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Replacing AWD viscous coupler in situ

lincolnshibuya

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 1, 2014
Messages
875
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City, State
kc mo
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 mercury mountaineer
After a long while of noticing my mountaineer binding on turns (basically on 4x4 all the time) I decided to buy a new viscous coupler in ebay (ste coupler) for $550. It made a lot difference after the install, things are smooth now and I don't have to worry about the 4x4 trashing my driveline.

I decided to replace it without removing the entire assembly, leaving the half attached to the transmission and front driveshaft. What took most of my time is the stripped torx plus bolt that holds the label (luckily only that one) For some reason this bolt is seized pretty bad that even when I grinded the head off and tried to loosen it by the body, it twisted and sheared it off leaving me to drill and use ez-out which was a bad idea... the ez-out broke and I said to myself that I'm fu&%%ked.... it will take me days or remove the assembly out to remove the ez-out. Then I researched that the ez-out can be grinded off using the grinding stone used in Dremel. It worked and I just replaced the bolt with M8 with a nylon lock-nut.. took me the entire weekend to do the job cursing the ez-out and driving 20miles away to get the left handed drill bit from harbor freight... ez-outs are bad use left handed drill bits.


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Well done, I'm glad it worked out in the end. It's a shame about the Torx bolt, those are usually no issues(versus other bolt types). I'm glad to see there's not much inside the AWD TC, I plan to rebuild two of mine this Winter.
 






I've worked with BMW and Volvo where they used a lot of torx bolts and I usually dreaded the part when it looks rusted/corroded and have space issues....make sure they are the correct size and not loose because one turn and it's stripped...maybe the chances of stripping it is less when the transfer case is out and you can align a socket/wrench/impact correctly.

I went to the junkyard to get the replacement bolt and it ended up the same thing.. I also stripped the bolt that holds the label, somehow it's torqued more compared to the rest... I ended not using those bolts (waste of time going to the junkyard) spent several hours grinding the broken ez-out (which in my opinion is also a waste of time for seized bolts) and drove across state line because my nearest Harbor Freight doesn't have the left handed drill bits in stock..
 






I appreciate the time you spent here explaining it all. People will be more careful dealing with those bolts after reading your threads about it.
 






replaced mine last year, Figured a $150 replacement from a junk yard was half the price of just the part to be replaced,,

Glad yours went well..
 






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