Replacing plug wires -- how?

[bluevolume]

I did a tuneup this weekend and had some trouble with the plug wires. The right side went easy, but on the right side the wires run under the intake -- I didn't see any way to get them out other than to remove it. There must be an easier way.

BUT -- if you do have to remove the intake, I might do that, since it seems to be covered inside with black crud. I tried cleaning it with carb cleaner, but there is just too much of it.

Suggestions on either problem?

Thanks,
Blue

 

[Rhett]

You don't need to remove the "intake" (you mean upper intake manifold) to change the plug wires. On a 4.0 OHV engine, the driver's side wires are routed around the back of the manifold, by the firewall. If you use the same diameter wires, you can re-use the plastic loom pieces that hold the wires in places.

The main thing is just be sure the wires don't touch any parts of the engine or else they might get melted by the heat.

For removal of the black crud inside the upper intake manifold, good luck doing it, because that stuff is tough. I've pulled my upper manifold and scrubbed and still i couldn't quite get it all off using AMSOIL Power Foam degreaser. Do a search here on Power Foam and also a product called Sea Foam for more about that. I think the best way to clean the crud would be to have the manifold polished/blasted.

 

[bluevolume]

The wires on my Exp don't run back by the firewall. They run between the two posts on the upper intake manifold. I can't even pull the old ones out through that small space, let alone trying to feed the new ones through.

Maybe someone did this before I got it, and it isn't original?

Blue

 

[MOUSIN]

Blue,
Not sure what model you have, but i have a 97 SOHC, and yes, wire at plug #6 ( I call it that cause the other 5 were a breeze) is a bit tricky. I couldn't figure out what to move, and was afraid that I might mess something up.

I ended up paying a guy to do mine cause I got so freakin frustrated. I didn't get a chance to hang around and watch, but I recall him saying that you have to "drop" something that area to get to #6.

You might search the forum to see if someone has posted how to do it. I'm sure I've seen it in the "Under the Hood" section. Or better yet, if you're close to the library copy it out of Chilton's.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The wires on my Exp don't run back by the firewall. They run between the two posts on the upper intake manifold. I can't even pull the old ones out through that small space, let alone trying to feed the new ones through.

I haven't changed the wires on mine yet, but before I do, I'm picking up a Sparkplug Wire Removal Tool. These will get into spaces that are to small to reach into by hand. One of these should make the job much easier.

 

[bluevolume]

Originally posted by Runnin'OnEmpty
I haven't changed the wires on mine yet, but before I do, I'm picking up a Sparkplug Wire Removal Tool. These will get into spaces that are to small to reach into by hand. One of these should make the job much easier.

I don't think that I explained the problem well enough. I am not having any difficulty getting the wires off the plugs -- I can completely disconnect the wires on both ends no problem.

Here's whats going on: Standing on the driver side of the truck, leaning over the fender, I can see the three wires connected to the distributor. I follow these wires down, and they go underneath the upper air intake. (Detail: The upper air intake tube curves town into two pipes that connect to the intake. The wires are run between those two tubes.) The space the wires are running through is small, and I can't figure out a way to pull the old wires out through it. Since I can't get the old ones out, I certainly can't feed new ones through there.

That's where I'm stuck. I replaced all the plugs already, and replaced the wires on the passenger side.

Blue

 

[MOUSIN]

Blue,
What model is your Explorer?

 

[mikeinpa]

Why not just cut off the old boots and pull the old wires out. Then new wires can be either run in a different manner.

 

[bluevolume]

Originally posted by MOUSIN
Blue,
What model is your Explorer?

2000 XLS 4.0 OHV 4x4

 

[MOUSIN]

Okay Blue,
Your troubles are on the opposite side of every Explorer and Ranger owner I've talked to today.

Hopefully someone will get cha going soon.

 

[old#7]

I'm going to be changing my plugs and wires soon and was wondering what everyone would suggest on wires to use. What is the best to buy and should I upgrade to 8mm wires or is it really worth it? Thanks.

 

[Rhett]

First of all, just remember I don't have a 2000 4.0 OHV, I have a 1994 4.0 OHV engine, and while it's probably the same, I don't know of any specific changes they might have made. Maybe the wires are routed differently, but I'd guess no.

I've never heard of wires running under the manifold as you describe in a 4.0 OHV motor. I'm not saying they didn't do that at the factory with your truck but I'm betting someone else did that. Anyway I think that's bad wire routing; heat kills plug wires and if the wires are running through the intake manifold pipes then that exposes them to more heat than is necessary.

They're supposed to run around the back of the engine. Look on the manifold for plastic clips; these were supposed to hold the wires in place back there.

Since you've got them disconnected, can't you just pull them out of there now? If you had a Haynes or Chilton's manual it would show exactly how they are supposed to be routed. It just seems wrong to me to route them through the manifold area. Unless you know for sure that on a 2000 OHV 4.0 they should be routed wierd like that, I would route them around the back or on top of the engine--anywhere you have room. Get a wire set specifically made for your year (2000) and engine (4.0 OHV) so that they fit right.

 

[bluevolume]

I've never heard of wires running under the manifold as you describe in a 4.0 OHV motor. I'm not saying they didn't do that at the factory with your truck but I'm betting someone else did that. [/B]

I have pictures -- if someone can explain how to post them. Looks like I don't have the option.

 

[dogfriend]

Bluevolume - I feel your pain

I just did my wires this weekend -- Rhett Browning is correct about the routing on the older 4.0OHV: the wires to cyl 4,5,6 go around the rear of the valve cover.

