*repost orginal in new members* I messed something up:

[Eric910]

I am a computer tech at my local college and also a student, despite the fact I can turn a wrench, I am not a mechanic. I joined this forum in hopes that after I tell my story some master mechanic would say, "hey this is what you did wrong dummy"!
Ford explorer 2003 4.0 not sport trac or xlt or 4x4, just the plain ole run of the mill ford explorer. Wife comes home says to me, "honey air bag light is flashing and warning bell keeps dinging". Some place with a computer spits out 8 codes. After some research codes tell me driver side belt, passenger side belt, sensor somewhere, maybe module, maybe bad ground, maybe too many things for me to order special parts to swap out. oh yeah the blink code was a 1-2. A month goes by and I keep hearing complaints so I decide to do something.
a little more research, all the while thinking,, yah know Eric all ya need to do is remove the damn bell and problem solved (I don't care if the airbag works). This leads me up to pulling the instrument cluster out (of which now I am an expert at removal). I take it apart and remove the bell as well as the air bag light, put it all back together,,, and now nothing works on the panel except turn signals, and the back lighting. The damn power windows don't even work any more. what the hell did I do?
I took it all back apart, re-closed the circuit in the light that I removed (LED on circuit board) with solder, and did the same with the bell i removed. Still no change..... I pushed all the wires back in their harnesses firmly so I don't think it is a problem there. Honestly I am lost at this point.
Here is a bit more info the night before someone backed into the truck with their tail gate down so that crumpled the rear door enough it wont open and broke the bumper. truck drives..... fine.... just no instrument panel (....ometers, gas gauge, temp, etc...)or windows...
I checked SOME fuses but nothing I checked was blown. The only thing else I didn't mention yet was that the ribbon that connects the digital odometer screen to the instrument panel circuit board became disconnected during my original removal and I started the truck (while it was disconnected) to make sure it would start before I realized the mileage was no longer being displayed. After reconnecting the ribbon, the odometer still doesn't light up.

I realize it will take someone with either a **** ton of knowledge to tell me where i went wrong, or I am missing something very simple. Please tell me what in the hell I did.

 

[HiImBrian]

You're first mistake was not fixing it in the first place.

I'd start with pulling it all apart again and checking for any missed plugs or broken wires.

 

[Eric910]

You're first mistake was not fixing it in the first place.

I'd start with pulling it all apart again and checking for any missed plugs or broken wires.

funny meme.....this is why they are known as ford exploders? The reason I didn't have it fixed (professionally) in the first place was for one of the same reasons anyone does anything themselves.... save money. I don't have the time or money to hand my vehicle over to Ford or some mechanic for x amount of days or for x amount of dollars. Again the beeping revolved around some problem with the airbag. I don't care about airbags, I grew up in vehicles with no seat belts.
Further more, I only needed the vehicle to last another year with average trips to work of 4 miles round trip. The bell is an annoyance to me and to most people, especially so when it feels it needs to ding every 5 mins for 30 seconds as if the constantly blinking light and initial tone on start-up weren't indication enough.

At this point I am assuming it might be a module I somehow ruined by not removing the negative terminal before disconnecting and reconnecting wiring harnesses/components. I appreciate your post none the less.

I took it back to autozone had the computer read it again, and now the only code that came up is a gas pressure leak (loose gas cap probably). If I manage to explode it I will certainly take a picture so you can make a more appropriate meme, as the check engine light was never on. Or if I somehow dumb my way through this, I will post my solution. Tomorrow I will check every fuse and test modules.... as soon as I figure out how to do that..

 

[HiImBrian]

You could've fixed it without taking it to the dealer. All you needed to do was search here for the codes you got and work out the repairs yourself.

Now that you went in and screwed with it, it'll be more difficult for somebody on here to tell you how to repair it because you've changed the problem.

Food for thought next time something breaks.

 

[Eric910]

You could've fixed it without taking it to the dealer. All you needed to do was search here for the codes you got and work out the repairs yourself.

Now that you went in and screwed with it, it'll be more difficult for somebody on here to tell you how to repair it because you've changed the problem.

Food for thought next time something breaks.

Hindsight is always 20/20. As I mentioned 8 codes all basically indicating a break in a circuit at 8 different possible points. Most people I spoke to suggested I swap parts out that related to the codes and see if that cleared anything up. As this was not an option for me nor was the knowledge of this forum, I did what I did and I documented well what I did in my first post.

