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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

hey just paying it forward.

sitting in a hotel room bored- your thread helps pass the time :salute:
 



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Thats the older style DPFE on that link. You have (and want) the newer plastic style. I am going thru this exact same problem as we speak. I have replaced the DPFE, cleaned the MAF, & the IAC. Problem is still there. I am now awaiting the new Motorcraft (dy733) upstream 02 sensors I snagged on Ebay for $100 cheaper than the dealer. EGR codes are a PITA at times to run down. :(


What year is that EX? What gears?

For towing, I would beef up that rear suspension big time. A good set of 2" lift-leaf springs with helpers should work nicely. Nice59fordf100 (Russ) towed SVO's rig with his 2nd gen and the rear bumper looked like it was almost on the ground.
 






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Duh, forgot to mention 2000


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3:73 if I recall the axle codes. Hope it's not numerically lower then a 3:73. Reason is my old 97 X that I used to tow with before it gave up the ghost was a 3:73 which now sits under the B2 towed the B2 very nicely.

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Here's the sensor that's on it now. But like you say, this might just be one in a chain of sensors that could be bad.

This info I'm getting is great stuff. That's a good idea about the springs.
 






From the looks of the picture, it seems there is a small crack in the dpfe on top. Thats no bueno and will cause a failure. They need to be sealed tight to work. Unless my old eyes are not working properly and thats just a smudge I'm seeing...LOL

Oh...and yes, open 3.73 it is.
 






My SOHC sport with 4.10's and 32"s didn't really like this too much, but did pull it down the interstate. It did get pulled down on hills. That trailer does weigh close to 3k though.

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That is one big trailer for sure and then add the weight of the B2 which is heavier then a lot of people think.
I'll have to remember this when purchasing new tires. Don't want to loose the effectiveness of having only 3.73s by going to a much larger tire size.
 












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Thanks SplashMan. Seems they're worth installing.
Well went out to the steel mill today and bought 48' of square tubing. And 8' of 2x2x1/4" angle.

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Going to make up two ramps that FireZapper and I talked about up at the AFN's show.
Going to make them 20" high.

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Then I'll put one at front wheel and then one diagonal on the back wheel. I've done this with jacks and it really shows the areas of the articulation that might need to be addressed. Of course they both could be used on the front or back or just one. They're 20" high which if they were placed like I first mentioned that would be a whopping 40" total vertical flex. But I'm sure I'll need longer travel coilovers. Could alter my shock mounts to get more total vertical with the shocks I got but that would not leave a safe enough margin.
Now just using one ramp would be a piece of cake.

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Still short on material, need to tie in the bottoms and may run one more vertical piece straight down.
I'll see how it does without adding any expanded plate which has the open diamond shapes cut out in before buying any. May just grips the square tubing fine. Angle fipped over would probably work better to grip but I got a good price on the square.
 






Still short on material, need to tie in the bottoms and may run one more vertical piece straight down.
I'll see how it does without adding any expanded plate which has the open diamond shapes cut out in before buying any. May just grips the square tubing fine. Angle fipped over would probably work better to grip but I got a good price on the square

Is this what you are talking about tying in? Otherwise all the weight would be on those top 2 joints.

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You're in the same ball game. It's hard to see but I have round tubing at the same place you have marked, it's just pushed down into the grass. I also put two vertical up rights just below where the angled pieces come together welded at top and then were it connects to the bottom horizontal piece.
But the piece that ties the front to the back is the most important or else it would want to start separating the two end pieces apart at the ground and put a lot of stess on the weld. Now it's somewhat of a triangulation configuratuion.
 







You know what's cool about this? How much of the tire you can see, and yet you see no parts of the truck body. On most you would see the bottom of the fender in the pic if you had that much tire in there.
 






i google searched "bronco 2 prerunner" to get some ideas for one thats been cooking up in my head for a month or two, and the link brought me to this thread....so i started reading.

i've spent the last 4 days reading this entire thread, and have gained a wealth of information in doing so....great build rookie!! it took all i had to pry myself away from the computer lol...can't wait to see this beast in black again!!
 






taken at 2011 All Ford Nationals, Carlisle, PA


rookieshooter climbing firezappers rig

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i felt so bad. the first day i was there, i was sitting in evil waiting on another member, and rookieshooter recognized my truck and walked up to me a said "hey, your that canadain that drove 27 hours to be here. my name is....." and went on to introduce himself, but didn't say his screen name. well after i found out who he was, i had to find him and apologize to him! very friendly, and great person.

it was great to meet you!
 