BUT on my 97 OHV, the original wires are routed from the coil pack over the top of the valve cover (between the upper intake manifold and the valve cover) and then to the plugs.

When I bought aftermarket wires from NAPA, the lengths were long enough to route the way that Rhett is saying, so I switched the routing so I didn't have to snake the wires through.

This weekend I switched back to the Motorcraft OEM wires (needed new ones) and the wires were too short to route around the back of the valve cover. I had to change back to the original routing under the upper intake manifold.

The good news is that it can be done; the bad news is that you have to be patient when snakeing the wires through the small hole between the valve cover and intake.

BTW, my Ford CD manual shows the wires the way Rhett describes, but the originals were not installed that way and the factory replacements won't fit that way either.

 

[bluevolume]

Originally posted by dogfriend
Bluevolume - I feel your pain

I just did my wires this weekend -- Rhett Browning is correct about the routing on the older 4.0OHV: the wires to cyl 4,5,6 go around the rear of the valve cover.

BUT on my 97 OHV, the original wires are routed from the coil pack over the top of the valve cover (between the upper intake manifold and the valve cover) and then to the plugs.

Thank you for confirming this -- from the sarcasm in a previous post it sounded like some people here didn't believe me.

I already bought a Bosch wireset to replace the originals, and I think that they are long enough to route around the back. I'll just cut the orignals off and run the new ones that way.

Thanks again for the info,
Blue

 

[MOUSIN]

Old,
You'll want Bosch, Motorcraft, or the OEM ones from Ford (Motofcraft).

Blue,
I found this post for changing plugs and wires on the web. Looks like it's for a 1998, but you still may find it helpful. GOOD LUCK!!!!

What you will need:

1. New Plugs
2. New plug wires
3. Dielectric grease to go on and around the new spark plug boots.
4. Anti-seize compound to go on the plugs.

Tools:
1. 3/8 inch drive and standard 3" and 6" extensions.
2. Sparkplug socket ( I forget the size).
3. A 4" and 12" piece of 3/8" rubber hose.
4. Pair of channel locks.
5. Pair of pliers.
6. Universal joint for the 3/8inch drive.
7. Air compressor with a blow attachment (Not neccessary but it will help)
8. Cue tips (to spread the dielectric grease in the sparkplug boots.
9. Phillips screwdriver.
10. Small set of sockets I forget the sizes I think 8mm and 5/16" were common.
11. Sparkplug gaper.
12. Jack
13. Jack stands.

Now that you have the part gathered let's start.
1. Pull all of your new plugs out and check the gap. Then take the anti-sieze compound and coat the threads and keep them someplace where they will stay clean. I usually just put them back in the boxes they came in.

2. Pull the new plug wires out of the box and coat the inside of each boot with the dielectric grease that usually comes with the plug wires when you buy them. Use a cue tip to spread it around really good.

3. Now let's start with the easy side first. That would be the drivers side. Pull the wires off one at a time and change the plugs out. Just leave the wires dangling until you get ready to change them out. When inserting the new plugs use the 12" piece of 3/8" rubber hose to get the plugs started in the hole and snug them up. Just insert the plug into the end of the hose. It makes it a lot easier to get them snug initially and also keeps you from stripping the threads.

4. Once the plugs are in and properly torqued you can change the plug wires. The book says to change them one at a time but you will quickly learn that you have to do all three at the same time in order to get them in. Run each plug wire to make sure you don't confuse where they go and make yourself a little chart of where each one goes. DO NOT CONFUSE THE PLUG WIRES OR THE TRUCK WILL NOT RUN PROPERLY. The wires for the driver’s side are the three shorter wires. Match up each wire with the closest one from the new set and replace being careful to get the wires back into all of the little holders that are on the engine.

5. Now you are ready to start on the passenger side plugs. These are the harder ones but if you read this it will make it a lot easier. First break all of your lugs free on your passenger side front wheel. Now jack up your passenger side wheel off the ground and put the axel on jack stands. Now remove the wheel.

6. You will see a wheel cover inside the wheel well that needs to be removed. Don't bother with the bottom dust cover that can be pulled free from the rest of the wheel well. The dust cover has little plastic pull things that keep it attached. Leave it attached. There are 3 Phillips screws around the outside of the wheel well remove these first. There are two 5/16"?? I think screws at the top of the wheel well and these should be removed. At the very front of the well there are some 8mm or 10mm Screws that need to be removed. There are also 2 move 5/16" that don't need to be removed toward the front of the well these hold a plastic round thing on the top of the well. If anyone knows what that plastic globe it please let me know. I would be very interested in what that thing is. Anyway now you can remove the inside of the wheel well being careful because there are still two wires attached to it that can be left attached and put the wheel well toward the front of the truck.

7. Now you have easy access to the other three plugs.
Remove the plug boots and remove the plugs and replace the same as before. For the back plug you will need the universal and the 4" extension on the driver. You can only get about one click at a time on this one.

8. Now you are ready to replace the wires. Make a chart in writing like you did on the first set. Now the hard part. Try to remember how each one snakes through the engine compartment. First remove all three from the output area on the driver’s side. Then reach behind the engine and pull them out of that clip that is right behind everything. This is the hard part. Then start with the one in the back and replace the wires one at a time so that you can hit all of the same clips. Now run the wires back behind the engine again and plug them into the output module.

9. Once they are all hooked up try the truck out for a few seconds but don't let it run too long and heat up. If it runs, fine no problem. If you can't get it to idle you probably mixed up the wires or one of the wires is not properly attached and you should go recheck all of the connections.

10. Put everything back together and pat yourself on the back.