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Rock sliders?

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EF YEAH!!
Elite Explorer
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2018 EX Sport Concept
Ok I'm about ready to lose the tupperware side skirts on my Sport and take care of the fenderwell/rocker panel rust problem...but I can already tell the rcokers will never hold the plastic again without new metal weled in for mounting holes. I figure screw it just cut off the rust and bolt on some rock sliders!!!

I noticed the rock slider group purchase thread just sort of died...but I searched and see some people talking about sliders for $250-300???? I emailed Paul Sabin abuot his but ..no reply..where are you, Paul? :)

Any new info? I just want basic square tube ones that can take a hit and be a new lifting point. Thanks.
 



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Skids for 250-300 bucks, That would be from someone that you know that would give you a break on the labor. I had some done for me and it ran me 600 bucks, you can pick the truck up by them, and they come out far enough to use as step-ups.
 






If you find some one who will make them im interested.
 






well

If I had a welder I'd just get some square tubing and get to it..itd be a snap since there are holes in the frame already. You are correct in that the rear portion of the mounting holes for the trim is rusted away..although I would rather have the kind of sliders that bolt to the frame anyway. It sounds like your angle iron idea is more like a skidplate..although it would no doubt take a good whack compared to the flimsy rocker sheetmetal.

I'd be interested in some close-ups and details of your rockers Ray, got any? I know CHH777 went with "anti-booger bars" but they arent what I'm loking for, although they seem great for rocks too. Leebo, are you there??? Whats up with the rocks sliders???
 






I am making a set for mine right now. They are 2 bars that bolt to the frame. I have almost finished them. If you have the skills to make some, do it- they are not hard to make.
 






I'm also working on some for mine, using 1.5x3" square tubing bolted to the frame. I remove my side skirts and i'm leave about a .25-.5" for body roll. I think they are going to look good, i'll keep an eye out on here and let you know when i get mine!

Happy trailes!
 






Ok, I got an account on Fototime so here's my pictures of my rock skids.

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awsome bars Ray

Those are awsome bars Ray!!

What size material was used? 2x4 with 2x2 out riggers im guessing. Are there 4 outriggers or 3?
 






SteveVB,
There are 4 outriggers . The main portion is 2"X6" , and the outriggers are 2"X2". You will notice that even though I have a 2" body lift that the outriggers are still slanted down in order to have alittle space between the top of the sliders and the bottom of the truck. The sliders stick out about 4" to be able to use as a step. The outriggers are in turn welded to a very thick piece of steell, which in turn are bolted to the frame. You can tell by the picture that the brace is fairly thick.
 






Where do you attach it to the frame?

My grandfather is a welder and everything looks great! There is one main question I have though, do you drill holes into the frame or use existing holes? If you drill any suggestions on how to do it, Angle drill mabye? Also I know you have to watch for the fuel lines but what else do I need to look out for?
Last but not least how long are the angled cross members and to what angle are they, sorry that may be more specific than I need but I like the measure twice cut and weld once technique.
Thanks Blake:confused: :D
 






Blake,
The outriggers are 10.75" long and the angle is somewhere inbetween 5 and 10 degrees. Not sure exactly. I told them that I wanted at least 1" between the bottom of the panel and the top of the sliders.
Not only are the fuel lines there, but the harness for the 4wheel drive and some other harness. They did use what holes they could, and had to drill a couple. Oh yea, they had to drop the gas tank to get them on.
 






I made some killer rock sliders that are mounted to the pinch weld (where the body and floor are welded together, where the bottom of the tupperware used to go). I made them out of 1X2X1/8" thick box tubing, flared them at both ends to match the body, welded both ends shut. They do not stick out at all and will protect the truck from a bottom hit. I did not want anything to stick out from the sides because I did not want anyone to use it as a step. On the back of the pinch weld I used a 2 wide X1/8" thick flat bar stock to strengthen it up and used the holes in the pinch weld from my tupperware skirts. I tapped the holes in the back of the box tubing and put 20 1/4X20X3/4" bolts down each side. They are very strong. As a test, I jacked the right side of my truck completely off the ground with a floor jack in the center of the slider. If you go off the pinch weld, you don't lose any ground clearance as you do when its off the frame. You could make them wide enough to use as steps as the flat bar on the back of the pinch weld makes it really strong. Just go as wide with the flat bar as you intend to go out from the sides.

It cost me $18.50 for the metal, and a case of Sam Adams for the welding. My friend who did the welding is willing to make more any size you want for around $250.00 a pair, raw (just primered), plus shipping. Its a full day job so its a pretty good deal. He has done several modifications to my truck (sway bar disconnects, relocated the rear shock mounts, made skid plates for my U-bolts, etc..) that have worked out great.
 






Hey Brian,
How about some pictures.
 






WOW thanks guys for all your help, Brian some pic's would be REALLY helpful for me because I'm new at this and still trying to figure out termonology. I could really use some pic's to help me visualize what I need for my ex. Right now I have a fiberglass runningboard/ slight fenderflare combo. I 'm not really a fan of it because it cracks and has no stability, the guy that owned it before thought it looked cool and had a custom paint job done with it on :o so if (or when) it comes off I have to get it repainted and I'd rather spend that $ on a Brush guard or lift;)
 






Give me a few days so I can wash my truck for some pictures. I changed the front pre-runner style grille guard too. Its now black instead of chrome and has 4 light mounts instead of its original 2. I made the mounts out of 3/8" steel plate because the original's were so thin the lights shuddered.
 






Pictures

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They are hard to see because I wanted them to be not noticable or stick out at all.
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Side view
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Another side view
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Another side view
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Attached with 1/4'X20X3/4" bolts into 20 tapped holes per side with 1/8X1" flat bar for added support.
They stick out a little past the side of the truck but its hard to see on the pictures. My main goal was making the truck less likely to take a major damaging hit from the bottom, which was good, cause thats what I ended up with.
I got most of this idea from looking at Road Kill's X. He made a simpler version of the same thing.
 






Just finished my passenger side sliders. I used 1.5x3 inch steel, 1/8th inch thick. I used the same steel for the outriggers, which are welded to a 1/4inch thick plate, which is in turn bolted to the frame.

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The drivers side is going to take a little more time. Going to have to drop the gas tank and figure out how to get around the fuel lines.

For all the steel, it cost me around 40 bucks. I used 5/8 grade 5 bolts, with the washers and all cost about 1.40 each.
 






ryan i can't believe your X is pretty and clean .......still haven't fixed the butchered fenders heh? rocksliders look good!!!! u should go to moab with us nov.2nd:D
 






I'm not going to fix those front fenders. When the money is in (after I build my front and rear bumpers, get a high output alt., put some more lights on, and get a sound system mounted to the ceiling), I'm going to get the fiberglass fenders.

Doubt I'll make moab. Its a bit further of a drive for me now. Between school and work, I'd have to turn around when I get there.

Who knows...maybe I'll make Truckhaven.
 



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O.K. someone told me I need to put pics of my sliders up here. I just got them finished except for getting them Line-Xed.

I have also added steps since some of you know Teri(Perry's Teri) is a little short on one end. Or at least that is what she tells me.

Here are the pics, hope photopoint will work. O.K. photopoint won't let me show the pictures so I'll just put the page up instead of each picture.


http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1166116&a=13645681&f=0



Oh, and no I have no plan on making another pair.
 






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