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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

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Going to fab up two more mounting points to give me more options. One on each side of the center bolt.
Need to get the angle right to get the bolt 90 deg to the link.

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Other then shaping the inside tab, some more welds and gusset this side is done. Getting the angle right was a little tricky also I have the new bracket made so that I can use the same link with just a few turns of the heim for correct length.
The hitch pin will be replaced with bolt.

Just for Grins & Chuckles, one day I'm going to figure out just how many feet of tubing is in this build including the new rear axle mod.
 



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Going to finish up cross over bracket. Here is the other side.
I have a 3/4" steel rod going thru brackets and have the bracket sides clamped to the heim. This will keep every thing in line while welding.

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Now just to add some gussets to the back side and it will be done.
The fun part will be testing the different mounting points to decide which is better. May turn out that it won't be just one but the conditions dictate which hook up to use.
Could be a 3 pt. with just one hinge point or a 3 point with two hinge points at rear. And then to see if I still keep the radius arm suspension when it's pinned.
I really can't believe either of the 3 pts. will out perform the radius arm for street when locked down.
Right now it's just a guessing game.
But if for some reason I don't use the single pivot point. Then I'll install a Hitch pin in the hole. Be a good point to yank someone out of trouble...or me.

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Eating up that 10' of 3/8" flat stock I got last week.
 






in a perfect world the three point would give more flex with less change in axle orientation.
As you have said once you do this mod the limitation may be your coilovers travel.
You just wont know until you cycle the suspension without shocks
 






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Going to cycle it for sure.
But I need a way to load the Atlas onto the Bronco. There's just no room and I'am not gong to lift it up on the gas tank. The garage is behind house that faces the next block. And UPS drops off at house and there is no way with my bad back I'm I caring that thing one block.
So enter what's left of of a ladder rack, old receiver hitch and some angle.
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Plus I really need one of these anyway. I'll add some more sides later

The Atlas is in transit to house.
 






Ooo, goody, goody, goody! :bounce:

I bet you are on pins and needles waiting for that to arrive. :D
 






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Well it looks like the pin and needles is over as far as the wait to arrive.
Unloaded from UPS straight onto the cargo carrier, the paint on the carrier was not even dry.
If there is a set of headers in there, then it's the heaviest set I've ever lifted.

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I've never seen anything packed in such a protective box. The case is centered in the middle of somekind of foam that must be sprayed in somehow. That's how it appears anyway.

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Now you can see how well it was protected during shipment once the case was lifted out.

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This is my first ever look at this beast. Impressive to say the least.
The housing is one piece aluminum.

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May have to get somekind of adapter for the speedo cable, judging from that red cover it's larger then my transfer case. Maybe a later model B2 will work.
But first I need to read all the paper work that came with the case.
First thing it says is that it's shipped Dry, which is understandable.

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This is what's in the second box. Shifting sticks, linkage and lube.
I like their choice of lube.
So it looks like I be doing a lot of reading tonight.
If I do in fact have to order an adapter for the speed cable that will suck.
But that does not mean I can't start putting the parts together. Like the clear sight tube and linkage.
 






Bronco2guy has been running Atlas cases in his rigs. You might want to shoot him a PM about the Speed cable before you spend anymore $$.

They sure know how to pack that's for sure...:thumbsup:
 






That's a purdy transfer case.
 












It's a jeep thing. The speedo output on the Atlas is actually a stock jeep application. Contact AA, they can put you n touch with the people who make the Ford adapter.
 






Thanks DWD, that's what I did. But untill I get the hardware i just closed it up with a 1.75 freez plug. I don't want to wait that long to do the install. Patience is not one of my virtues.

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First thing I need to install the shifter base plate with the three 3/8"-16x1" Allen bolts.
Instructions say a small dab, not a large dab like I did.
This must be done before adding fluid.


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I've have the case standing straight up on it's end and adding fluid to the top fitting. Be nice if Atlas had a regular fill port. But since these can be clocked in so many positions, I guess that's the reason. After filling up with the right amount I attached the top sight tube fitting.
Make sure when you attach the sight tube that you use two wrenches.
Thread sealer was also applied to the two fitting that must be screwed into the case. They both have a pipe thread.


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Next I installed the 1/2" all thread and jam nut to shifter base.

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Then I slid the tubing over the all thread and then the shift tower that the two sticks will connect to.

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Now I'm connecting the brass shift rods to the Atlas shift rods. The instruction say use Teflon tape on the threads. These brass rods are screwed on untill they bottom out and then turn back untill you can just rotate them. They need to be only finger tight.

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Then the twin sticks bolted onto shift tower. They need to be parallel with the aluminum shift tower.

