Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[Maniak]

The red lighted switch is to bring the MSD box on line.
The first noise you hear are the cooling fans kicking in on the acc click. Then throw a mean shift to start. Never has starting this truck been so fun.
Those fans will eventually be started by a T-stat.

Looks nice, BUT, isn't that a little simple? I mean, there is no anti theft now. could put a key type thing somewhere (think, old corvette alarms) that would arm the vehicle so it could be started. It doesn't require a key to be "in" to start/run the vehicle, but would have to be at least set to armed..

I don't know if they are still around, but back in the 90's you could buy alarm type things (starter interrupt actually) that used a sequence of events before you could start the car. For example, you could set it to require you to hit the MSD switch, left turn signal, brake, then right signal and then you could get it to start. Until you hit that sequence it wouldn't start.

2nd thing. I don't know how many amps your fans are drawing, but if you find it has issue starting while the fans are running AND the starter is running you have 2 choices.
Find an "on" only wire (no power while in start) to tap into to energize the fan relays OR use a NC relay that opens when the key/bar is in the "start" position.

That way you can remove 20+ amps of fan draw while the starter is turning. I need to do one of those Mods on the Van since the Mark VIII fan pull so many amps and is set to run on temp only (regardless of key position) and if the battery is weak I don't want to not be able to start the van because the Fan is turning as the starter is.

~Mark

Edit: I looked around and I don't see anyone making that type of anti-theft device anymore (the sequence style). You could just wire it into say a turn signal, or maybe a setting of the heater etc. That way, to start it you would have to hit the turn signal, or set the heater on defrost etc.

 

[rookieshooter]

Maniak, i probably did not make it clear, but when I said a sequence of operations to go through, one of them was the anti-theft. I just did not want to mention how or where it is located for obvious reasons.
Good point on the amps. I'm thinking that in the next 2 weeks I should have the T-stat for the fans and they won't come on when the shifter (key) is thrown. At least there is a fan relay and not all amps going through the switch. But I will keep my eye on the amp draw for time being.

Maniak, just went out and checked the wire that goes to the fan relay and it does not have power while the starter is cranking. Did not think of that when I was finding wires that were hot to run for the fan relay.
Thanks.

Just added, in fact in post 3020 i mentioned anti theft.

 

[rookieshooter]

Before with the soccer moms keys hanging down and that purdy hurst shifter :thumbdwn:

After IMO. No worring about where's my keys miles back on the trails or left on Walmart check out ha ha.
And no more soccer mom looking keys hanging down. But main thing is that it's just so fail safe which is just one more thing for this trail rig.

Of course a testing session follows to make sure it works at all angles.

 

[Maniak]

Maniak, i probably did not make it clear, but when I said a sequence of operations to go through, one of them was the anti-theft. I just did not want to mention how or where it is located for obvious reasons.
Good point on the amps. I'm thinking that in the next 2 weeks I should have the T-stat for the fans and they won't come on when the shifter (key) is thrown. At least there is a fan relay and not all amps going through the switch. But I will keep my eye on the amp draw for time being.

Maniak, just went out and checked the wire that goes to the fan relay and it does not have power while the starter is cranking. Did not think of that when I was finding wires that were hot to run for the fan relay.
Thanks.

Just added, in fact in post 3020 i mentioned anti theft.

Yea, I went back and re-read your post and saw you mentioned anti theft (just not shown).. I didn't see that when I first read it.. Must have been before my 2nd cup of coffee.

Your fans are wired differently than mine. My relay is powered all the time so the fans can run with no keys (normal, no keys, not your your setup )...If you change your setup so it can run without the key in the on position when you get the temp sensor then you will have to worry about running at the same time. Since mine is a Radiator fan, I wanted mine to run when the coolant was hot in the radiator even when it wasn't on. It really cuts down on the engine heat when I restart the van after a short stop as the coolant is nice and cool instead of really hot from heat soak.

I do like how you bypassed the ignition switch. I'm going to steal some of your ideas there for our X. Right now, when wheeling the keys can fall out of the ignition cylinder AND I have no cover on the steering column anyway so its not really a theft deterrent. Its fun trying to find the keys when they fall under the seat and your in an interesting angle with a stalled vehicle.

