Replacing AC Clutch without removing compressor? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replacing AC Clutch without removing compressor?

mdisalvo

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 26, 2010
Messages
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City, State
SoCal
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Eddie Bauer Explorer
When running heat or AC I've heard my clutch engaging for a while now, with a loud chirp each time it engages. It's gotten worse though, to a degree that I'm afraid it's going to crap out on me soon and leave me stranded. I don't want to take the entire compressor out because I don't have the tools or a garage, so I was going to try replacing just the clutch hub while it's in the car (see link below) and shimming to the recommended gap (.254-.610mm) to see if that takes care of it.


From what I understand this might not actually fix it if the problem is the bearing inside the hub, but I'm not sure if I can replace all that while the compressor is still in the car. So, has anyone replaced the entire AC Clutch while leaving the compressor in or is that a dumb idea? It's an 04 with the V6, if that matters.
 



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When running heat or AC I've heard my clutch engaging for a while now, with a loud chirp each time it engages. It's gotten worse though, to a degree that I'm afraid it's going to crap out on me soon and leave me stranded. I don't want to take the entire compressor out because I don't have the tools or a garage, so I was going to try replacing just the clutch hub while it's in the car (see link below) and shimming to the recommended gap (.254-.610mm) to see if that takes care of it.


From what I understand this might not actually fix it if the problem is the bearing inside the hub, but I'm not sure if I can replace all that while the compressor is still in the car. So, has anyone replaced the entire AC Clutch while leaving the compressor in or is that a dumb idea? It's an 04 with the V6, if that matters.
Not sure the process of changing just the clutch but I imagine it wouldn't be very easy with the assembly in the engine. If it were me I would just change out the entire compressor, (as you said just changing the clutch may not even fix the problem), or just live with the noise. Just finished removing and installing the compressor as part of a bigger job, it's really not all that bad. An electrical connection, 3 mounting bolts, and the hose. This was done on an 02' 4.0, I assume it's the same process. Just my .02, good luck!

Maybe someone can chime in on the possibility of changing with assembly in engine if you are set on that route.
 






Not sure the process of changing just the clutch but I imagine it wouldn't be very easy with the assembly in the engine. If it were me I would just change out the entire compressor, (as you said just changing the clutch may not even fix the problem), or just live with the noise. Just finished removing and installing the compressor as part of a bigger job, it's really not all that bad. An electrical connection, 3 mounting bolts, and the hose. This was done on an 02' 4.0, I assume it's the same process. Just my .02, good luck!

Maybe someone can chime in on the possibility of changing with assembly in engine if you are set on that route.
Thank you for the info. Aren't there other steps involving the old freon and then charging the new unit up with freon? I assumed that's a fairly involved process.
 






You've got to remove the fan and shroud to have enough room to work on it. Even then its tight but doable. Getting a 2/3 jaw puller in there will be the fun part. If you can do it while it's in the truck no freon will come out/have to be messed with.
 






Thank you for the info. Aren't there other steps involving the old freon and then charging the new unit up with freon? I assumed that's a fairly involved process.

Yes you would have to recover/discharge the system, then recharge, not really something you can do on your own without specialized equipment. Do what boominXplorer suggested, sounds like it is possible to do it with the unit still in the truck. As stated I'm not very familiar with the procedure (and it's showing), I was under the assumption the AC would have to be evacuated either way.
 






Single 8mm holds the external part of the clutch on. It pulls right off, just watch for the shims behind the splined shaft. Then a clip holds the pulley on but its pressed on the housing. This is where it will get tricky as it will need to be pulled off the compressor housing with a 2 or 3 jaw puller. Its tight but doable. I'd buy a ford clutch and then leave the current electromagnet as long as it looks undamaged. If you buy an aftermarket clutch it might not mesh with the original electromagnet. It's a pain to swap the electromagnet, I'd try to avoid replacing it since its not your issue.
 