What knowledge I was hoping to learn was maybe a lil tidbit that indicated what direction to go in. "like hey if you remove the odometer it triggers something anti-thief related, and something needs reset... etc etc.." or "hey dummy check relay #32 cause its magic." Or just some helpful theoretical ideas as to what problem I may have caused.
I didn't expect such expert advice as "you messed up" and here is a meme of your truck on fire cause that's what happens when you ignore a service engine light. You see I realize I messed something up so being told that I did isn't exactly helpful. I am here in hopes to luck upon another tried and true explorer nut and hopefully get a sense of direction. Not to be pointlessly +1'd. In a way you remind me of the buzzer. (that's my attempt at humor)

Since you own a 03 ford and have over 1k posts I assume you know there are only 2 electrical connections involved removing the instrument cluster for my model. Assuming they are both connected are there other connections that could cause both power windows to fail and meters to no longer function at the same time?

 

[HiImBrian]

Okay. I'm going to take this real slow and go step by step so you can follow along alright. I'm even going quote you just so we're all clear.

"air bag light is flashing and warning bell keeps dinging". Some place with a computer spits out 8 codes. After some research codes tell me driver side belt, passenger side belt, sensor somewhere, maybe module, maybe bad ground, maybe too many things for me to order special parts to swap out. oh yeah the blink code was a 1-2.

So for starters, you didn't ACTUALLY post the error codes or even what they were; just a bunch of maybes. From what you did write, it sounds like your driver and passenger seat belt sensors are bad. Since they really aren't a big deal, you could have just deactivated the beltminder system and probably solved your problem right there. The air bag light was likely a different issue and wouldn't cause the ding sound anyway.

A month goes by and I keep hearing complaints so I decide to do something.
a little more research, all the while thinking,, yah know Eric all ya need to do is remove the damn bell and problem solved (I don't care if the airbag works). This leads me up to pulling the instrument cluster out (of which now I am an expert at removal). I take it apart and remove the bell as well as the air bag light, put it all back together,,, and now nothing works on the panel except turn signals, and the back lighting. The damn power windows don't even work any more. what the hell did I do?

Now.... "yah know Eric all ya need to do is remove the damn bell and problem solved (I don't care if the airbag works)" and putting your wife in an unsafe car just plain sounds like a bad idea. But, to each their own....

Also, I see you live in North Carolina and they have vehicle inspections annually via you're OBD II port... That means this is illegal anyways so I'm not even allowed to talk anymore about this particular action on this forum. Way to break the law bro.

I took it all back apart, re-closed the circuit in the light that I removed (LED on circuit board) with solder, and did the same with the bell i removed. Still no change..... I pushed all the wires back in their harnesses firmly so I don't think it is a problem there. Honestly I am lost at this point.

So if you knew anything about circuitry and how delicate it can be, you'd know that the LED and speaker both introduce resistance into the circuit and cannot just be "re-closed" with solder. An appropriate resistor is needed to match the LED and speaker to properly close the circuit.

I checked SOME fuses but nothing I checked was blown.

This should have been the first thing you checked before doing anything. SOME just doesn't cut it, ALL fuses and relays should have been checked.

At this point I am assuming it might be a module I somehow ruined by not removing the negative terminal before disconnecting and reconnecting wiring harnesses/components.

As proper form when working on any car, you ALWAYS disconnect the battery before you do anything to it.

As I mentioned 8 codes all basically indicating a break in a circuit at 8 different possible points. Most people I spoke to suggested I swap parts out that related to the codes and see if that cleared anything up. As this was not an option for me nor was the knowledge of this forum, I did what I did and I documented well what I did in my first post.

More often than not, one small thing will cause several codes to occur, as I believe to be what happened here. Since you had no knowledge of this forum at the time of repair, where did you get the cluster removal procedure from? Or, did you just wing it?

What knowledge I was hoping to learn was maybe a lil tidbit that indicated what direction to go in. "like hey if you remove the odometer it triggers something anti-thief related, and something needs reset... etc etc.." or "hey dummy check relay #32 cause its magic." Or just some helpful theoretical ideas as to what problem I may have caused

Here's the best "lil tidbit" I've got for you so far.
"Hey. If you're going to jump in the deep end head first, you may want a lifeguard there. Or, at the very least a noodle or something."

I didn't expect such expert advice as "you messed up" and here is a meme of your truck on fire cause that's what happens when you ignore a service engine light. You see I realize I messed something up so being told that I did isn't exactly helpful. I am here in hopes to luck upon another tried and true explorer nut and hopefully get a sense of direction. Not to be pointlessly +1'd. In a way you remind me of the buzzer. (that's my attempt at humor)

Next time you want expert advice, don't show up and ramble on about what you think you did. And definitely don't leave out details like the error codes themselves. If you want expert answers, we need real problems to solve... NOT maybes.