I'm thinking of a hidden pressure switch behind a door panel or a reed switch with a magnet. I'll probably use a timer so once I hit the switch I have 60 seconds to hit the starter before things are disabled again. If I do that, I may have to add something in addition to that so just bypassing the start circuit won't actually start the truck.

~Mark

 

[rookieshooter]

Mark that's the way it was before I did the keyless thing. It was wired to an overhead switch, which I still have. I just need to wire it in. Yes it was nice to turn on just the fans. I'm hoping to have it both ways if possible. Wonder If I'll need some kind of diode gizzmo so current does not flow back?
The truck once it gets above 45 mph don't even need any fans. I drove back from Carlisle which is about 90 miles and never even turned them on. Water temp was around 170. I do like the idea of them off the majority of Daily Driving. I'm too forgetfull to trust my memory to turn off and on.
But for trails and slow crawls I want them on all the time. Worse case it will be hard wired back to the original fan switch.

 

[rookieshooter]

Ok, I now have the fans wired back to the original roof cab switch like before I went keyless. But still wired to the keyless ignition also. BTW, should have done this years ago. Keys are just so passé, don't you think? ha ha
But must admit that these shifter mods take me back to my Two Lane Blacktop and American Graffiti days riding around in my 55 Chevy with 14 coats of hand rubbed Royal Blue lacquer listening to some Chuck Berry.

And now back to the fans...Turn on this Switch for a visual and audio.

We know by an earlier pic that the switch works going up, but how about in the Down position? Judging by the blurred fans, I'd say they work just fine.

But how about hitting a Granit wall?
Works fine. But may have to stretch the front axle just a tad bit further forward. Hit the hook on the way up.

So now the fans (2 pushers and one puller) are "Trail Rated". Don't need fan blades flying off and hitting the local cattle in the fields.

 

[rookieshooter]

Really have to do an upgrade to these dinky PIAA lights that I use as back ups.
When I really need to light up the back I'll use my rear Hella work light mounted on roll cage but is not practical when another car is behind me.

Now here's a light. It's a front Fog light that came off a 2000 Explorer.

Thinking of mounting it here. And then build a round steel rod protection cage around it. Problem there is no really good fastening points to the light housing to attach underneath rear bumper. May have to check the housing that they came out of.
Since they're directional I'd have to make sure they're aimed right as far as the pattern and not pointing too high.

 

[rookieshooter]

Well no wonder there's no good mounting points, when I compared this light to the other all 4 mounting tabs were broken off.
These lights came off the 2000 X that I bought back a few months ago to hopefully get back running. The front valance was busted up and these lights were in the back cargo area laying in a box.
If for some reason I don't get the X up and running I got several options.
1...Make into another camper that would be long enough to sleep in after cutting behind the front door. Similar to the B2 trailer I made. But I'm still kicking around the idea of making a Military style M416 adventure trailer. They're the ones you see being towed behind the Jeeps in the WW2 war flicks.

2...Sell it to someone who offered me the same money I bought it for which was $500

3...Yank the rear disc 8.8 out and driveshafts. And scrap rest at prevailing steel prices.

 

[rookieshooter]

Well completely forget about what I said about mounting here. Must have had brain fade. Or most likely my coffee induced vision wore off.

Unless I want the same carnage to happen to the new lights backing and going over rocks. No lenses left and one has bent housing.
By the way the mud is packed in those cleats I'd say that's a locked rear and that's the inside turning tire LOL

Here's a whole lot better spot on the swing out tire carrier and its higher up and surrounded by a massive steel structure, not to mention more of a real look of an Off road Trail Truck I think some round horizontal rods in front of lens would look just so bad arse.
These lights dwarf those ricy looking Piaas which, if you can see, is below the larger ones.
Now no more lights that are better situated for backing over my wife's pansy garden.
Just have to relocate the Hijack back to the roll cage

Since one light has all four mounting points broken off. I found an even better mounting spot. Just tap these two holes on the side for a 5/16" self tapping sheet metal screw. Easy since the existing hole is perfect for the drill bit end of the screw to re drill hole and tap all at the same time...how simple.
I'll just do the other light the same way. Of course both sides of lights.
My inspection is due this month so I have to have some workable backup lights.
Now just to transfer the 1.70" centers to an adjustable bracket.

And here's where I'm at now on this upgrade. This will be able to rotate up and down when finished.
Don't need blinding the guy behind me.
Might as well use the same wiring harnesses also that you see in the back.

