Replacement door window seals

[masospaghetti]

The bulb seals for the doors are still readily available, but what about the window seals (where the windows roll up and seal into with the felt lining)? Other than scouring a salvage yard, any sources for new ones?

 

[fast_dave]

@masospaghetti

Here's a link to a place that I saved a few years ago just because they had a LOT of body & door parts.

OK - Lots of disclaimers follow

I don't recall if their parts are OEM - but it is what it is 20 + years after the fact.

I've never used them, I remember they were pricey, but here's the link: Parts for Ford Explorers 1991-2005

In addition, I imagine there is always hoping to find NOS on Ebay, or on a dealer shelf, or the Original MFG. selling them as aftermarket.

EBAY LINK: Front Outer Window Belt Felt Sweep Kit for 91-01 Ford Explorer Mountaineer | eBay

Looks like the Ebay offering is made by this company - Fairchild Industries of Lake Zurich, IL- LINK: Automotive

I'd hazard a guess that they were the original OEM since they are so close to MI.

HTH and let us know how it works out - I'm sure the outer window seals will be a subject as these trucks start getting restored.

 

[J_C]

While we're on the topic, anybody know what the best option is for the exterior molding around the rear quarter panel windows? LMC truck doesn't show them and I imagine I might have to use generic molding material but it's difficult to figure out what has the right dimensions including the press-in tab since I haven't pulled them off yet.

Due to the sharp angles of the corners on them, I'd like something with right angles molded in, rather not make 45' angle cuts at every corner if it can be avoided.

 

[fast_dave]

@J_C

Years ago, when I copied & stored the link for LMC, they used to offer a lot of the hard-to-get stuff for bodies & doors.

But as these rigs get older, the on the shelf stock is depleted, and as demand decreases, no new runs are manufactured.

Here's a link for E-Bay that might help - but you'll have to sift through it.

Sometimes sellers don't list the parts as you think they should - so there's a lot of offerings to sift through.

LINK: Exterior Mouldings & Trims for 1998 Ford Explorer for sale | eBay

You can also try searching in Google Images - sometimes that will take you to a seller's website.

HTH -

 

[J_C]

^ Thanks but I've tried something similar including more keywords to narrow down from 33K hits, including variations of:
-chrome -windshield -stainless -door -bezel -carbon -frame -roof -key -Emblem -rain -guard -deflector -hood -fender -hatch -gate -bumper -light -visor -visors -tailgate Ford Explorer rear side window trim

That narrows things to hundreds to a few thousand that I've looked through, and I haven't seen any. An image search didn't help either so I might contact a local autoglass company and ask when they'd use, and if they'd sell me some.

Otherwise Amazon has universal like this,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAIBMX8/?tag=serious-20

but just looking at the outside of the molding I don't have any idea which shape would be best. I looked on a couple major molding manufacturer sites and left no more sure of what I need than before I got there.

CRL Universal Windshield and Channel Moldings

C. R. Laurence is the world leader, wholesale distributor to the Glazing, Industrial, Construction, Architectural, Hardware and Automotive Industries, supplying railing, windscreen, standoffs, and other supplies to major industries and manufacturers.

www.crlaurence.com

None of the sites I was on, specify any of their part #s for the rear quarter panel window.

Something else I hadn't really thought about, was that this rear window does have its own adhesive seal, right? The molding just slips into the gap after it's installed, is not necessary to put the molding around the window perimeter before installation?

 

[BKennedy]

While we're on the topic, anybody know what the best option is for the exterior molding around the rear quarter panel windows? LMC truck doesn't show them and I imagine I might have to use generic molding material but it's difficult to figure out what has the right dimensions including the press-in tab since I haven't pulled them off yet.

Due to the sharp angles of the corners on them, I'd like something with right angles molded in, rather not make 45' angle cuts at every corner if it can be avoided.