You might want to add 2 tabs to the ramps. Use some heavy spikes to drive into the ground so they dont slide. Or just drill 2 holes into the angle iron legs.
 






You might want to add 2 tabs to the ramps. Use some heavy spikes to drive into the ground so they dont slide. Or just drill 2 holes into the angle iron legs.

Thanks guys

Yep, it did slid back a little while goiing up, so some holes with spikes will be added. Plus going to add the expanded metal on top of the square tubing.
The tubing was wet from rain and the flat tops of the tubing was slick.

I'm doing some fishing down at Cape Charles Va. so don't have too much time to check on this site. Be back this week end.
Also did some Wild rides at Bush Gardens and then to Water Country USA tomorrow
Then to get back to work on the B2 and get the Ex. insured and tagged.
 






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As if I don't have enough to do, as in make garage door, work on the new/used X and the never ending story B2.
My hot rod friend Gene calls me up and says,
"Hey, remember the time you told me to watch out for some electric cooling fans"?
I said, "I think so, why"?
"Cause I got you some for ya!"
"I'll be right over"

The truck runs very cool until you start crawling along on a hot day.
These fans are made to be on the engine side of the radiator, but since they're is no room unless I change a few things, there going to be mounted on the outside, but like everything else i want to be able to take them off very easy when not crawling around with the Atlas in low.
I checked the air flow when I reversed the rotation to push the air and they work fine.

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Here I'm testing one of them with the polarity reversed. I'll do some shrouding of the fan also so most of the air goes thru the radiator.

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My plan is to use both fans mounted in a way that they can be installed and removed in seconds.
I'll use a heavy duty switch with relay. Also I'll be able to cool off the radiator while the engine is not running, which will help a lot between rides.
Plus the small round one will be mounted directly in front of the B&M Supper cooler for the tranny.
Hey, they're free, why not?
 






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Can't get any easier then this to install the fans so they go on quick and come off just as quick. Welded in these pins that I got at Tractor Supply that has all the holes and then just slip in the lynch pins. Just have to get an electrical connector that slips together when I want to remove fans. It's just temp. wired for now. Still needs switch and relay installed.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/honda2nr4life/Aux fans/?action=view&current=M2U00379.mp4

Click link for a quick video. The engine is not running and those ricer fans really move some air.
You are cleared for take off ha ha ha ha. I swear those fans are so powerful that it started moving forward lol

Might just add some expanded metal in front of those fans. Just attach the metal screen permanently to the brush guard.
A little out of the box, but at least it keeps the "Built not Bought" theme going.

Of course it will have to be Trail Rated. :p:
 






nice modification. could work when not too slow on the road. lol
 






Thanks AzEx. I'm thinking along those lines also.


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Need to get some lose ends tied up like the ramps. Went to the steel mill and picked up a drop piece of expanded metal that was just perfect for both ramps with only inches to spare.
Getting ready to tack in place and then cut off remainder for other ramp.

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Also Zapped (thanks Zapper) some holes in the base so as not to slid forward when going up. Just bang some large spikes in the ground and it's ready.

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Click on pic Now there is no spinning of tires going up slick metal or pushing ramp forward. That's about a 45 deg ramp. Now remember this is not so much for one tire to climb up the 20" ramp which is a piece of cake but to have two ramps with one at front and opposite rear corners.

Could also put both in front of rear or front axles to have all kinds of room to work underneth the truck. But main reason is to check on items when flexing.
 



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Are you going to put some kind of a Stop at the end of the deck? I'm not thinking about something that will actually stop the truck. More like something you will feel if you try to drive over and off the end.

~Mark
 






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