 

[rookieshooter]

Left side done as far as mounting. Two brackets are welded to the tire carrier and then the two vertical pieces that are attached to the light are bolted to the brackets.
The light itself has an adjusting screw plus the whole light can swivel on the mounting brackets.
Once they're both mounted and wired including relay that's when I'll take off those dinky lights that you see under the new one.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now both are secured. Can't wait to wire um up with a relay and some right size wire to light um up. Thinking of putting the relay directly under the shifter console. Be easy to check on or fix.
Another thing if for some reason someone uses the same holes that I did, do not use a 5/16 but a 1/4" self tapping screw by 1/2" long with a pointed end no drill bit end.

They sure do dwarf those Piaas. Plus they're all Ford.
Next to weld up some lens protection. Maybe no more then some rod.

I knew if that Explorer sat long enough in the rear driveway things would mysteriously disappear off it ha ha

 

[broncobra22]

Backups

This is a nice mod that will put some real light down and I could really have used them on my rig the other night...had to loosen one of my KC's & turn it backwards to keep my old bones from running into all the parked motor homes, trailers and 4 wheelers...not to metion kids and dogs.

 

[rookieshooter]

I agree, I should have done this long time ago.

Mounted the relay under the shifter console. The large dia. yellow wire goes to the #30 pin on the relay which goes directly to the Red Top batt. mounted below rear bed with fuse at batt. end.
Then then the large Red wire goes straight back to the lights. The two smaller wires are the ground and the other goes to the Hurst reverse switch.
When in reverse it sends power to the relay that activates the electromagnet that pulls a plate together that makes contact from the #30 pin to the #87 which is the large red wire which as I said goes to the lights.
The two smaller wires go to pins #86 which is ground and #85 to the Hurst reverse switch. No need to have large wires to pins #86 and #85 cause they do not carry any of the high amps. They do not come in contact with #30 and #87. That's the beauty of a relay. They just activate the electromagnet.
That dinky little Hurst switch is not made to handle the amp draw of these larger lights. Don't need an electrical fire in the console.

I know a lot of you guys know this but for many it may be their first attempt at using a relay and don't even know what a relay does.

Here's the wireing run behind swing out tail gate. Each light is grounded separately.

I think this was a worthwhile undertaking. Especially with the shorter daylight hours coming.
Now if I need some serious lighting in the field, like at the end of the day hunting and got to pack up my stuff or field dress a deer, just put in reverse and turn on the roll bar mounted Hella work light.

 

[rookieshooter]

Going to fix a little gremlin of a problem that seems to pop up at the worst time. It's that little micro switch that triggers the back up lights to come on.
Seems it needs to be cleaned about once a year. The problem is that the back up lights stay on even in a forward gear or worse in park when the switch gets a little dirty.
The other problem in that you may be in reverse but I would have to wiggle the shifter sometimes to find the right spot for the light to come on.
If only I had an LED mounted in the console that came on win the relay pulled in for the back up lights to come on. Then it be easy to notice if they're on or off.
It's hard to see, but the switch is right in front of the black coil spring.

So enter on 97 Explorer fog light switch off an old bezel I had laying around. Hey, it's free, why not.
Has a real cool blue light. Plus it has to be a Fog LED or it won't work right ha ha.
I've taken it out of the bezel and removed the push button.
Just have to shape some of the plastic trimmings and cut off the plunger. The light has a soft blue rubber cover that I think will work nicely. At this point about I've started the air die grinder with cutting wheel.

Here it is all shaped.
Just some more parts that I thought I'd never use.

Next was to find the right two wires and cut the rest off.
The light is laying on the steel rope.

Just a simple manner of one wire to ground and the other to the pin on the relay that's energized to send power to the lights when the shifter is in reverse.
And the drill hole in console and secure with screw.
So easy now to know if the lights are on or off. I quickly found out that the shifter needed to be lifted up ever so slightly when in reverse to get the back ups on.
So now when I go to get this rig inspected for it's yearly modified inspection (they love it when I roll into the garage) I won't be stumbling around trying to get the back ups on like I did last year LOL.