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Then with Atlas in N and the sticks parallel with tower measure for proper length of the 3/8" all thread. The ones that came with my Atlas was all ready proper length.
Now I did order a case for the Ex/B2 so that was probably why they were perfect. The plans I received might have been more generic then model specific.
There are shift buttons at each end of the all thread that will slip into holes at the sticks and brass fittings.
Also there are 4 e-clips that attach to buttons to keep them from backing out.
Atlas says to use heat shrink full length of the all thread between buttons.
I called them about using thread locker and they said no. They said that the buttons need to swivel just a small amount or it won't shift right.
In the pic one stick is not parallel, reason is that I'm making sure it shift right with no bind. It shifted fine. Sometimes you may need to turn a shaft to get it into gear but that is expeted when sitting on table. In fact the instruction states that when in truck it's best to be moving slightly.

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Now for the fun part. Since I'm doing the install myself I need to have the case sitting at the right clocking position the first time and also have it so it does not fall off the jack while sliding the jack under truck and moving back and forth.
So enter one discarded office chair that should work fine after a little alterations ha ha. This is the bottom part of the chair that once sat on floor with the wheels.
I also made it so the Atlas will be a right height for the install but also so it will slid under frame.

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After sliding under frame, i then lifted up the one side so the top two bolts on the Atas are parallel just like the matching bolt holes on the tailshaft of tranny.

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Then using the old left foot trick, start up very slowly while holding onto Atlas. The Vice grips are used to hold the custom tranny cradle to jack.

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Before I even started the lift I put the Atlas in gear so I could turn the gears so it would match the output of tranny.
Also as per Atlas instructions, use just a small amount of Blue RTV sealer on the mating surface.
Atlas is Very clear about not using the bolts to draw up the case.
This could cause catastrophic damage to case.

This is where I'm at now and with some minor driveshaft alteratlions it will soon be done. It looks like I'll be able to use my same driveshafts with no alterations to length, even the front where I made my ownd drive shaft for the slip yoke eliminator.
I'll follow up with a lot more.
But one thing is how great all the guys at Advance Adapters were in regards to ordering, especially putting up with me with all my idiotic questions before and especially after I received their product. This should mean a lot to anyone planning on buying one.
 






Thanks DWD, that's what I did. But untill I get the hardware i just closed it up with a 1.75 freez plug. I don't want to wait that long to do the install. Patience is not one of my virtues.

I did the same thing and just used my portable GPS as a speedo until the pig tail came in.
 






Awesome!! Looks like you'll be hittin the trails soon.
 












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Got it all hooked up and took it out for a ride and followed Advance instruction about driving in 2 wd for a few miles first. Ran smooth as silk.
Only problem that came up was the rear drive shaft needs to be made longer, imagine that. I think moving the rear axle back time and time again might just had something to do with it ha ha. Front fits fine.
In the pic above you can see how much of the spline is showing.
But I still took it for a ride. There won't be no trail rides untill this is fixed.

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I"ll make a knew removable side cover where the twin sticks are. This will make future adjustment much easier. The top already has the removable cover. The removable cover has came in so handy many times including the install of this fine piece of equipment. The case itself sits further back, the part you see is the adapter from the C4.

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This mark on the sight tube was done before the test ride. I'll put a zip tie there soon.

Met a very interesting guy today who came over to work on my cable
TV. He really knows his stuff on off roading and turned me on to some cool trail rides with in 10 miles of miy house. As soon as I get the DS problem fixed I'll post up some pics. He might even chime in with pics of some of his rides. In fact he has had a couple of Atlas cases.

On another note, I might be off line for a day. Going to buy a knew computer tonight. I've been posting via my daughters lap top, which I hate.
 






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There is a vent on top of the Atlas that needs to have hose connected.
I just happened to have about 18" of braided SS, a little overkill maybe, but hey, it's just laying around.
Once line penetrated floor I changed over to rubber line.

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This is not the style filter I wanted at the end, but again it was just laying around.
I'm really not concerned about filtering the air as much as I'm worried about these little bugs and spiders that seem to want to build a nest in unprotected line ends.
This has happened to me before. But the problem is this filter (gas filter) has 3/8" holes at both ends.

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So just a quick cut with my cut-off wheel took care of that. All my other vents are of this type configuration.

Called the drive shaft shop and they said they will have my new drive shaft made later this week...:)
 






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Did some easy trails today due to the rear drive shaft. Just wanted to check on the front drive shaft angle due to the fact that my 1350 had a different front drive shaft angle coming out of the case.
When the front end unloaded I heard some clattering.
lAfter crawling under I saw that the strap bolts around u-joint cups had a mark where it made contact with the yoke coming out of the case.
So a little unshrouding of the yoke was done.

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Next was to make a frame around the floor hump that I cut out for the shifters.

This will be made so it will be easy to remove.
A lot of work went into this truck to make less work :rolleyes:
 






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Wish I had that cargo carrier long ago. Picked up some wood for the basement wood stove. Most of this will be for kindling. Hey, less money I spend on electric to heat the house = more $ for the truck.
 









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that the awesomest thing ive ever heard

I'm glad you got it.

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And here is an example of more work now...less work later to work on shifting linkage. About got it done.

Hoping to get drive shaft done before week end.
But that did not stop me from taking out in some soft dirt learning how to do some really sharp turns by having front wheel drive only and locking rear brakes and gassing it.
Be better if I had separate brakes to rear wheels. Not out of question though.
 






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