay. For 20 minutes and like $15 from the parts store you can replace and upgrade the ground wire and confirm a weak ground is not the issue. The ground is undersized from the factory and if it gets a little corroded you will notice things not working due to voltage drop. In reality if the windows don't work at all intermittanly then its prob not a weak ground but its worth the shot.

 

[colintrax]

Fixing the blue tab kinda helped. Now ithe signal wire is around 2 volts in run and 6 in start. Headed to the parts store to get a new switch and ground wire

 

[colintrax]

Only difference is the autozone switch has a horrible feel to it. It'll be going back.

 

[colintrax]

I don't see how it effected my windows but it was the transmission position sensor. Still gets 4volts with keys not even in the ignition ?? Shouldn't it be zero?