 

[janderson4010]

im so glad we don't have to do inspections, we just walk in to the dmv and say hey id like to register my junk, and they say ok that will be 30 bucks, and you walk out with registration, we must be lazy or somethin

 

[rookieshooter]

im so glad we don't have to do inspections, we just walk in to the dmv and say hey id like to register my junk, and they say ok that will be 30 bucks, and you walk out with registration, we must be lazy or somethin

The more I read and see about Idaho in your posts the more I like it.
When I get a reliable tow rig I'm coming out for a week to join you guys on those lava rocks.
When doing lava rocks do you guys wear Nomax shoes?
Hey, could even have the other "Old Fart" Bracocobra to join us. That way you young guys would have some real competition.

 

[rookieshooter]

There's just something seriously wrong with this picture. It's that expensive light just waiting to be broken, even though it's mounted in a rather secure location.

So enter one 1/4" round plant holder frame. Hope wife does not notice her favorite plant missing.

Using some 6013 rod set on DC- 70 amps to tack in place...I know I know girly rod. But for this it will work fine. Saving 7018 for some real welds, like the rear suspension mod soon to come this winter.

This part of the plant holder has the perfect radius. Just mark, cut and weld.

There, now it don't look so wimpy and kinda complements the tire carrier.


Been kicking around the idea of filling out 4Wheelers Ultimate adventure form for 2012
Not that I'd be so lucky to get picked.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now to do the other side. Here's my precision roller. Old paint can and power by Armstrong.

I think it's got a military style look.

Now that I've driven the truck with the console back up indicator light, I was amazed how little the rear lights came on before. Now when I shift into reverse and there's someone behind me I just make sure I give the handle a little upward pull if the indicator light is not on. Then I know the two lights are on in the rear.

 

[rookieshooter]

Well it's fun watching other guys build their rigs, but I need to take care of this one also.
As in...Make an automatic latch that holds the swing out tire carrier open when not on level land and that is a rare commodity where I live, I mean exist ha ha.
And it's got to be extremely cost effective. I've about depleted 2011 funds for this rig.

So this $2.00+ bolt style lock from Tractor Supply should work just fine.
And won't even need a spring, gravity will do the latching.
But first need to modify it by cutting the left side plate off.

Then to make an arm that extends off the swing out carrier that the latch will be welded to.
Then to drill a hole through the arm and into rear bumper.
I came off at an angle to give it more strength when holding open.

Next was to weld on the lock and the lock mounting gusset to the extended arm.
Note where the hand bolt is. It has to be made so as not to lock into the existing detents like it is now.
Hey and don't be afraid to bend the rod. I've even used mirrors for this.

In this pic you can see now that the hand bolt can not go into those locking notches due to welding an 1/8" rod in front of them. This now blocks those notches.
Also i welded a stricker plate coming off the bumper to raise up the locking rod as the gate is being shut.
And if there is ever a need for a spring just mount it right on top of the hand knob.

Check it out Click pic

 

[rookieshooter]

Going to see how the Atlas easy fill mod is going to work.
The top pic has the extended fill tube that I made up using the same style fittings and hoses . The existing 90 ell was traded for a T-fitting.
It goes up through the floor and under seat for an easier fill method verses taking the top fitting out of the Atlas and squirting the fluid in.

Here is the way it was. Did not like the fact that I would have keep taking the top fitting out.

Here's the magnetized drain plug. For the first change of fluid there's really not much metal crap on the plug.
Keep in mind this is a brand new case also, so some metal is bound to be found. That's the reason for changing the first 500 miles.
I'll check it out on the next fluid change.

The old fluid looked nice and clean.

But what would have been a PITA is a piece of cake, not mentioning no problem of a buggard up fitting from screwing in and out.
Just take plug out of the extended tube, insert the nipple of the funnel tube into the reinforced Atlas tube that comes from under seat.

Then let gravity do it's thing to the GL-4 grade fluid which is required for the way the gears are cut. And no it's not the Amsoil that came with it.
Going with real Dino oil. More and more guys are turning back to the real stuff for gear oil.
I never once had a problem with Dino oil in my helical cut gears in my race car manual transmissions and they saw a tremendous more strain on the gears with the lack of synchronizers and over twice the HP of this 302.
Makes you wonder if it's a money thing with the recommendation of Amsoil?
Personaly I think the Dino oil for gears gives it a little more cushoning then syn oil.
But time will tell I suppose.