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Request for wiring diagram - fog light switch

crispins

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City, State
Pigeon Forge, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
01 Sport trac
I am working on adapting my for light switch (the one on the radio bezel) to control my lightbar.

There are 4 wires going to it.

Can someone pull up the wiring diagram for those 4 wires?

Thanks in advance!
 



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thank you.

the first link doesn't work but the second one does.

I found the diagram and now just need a little help understanding what each wire does.

If I am reading it correctly when the switch is on it connects the LB/BK with BK

I have found that RD/BK has power when the lights are on

What the heck is the TN/OG used for?

fog light.jpg
 

Attachments

  • wire pdf.pdf
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If this helps, relays typically are controlled by grounding one of the wires connected to them. Power comes into the relay and sits there waiting for a ground to energize the electromagnet inside them. Once this happens (that's when you heard the relay click) power is passed to the output terminal of the relay and on to the device (in case your fog lights). Relays are used to control high amperage devices using thin gauge wires/switches (like those found on your fog light switch).
 






If this helps, relays typically are controlled by grounding one of the wires connected to them. Power comes into the relay and sits there waiting for a ground to energize the electromagnet inside them. Once this happens (that's when you heard the relay click) power is passed to the output terminal of the relay and on to the device (in case your fog lights). Relays are used to control high amperage devices using thin gauge wires/switches (like those found on your fog light switch).

I have all the wires and what they do figured out except for the tan wire.

Can anyone look at the diagram and figure out what the tan wire does?
 






I have all the wires and what they do figured out except for the tan wire.

Can anyone look at the diagram and figure out what the tan wire does?

Don't have the time to study a more complete wiring diagram right now, but I'm wondering if it might have something to do with turning off the fog lights when the high-beams are turned on?
 






Don't have the time to study a more complete wiring diagram right now, but I'm wondering if it might have something to do with turning off the fog lights when the high-beams are turned on?

I have all the wires and what they do figured out except for the tan wire.

Can anyone look at the diagram and figure out what the tan wire does?

Don't see a straight Tan Wire, unless I missed something.

I do see Tan with an Orange Tracer. (TN\OG)

That would be feed from terminal #5 of the fog lamp relay (K26) to power the lamps themselves.

Also passes along to the LED indicator on the dash board to tell you they are "ON".

Fog lamp "Lock Out" is achieved by by relay (K337)
 






Don't see a straight Tan Wire, unless I missed something.

I do see Tan with an Orange Tracer. (TN\OG)

That would be feed from terminal #5 of the fog lamp relay (K26) to power the lamps themselves.

Also passes along to the LED indicator on the dash board to tell you they are "ON".

Fog lamp "Lock Out" is achieved by by relay (K337)


Cool - that is the info I need.

So does the TN/OG wire get ground or positive in order to turn the dash light on?
 






Fed by fuse #30 to a Dark Brown wire with a White Tracer.

Feeds into terminal #3 of Relay K26 with 12 VDC Positive.

Once relay K26 goes active TN\OG becomes 12 VDC Positive.

Through the fog lamps or dash LED (As a parallel circuit) and goes to ground.
 






Than
Fed by fuse #30 to a Dark Brown wire with a White Tracer.

Feeds into terminal #3 of Relay K26 with 12 VDC Positive.

Once relay K26 goes active TN\OG becomes 12 VDC Positive.

Through the fog lamps or dash LED (As a parallel circuit) and goes to ground.

Thank you very much.

I have decided to rewire what I am doing to use a ground trigger instead of a positive trigger, that will give me back the lights function on the switch and dash.

Your help was very good.
 






All you have to do is find a path to ground.

Better to be fused at your power source.

That way if something shorts out you don't have a "Road Side Weenie Roast"!
 






All you have to do is find a path to ground.

Better to be fused at your power source.

That way if something shorts out you don't have a "Road Side Weenie Roast"!


What I have been working on is to use the fog light switch to trigger my 42" roof mounted lightbar.

Bypassing the switch to have the foglights on whenever the low beams are on was easy.

However the relay harness I bought for the lightbar is setup for a positive trigger so I was trying to make that work while keeping the lights of the switch still working.

After understanding how the switch is setup I realized I just need to rewire the relay harness for the lightbar so I can use a ground trigger then the switch will still light up when activated.
 






So if I understand correctly you have an additional switch and relay for the light bar?
 






So if I understand correctly you have an additional switch and relay for the light bar?

No, I hate the look of aftermarket switches so I repurposed the factory fog light switch.

I have never felt the need to turn off the fog (driving lights) so I have them bypassed on the switch so they just operate the same as the factory switch being on (they turn on with the low beams, off with the high beams)

This way I could use the factory switch to turn on and off the new lightbar

I bought a harness that has a relay (generic driving light harness from ebay) to power the new light bar. However that harness uses a positive trigger to turn on. I was trying to make that work with the factory fog light switch. I now see that I need to change the harness wiring to become a negative trigger (I understand how to do this) then I can use the factory switch and have the factory switch light up like is is supposed to.

I will make the adjustment and I think I will be 100% happy
 






Trying to understand what you mean by positive or negative trigger.

I guess you are trying to break the ground side of the load (Light Bar) which could be a bad idea.
 






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