Since you own a 03 ford and have over 1k posts I assume you know there are only 2 electrical connections involved removing the instrument cluster for my model. Assuming they are both connected are there other connections that could cause both power windows to fail and meters to no longer function at the same time?

Since I own a 2003 Ford and have over 1K posts I know that whatever you did had a domino effect and it will take you quite a long time to learn how to fix, and more than likely, longer to actually fix.

My "expert advice", undo what you did to the best of your ability. Put back the buzzer and LED and don't damage anything while you're doing it. Then come back here with your list of error codes. Use the search function and look for others with the same problems and error codes. Read through their posts and try to understand the problems and solutions. Ask questions in those posts if you have to. Then you can try and fix your problems.

Good luck.

Not to be pointlessly +1'd. In a way you remind me of the buzzer. (that's my attempt at humor)

BUZZZZZZZZZ!

+1'ed

 

[jprentice94]

First thing check fuses if all good next step I'm assuming your od is electronic so this could work if I remember how I did this right on an 03 dodge shut vehicle off hold od button down for 30 secs till it blocks and Wala start vehicle and see if gauges and stuff works look up how to fix Speedo on 03 caravan

 

[Mr Dubya]

I can just see the melted keys on Brian's keyboard...

 

[rmcknight]

try ctrl alt delete. lol

 

[Eric910]

This should have been the first thing you checked before doing anything. SOME just doesn't cut it, ALL fuses and relays should have been checked.

--I totally agree.

More often than not, one small thing will cause several codes to occur, as I believe to be what happened here. Since you had no knowledge of this forum at the time of repair, where did you get the cluster removal procedure from? Or, did you just wing it?

--I watched a few videos to see where the clips were so nothing was broken on my way to the actual bolts. The removal was simple enough.

Here's the best "lil tidbit" I've got for you so far.
"Hey. If you're going to jump in the deep end head first, you may want a lifeguard there. Or, at the very least a noodle or something."

--not always an option, and frankly I am tired of explaining myself. It's obviously effort wasted.

Next time you want expert advice, don't show up and ramble on about what you think you did. And definitely don't leave out details like the error codes themselves. If you want expert answers, we need real problems to solve... NOT maybes.

--I should have just said: I replaced instrument panel and gauges aren't working as well as power windows and dome light. I rambled because it was a post in the new members forum so I added a little introduction.

My "expert advice", undo what you did to the best of your ability. Put back the buzzer and LED and don't damage anything while you're doing it. Then come back here with your list of error codes. Use the search function and look for others with the same problems and error codes. Read through their posts and try to understand the problems and solutions. Ask questions in those posts if you have to. Then you can try and fix your problems.
Good luck.

--Yeah guess so. After I finally get a chance to check all the fuses (if none are bad), I suppose I will just buy a new cluster. Thanks for your time and thoughtful responses.


A little something relevant to your interests:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8T095mFdW8

Codes before my cluster f__k:
b1342
b1921
c1414
b2296
b2293
b2691
b2692
c1981
b1892
b1869

and the air bag flash code was a 1-2.

 

[jprentice94]

Usually things go through multiple things so taking the light out could have cut the power to other things causing codes and electrical problems the bright side is it didnt catch on fire lol if you get a chilton. Book it could greatly. Help you with how the wiring is ran

 

[Eric910]

You're first mistake was not fixing it in the first place.

I'd start with pulling it all apart again and checking for any missed plugs or broken wires.

Your first mistake was using "you're" instead of "your." You're is a conjunction between you and are. Just so you understand, you informed me that: "you are first mistake was not fixing it in the first place." nice one bro...

My wife looked at your post and wants to know what happened to your truck.

 

[Eric910]

Usually things go through multiple things so taking the light out could have cut the power to other things causing codes and electrical problems the bright side is it didnt catch on fire lol if you get a chilton. Book it could greatly. Help you with how the wiring is ran

Thanks for your help you're exactly right.
I've gone forward and replaced the instrument cluster (40 bucks ebay). This truly has been a learning experience for me. I had no idea that removing a single light from the cluster would cause power windows, instrument gauges, radio, interior light, and rear defrost to stop working. I read a great article that explained exactly how electricity flowed from the cluster back to the fuse panel which powered the radio which returned to the power window module that fed the next thing down the line (something like that anyways). bottom line is I get the jest of it.
With wiring like this it is no wonder they do actually catch on fire.