View attachment 323782

I've pulled a few of those windows out and the molding is attached to the glass, along with several studs that hold the window in place.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Rear quarter glass... Yes, one problem is sun damage and exterior deterioration. If you can not find and replace with a new or salvage unit, you might use Marine Tex to fill the sun damage holes. Then paint the molding.

Another problem is water leakage from bad interior seals. Keep observing this area for problems, to avoid discovering the leaking rear quarter panel interior seals only after the leaks cause damage. You can sometimes tighten the series of nuts around the inside of the rear quarter glass. You will have to remove the rear quarter interior trim plastic interior panels to access the retaining nuts. This might resolve your leak.

If not, you have to remove the rear quarter glass to replace the rear quarter seal. Be careful to push the rear quarter panel glass out and allow it to break on the ground when you remove it. The original seals are getting old. Auto glass places should have the material you need. Make sure to get the correct thickness of window seal gasket.

Good luck.

 

[fast_dave]

^^^ I looked up Marine Tex, and I like this idea.

Of course the BIG issue is the structural integrity of plastic molding that's been exposed to sunlight & heat for 20+ years.

Will it simply break or fall apart when separating it from the glass or while performing the various steps in the restoration process?!?!

And then you have the issue of removing the window, and breaking the rubber seal....

With that said; If Marine Tex doesn't "flow down" - maybe it's best to attempt the plastic molding restoration with the window & everything in place?

Just tape & paper the surrounding area, and work on everything while it's in place.

 

[BKennedy]

The few sets of these windows I have removed came out very easy. I am fairly certain no sealant is used and there is just a flat rubber seal between the plastic molding and the body.. One car I pulled them from was from Ohio and a rusted hulk. Those windows popped right out after removing all the nuts.

 

[fast_dave]

The few sets of these windows I have removed came out very easy. I am fairly certain no sealant is used and there is just a flat rubber seal between the plastic molding and the body.. One car I pulled them from was from Ohio and a rusted hulk. Those windows popped right out after removing all the nuts.

I hear you.

I'm assuming (which may be bad ) that J_C wants to replace the rear quarter window outer molding because as @Mr. Alligator noted, over the years the hard plastic window molding gets pitted & brittle. Here in the PRK, while walking through parking lots, I've seen some sun damaged examples on Ex's that are really bad - so I concur.

So what I'm suggesting/thinking out loud is why chance opening a potential Pandora's box if the only issue is the 20+ year old plastic molding is pitting.

Seems to me that restoring the plastic molding in place is a much safe alternative VS full window removal.

Of course, my suggestion is based on Mr. Alligator's suggested repair material "Marine Tex" sticking in place when applied and not flowing downwards - I've never worked with it.

@J_C - am I correct in assuming you want to replace the plastic window molding because of it pitting or?

 

[J_C]

Yes it is pitting, brittle, no leaks yet.

Since I live in a climate where rust prevails, it may not be worth bothering with as far as long term solutions, but I tackle one thing at a time and it's looking chunky.

So far it's only the driver's side. I'm fine with only doing one at a time.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Marine Tex does flow a little (although if I recall, (although it advertises that it does not), and this can be an issue when using large amounts. I do not think it would be a problem covering rather small pits. It is available in two colors, black and white.

The hard plastic (pitted) molding is one piece with the glass. The glass and unit removes easily after you remove the series of nuts holding it in, but you might want to tape it to the truck or have someone else help you, so that it does not fall out when you push on it from the inside.

The seal is a sticky piece of hard durable tape. These are available in auto window glass stores, just make sure you do not get one that is that too thick, or your window glass unit will not sit flush with the truck.

If the problem is sun damage, not leaking, I would do the repair on the truck. You could tape off any places you did not want the Marine Tex.

The leaking is a separate project, in my opinion. Keep an eye out for the leaks, though, because it can go undetected and abuse rust damage to your jack and areas behind the interior panels.

When you are done, sanding and spray painting the molding might help protect from further damage.

Good luck!