Replacing the oil pump

[2000 Limited]

Hi all,

I have a 2000 model V6 4.0ltr and started having oil switch problems. At first I noticed the oil switch stayed on zero for about one minute when the car was cold. Later the switch started to drop off and on when the idle was real low. Now it seems to do this all the time and has a 1 second rough start.

The more I talk to people it appears that the common thought is that the oil pump is on its way out.

Does anyone have a view of the replacement guide on the oil pump for this model. I understand you remove the pan and just unbolt, the pump, but you know what these jobs can be like, you dont find the catch until you get there. Does anyone have any tips on what to expect.

Thanks all.
Paul

 

[35Remmy]

I'd say you simply have faulty sensor/switch if anything else.

The gauges are "dummy" gauges...they are meant to either be in the "good" zone or not. One extreme or the other...except for the temp gauge which will show fluctuations.

 

[CDW6212R]

I suggest that you invest about $25 into the oil pressure switch. It is not uncommon for that to fail. The pressure gauge only reads two things, no oil pressure, or oil pressure(OFF/ON).

My 99 SOHC has no reading on the gauge almost every morning, and it comes on after about ten miles. I have an extra oil pressure switch that I use to turn my headlights on, and my lights always come on. I have on oil pressure problem, but I have bought a new pressure switch.

Change the switch first, do it very soon. If you had no real pressure, the engine would have died immediately. Good luck,

 

[Willard]

I had pressure switch problems just like this not too long ago...the switch to synthetic oil through a few changes fixed it. I think it is common for the senders to get gunk built up on them, so they don't function right.

 

[99SportX]

A new sender was $7-8 from the parts store. I noticed this problem for the first time one day after work, and I freaked out. I was worried I lost pressure for some reason, like all my oil dumped or something. lol

I fixed it right away. Now I run an auto meter oil pressure gauge in addition to the stock sender, so I get an accurate pressure, in addition to the stock gauge/light.

The one in my dads mountaineer has been bad for a long time. I keep telling him I can replace it easy, but he doesn't care. He says it pops up after a while, so it is fine. I can't tolerate something like that.

 

[2000 Limited]

Thanks for the help,

I was going to add a seperate pressure gauge bu the other problems worry me. When the idle drops real low or I am parked on a hill facing down, and the switch turns off, I also get a bit of a rattle in the engine, as soon as I increase the idle the rattle goes away at the same time the warning light goes out.

Its the engine rattle that make me think the pump is not sending enough oil through the motor.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is a whole different issue, the SOHC valvetrain. There are several parts in there that may and usually do fail. Any rattling is a first sign of problems, it has nothing to do with oil pressure. It's the cam chains either being loose(tensioners), or the plastic guides along the chains disintegrating. If you have no symptoms then you can keep hoping along. For any valvetrain noise it will get worse, fix it before the failure and the cost will be only a few hundred dollars, more if your mechanics are high. Good luck,

 

[jerrykhilton]

I

 

[jerrykhilton]

I have a 1998 explorer when i first start it the oil gauge shows good but after 15min. of running it go,s down. do i need to change the oil pump?

 

[PFA]

Jerry
I am also having this same issue. I am going to place a mechanical gauge on it to see what is really happening. The Ford book says that the switch is off if the pressure falls below 6lbs.

 

[PFA]

I put a mechanical gauge on it. It is definitely losing pressure down to almost nothing at idle. Now the challenge of what path to.take.

 

[george washingto]

oil pressure switch

it is easy to test a oil pressure switch if you have a multi meter , no need to replace good parts even if the new part is cheap as it may not be as good as the part you are replacing it with , i do not have the specs my self but am pretty sure some on the forum does

 

[koda2000]

OP - I'd start with replacing the oil pressure switch (I just bought 2 new OE Ford switches off RockAuto for $13.70 U.S. including shipping) one for my 2001 SOHC 4.0L V6 and one for my 2000 5.0L V8 Mountaineer. I've had to replace the oil pressure switches on every one of the 6 Explorers/Mountaineers I've owned (and the one on our Ford Fusion). These switches ALL eventually fail.

You didn't mention which 4.0L V6 you have. An issue with the SOHC V6's is that the plastic timing chain cassettes break and pieces of plastic fall into the oil pan and can intermittently block the oil pump pickup. Removing the lower oil pan to check for debris in the oil pan is easy to do and it's a good idea to check for sludge and/or broken plastic pieces. Also check the pickup screen to make sure it's not clogged while you're in there.

Changing the oil pump on the SOHC V6 engine is not a quick or easy job, because the lower oil pan and upper engine girdle must be removed to get at the oil pump, which is job more easily done with the engine removed. IDK about the OHV V6 as I've never owned one.

As said, the oil pressure gauge isn't really a gauge at all, it's an idiot light with a needle. The oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) is an ON/OFF switch. If you have at least 5 PSI of pressure the gauge's needle will register in the middle of it's sweep.

Frankly replacing the oil pressure on/off switch with a real pressure sender and real oil pressure gauge is a much better way of monitoring your engine's oil pressure.