Single 8mm holds the external part of the clutch on. It pulls right off, just watch for the shims behind the splined shaft. Then a clip holds the pulley on but its pressed on the housing. This is where it will get tricky as it will need to be pulled off the compressor housing with a 2 or 3 jaw puller. Its tight but doable. I'd buy a ford clutch and then leave the current electromagnet as long as it looks undamaged. If you buy an aftermarket clutch it might not mesh with the original electromagnet. It's a pain to swap the electromagnet, I'd try to avoid replacing it since its not your issue.
That's kind of what I was thinking I would do. Since the external hub is simple to swap out without removing the fan/fan shroud I am going to replace it with a Motorcraft part first, shim it to the right specs, and see if that fixes it. If not I'll take it off again and get the clutch pulley below and swap it out too. Just so I'm understanding-the piece below comes with the bearing in it right?

 






Yes you would have to recover/discharge the system, then recharge, not really something you can do on your own without specialized equipment. Do what boominXplorer suggested, sounds like it is possible to do it with the unit still in the truck. As stated I'm not very familiar with the procedure (and it's showing), I was under the assumption the AC would have to be evacuated either way.
Could I potentially replace the entire assembly, then go get it filled with freon at an AC shop?
 






Could I potentially replace the entire assembly, then go get it filled with freon at an AC shop?
Yes, if you were to go that route I would suggest having the AC system evacuated/recovered first, if not you will get a blast of freon to the face (not to mention it is illegal to discharge into the air). Most reputable shops should have a charging machine, it simply hooks up to the low and high pressure lines and does it's thing, although it's typically not very cheap to have this done ($1-200). Pretty expensive fix for a chirp if you ask me.

After taking mine apart I decided to let it sit empty with the relay pulled as to not accidentally set the compressor off (not sure if it even would, there may be a failsafe preventing this given there's no pressure). I turn AC on maybe 3 times a year so it's not worth the cost to me personally.
 






Yes, if you were to go that route I would suggest having the AC system evacuated/recovered first, if not you will get a blast of freon to the face (not to mention it is illegal to discharge into the air). Most reputable shops should have a charging machine, it simply hooks up to the low and high pressure lines and does it's thing, although it's typically not very cheap to have this done ($1-200). Pretty expensive fix for a chirp if you ask me.

After taking mine apart I decided to let it sit empty with the relay pulled as to not accidentally set the compressor off (not sure if it even would, there may be a failsafe preventing this given there's no pressure). I turn AC on maybe 3 times a year so it's not worth the cost to me personally.
I've been running it very sparingly for the past couple years now and the chirp has gotten pretty loud, I figured I'd do some preventative maintenance and see if I couldn't fix it on my own since I've got some free time lately. Definitely trying to avoid replacing the entire condensor. If the hub doesn't fix it I'll probably try the pulley piece and then call it a day after that.
 






If it works now and all your after to fix is a noisy clutch I'd do just the clutch. If things go wrong then your half way there to replacing the compressor.
 






If it works now and all your after to fix is a noisy clutch I'd do just the clutch. If things go wrong then your half way there to replacing the compressor.
Will do-I ordered the hub, will report back in a week or so once it arrives and I've swapped it out.
 






If the only problem is a loud click (which really is not a problem as it's not hurting anything) you just need to remove some or all of the clutch shims to decrease the gap between the clutch and the pulley.
 






I replaced the clutch hub successfully and it seems to have solved the loud chirp when running the AC. I measured the gap before I removed it and it was actually right within spec at .01". When I pulled it off you could tell the back of the plate was quite worn out when compared to the new one. I re used the shim that was there and the gap is actually a bit smaller than .01" now (didn't have any extra shims). I've driven it and used the AC several times now and it seems like it's working perfectly fine, although I will get some shims from Amazon and re do so it's within spec since I'm not sure if it being under the .01" will cause any issues later.
 






I replaced the clutch hub successfully and it seems to have solved the loud chirp when running the AC. I measured the gap before I removed it and it was actually right within spec at .01". When I pulled it off you could tell the back of the plate was quite worn out when compared to the new one. I re used the shim that was there and the gap is actually a bit smaller than .01" now (didn't have any extra shims). I've driven it and used the AC several times now and it seems like it's working perfectly fine, although I will get some shims from Amazon and re do so it's within spec since I'm not sure if it being under the .01" will cause any issues later.
How did you remove the 8mm clutch bolt? Im having a problem getting my out. Ive manged to get it unthreaded a couple of threads but fighting to get it out.
 






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