Reverse Off Road Lights

[IAmThor]

Ok so, I have been having problems with not being able to see behind me when I back up at night in my '94 Ex xlt. I searched on here, but to no avail. I decided that I want to install offroad lights from an old 85 Suzuki atv under the bumper and wire them to come on when I go in reverse. Could anybody help on this? I know I need to bolt the lights under the rear bumper, but beyond that, I'm stumped

 

[The Breeze]

Search for auxiliary reverse lights. Here is one of the threads that I found that seems to have a pretty good wiring diagram.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49024

I just wired in some extra lights on a switch that way I have to turn them on. Mine would blind people in parking lots and such and I dont really need them in the city, only when I am offroading.

 

[willindsay]

I put mine on a three way switch so I could turn them on by themselves, have them switched by the reverse circuit or completely off.

However you wire them make sure to use a relay don't just tap them into the reverse circuit.

 

[IAmThor]

WIll I need to buy fuses to keep from short circuiting?

 

[The Breeze]

Yes always put at least an in line fuse. You can use fuses in the fuse box but ive found it easier with just an in line. Have you ever wired up anything like this before?

 

[malohnes]

This works well for my needs.

I wired a set of cheapie driving lights and mounted them to the back bumper. The wiring was super simple: ground wire to the bumper and the hot tapped into the reverse light with an appropriate fuse. The rear lights come out with 2 phillips screws and are very easy to access from behind when the lights are reinstalled.

 

[IAmThor]

I have replaced the taillight bulbs before, but never this so I'm confused. But I think I can do it well, and I thank you all for the help. Approximately what size fuse would be good enough? I don't know the wattage of the lights but they're stock Suzuki lights

 

[malohnes]

I used a 20amp fuse.

You could also run a relay to a cab mounted switch like other have mentioned, but I found it FAR more convenient to run it to the reverse light since that is the only time I really need it. Both my travel trailer and cargo trailer have lights on them so if I need to hitch up an need more light, I have it covered. Both have their own dedicated batteries to handle 12v needs.

 

[IAmThor]

Okay thank you for the help. I won't get that done until I get my brake line fixed. A barb wire fence broke it

 

[willindsay]

I would strongly suggest using a relay to get the power the stock wires are sized to carry the load for only the stock lights. IF you just tap yours into them you could posibly bur the car down by overloading the wire and causing a short.

Especially with not knowing the wattage of the lights your adding it isn't a good idea.

Plus by running a relay you have the option to turn them on without the stock reverse lights.

 

[IAmThor]

I've looked, albeit not that hard, but I couldn't find anything that would help me. The only threads I found on here were for wiring the stock reverse lights and another one was for something like I need, but it wasn't useful for me. Besides, I don't think the wiring for 2nd and 3rd gens are the same as the 1st gen. But, I will look again and see what I can come up with. Thank you

 

[malohnes]

Try searching on the main page that deals with lighting and stereo's. There are lots of helpful posts on this stuff. Like all things in life, there are many ways to do something and it's up to you to choose what works best for you.

Not desiring to be argumentative here, but I must repeat...While I agree having high powered lights on the stock wiring does indeed place a very heavy load on the wiring made for much less amperage, the extra lights are only on for very short durations. The fuse is designed to take care of the overloading issue and the possibility of fire. For simplicity, you can't beat my suggestion. The best route is a relay, regardless of whether you install a cab mounted switch or not, but that is a lot more work and greater complexity.

 

[01STrunner]

Easiest thing I think would be what I did and wire them to a switch up front that way you can use them whenever you need to. I've found it useful for trail riding at night to be able to see the back of my truck. Anyway a hot wire come from your battery or other 12V supply to the switch. Then one wore from the switch to the chassis or other grounded metal. The 3rd wire goes from switch to the lights (load). Each light will have it's own ground which you can ground into the hitch or metal bumper, frame, etc.

 

[IAmThor]

I think I will do a switch in the cab. If I'm understanding correctly, I just need a hot (red) wire going to the switch, a ground wire going to the frame off the switch, then another hot wire going to the lights. The lights already have the ground wire, so I just screw that to the frame and I'll be set? Would attactching the ground wire from the light to the bumper be alright? I only have 4" of ground wire on each light so I'd be doing that. If not, I can rewire them Where would I be putting the fuse? Right after the battery? or after the switch? Sorry for all of the questions, I'm a noob when it comes to electrical haha

 

[01STrunner]

Not sure about using the bumper as a ground. You might be able to since it is a metal bumper. Using crimp fittings is extremely easy so extending one with say 18ga. wire wouldn't be difficult at all as long as you can squeeze a pair of pliers. As for wiring to the switch and then to the lights, yes. I would say run a fuse between both so you don't fry the switch or mess with the other connections on the battery. The $10 you'd spend now to be on the safe side beats having to replace something later.

 

[willindsay]

Fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.

Also there's no need to ground the switch unless it is a lighted switch.
I would also suggest again to use a relay since you're going to pull the power from the battery it wouldn't take much more to run a rely. Doing so you will be getting the full power to the lights and in my experience running power through a switch to lights causes the switch to fail fairly quickly.

Also grounding to the bumper will work fine I've do it on my rig.

(Not try to bead a dead horse with the relay thing just trying to save you possible headaches down the road. While giving the best advice I can.)

 

[01STrunner]

I think it is a lighted switch since it's a foglight or defroster switch which have the little light right? I may be wrong.

 

[pauley]

on things like this i alwayse like to use a switch to a relay then using the relay to power the lights. keeps the switch from over heating. just my .2

 

[tweakedlogic]

http://www.amazon.com/Tuff-LED-Ligh...UTF8&colid=KKWE5P8JYFPP&coliid=I2CBFK8BG8DHPB
If you use one of these, you will not need a relay and can hook it directly to the reverse light lead. It's only 10 watts and they are plenty bright. I'm thinking I'm going to use a pair of these and a matching pair of spots (8 degree beam) on the bumper or over the cab. A buddy has a pair on his Yamaha side by side and they are better than the head lights on my truck.

 

[IAmThor]

01ST, I was planning on using 12 guage wire instead of the 18 guage. Would it be bad to use the 12?

Will, I would like to get a lighted switch so I can see it at night. I might do a relay, depending on how much that costs. I have no job right now, so any cash I scrounge up is spent like Scrooge