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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
i had a check engine light, the MAF was bad. i replaced it with a brand new one for a mustang. runs way better, mileage increased, but now when i start it up it idles kind of rough until i take it out of park. it doesnt matter if the engine is cold or warm. i didnt clean the IAC yet that was my next step. i wanted to know if anyone else had this problem.
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I didn't see anything in that thread that answered the question about whether the calibration was the same for the (4.0) Explorer and the (5.0) Mustang. It seemed like this mod was suggested so you could adapt a larger airbox for more airflow.
I'm sure that it works as a MAF because the basic components would be the same for both, but the amount of airflow may not be the same for the same output voltage. This may throw the PCM off and affect Fuel/Air ratio(s).
I didn't see anything in that thread that answered the question about whether the calibration was the same for the (4.0) Explorer and the (5.0) Mustang. It seemed like this mod was suggested so you could adapt a larger airbox for more airflow.
I'm sure that it works as a MAF because the basic components would be the same for both, but the amount of airflow may not be the same for the same output voltage. This may throw the PCM off and affect Fuel/Air ratio(s).
im going to try a few things, im going to clean the IAC, i know the air intake house was rubbing against the alt pulley ill have to see if it put a hole in it yet. worst case i will put a 4.0 sensor in my mustang housing and see if that does the trick
People always think they can play with MAFS and things will be just fine without tuning. The problem here is that you likely did throw your MAF transfer off a bit with that different MAFS and that is the cause of your problem. Just because one vehicle uses the same injectors as another vehicle means nothing. Even then there can still be differences when using the MAFS from one vehicle to the other. It truly is scary when I see you people in here playing with the MAFS like it is some sort of toy. It is the MOST important sensor in the entire engine for controlling AFR's. If you port it, the flow will change and the voltage it outputs will change. That equates to your AFR's changing too. I suggest that unless you have a FULL UNDERSTANDING of exactly what is going on with the MAFS and how to tune it then you should just leave that stuff alone, or leave it to us professionals who know what is what. Keep in mind that maybe 1% of the members on this site have enough of that FULL understanding to make these changes and be safe while making additional power without adverse consequences popping up out of the blue.
My suggestion here is to either get a tune to get your fuel trims back into check with that Mustang MAFS or buy an OEM MAFS for your vehicle and install that. The cheaper way would be to buy another OEM MAFS for your vehicle.
There are just some things that people should not screw with unless they truly understand this stuff. The MAFS is a HUGE example of that. Leave your MAFS alone people...
A prime example of what not to do. People leave your MAFS alone unless you know what affect the changes you make to things will have. Playing with the MAFS is not a guessing game. It is not a "Well if this don't work I will swap this sensor into this housing and see what happens" It is these kinds of approaches to modding that usually costs much more time and money in the long run. Engine damage can result from just changing things without knowing what affects it will have. As a person who does custom tuning and actually understands how this stuff really works you guys scare me with your cavalier approach; especially when it comes to the MAFS and other fuel delivery related items.
People always think they can play with MAFS and things will be just fine without tuning. The problem here is that you likely did throw your MAF transfer off a bit with that different MAFS and that is the cause of your problem. Just because one vehicle uses the same injectors as another vehicle means nothing. Even then there can still be differences when using the MAFS from one vehicle to the other. It truly is scary when I see you people in here playing with the MAFS like it is some sort of toy. It is the MOST important sensor in the entire engine for controlling AFR's. If you port it, the flow will change and the voltage it outputs will change. That equates to your AFR's changing too. I suggest that unless you have a FULL UNDERSTANDING of exactly what is going on with the MAFS and how to tune it then you should just leave that stuff alone, or leave it to us professionals who know what is what. Keep in mind that maybe 1% of the members on this site have enough of that FULL understanding to make these changes and be safe while making additional power without adverse consequences popping up out of the blue.
My suggestion here is to either get a tune to get your fuel trims back into check with that Mustang MAFS or buy an OEM MAFS for your vehicle and install that. The cheaper way would be to buy another OEM MAFS for your vehicle.
There are just some things that people should not screw with unless they truly understand this stuff. The MAFS is a HUGE example of that. Leave your MAFS alone people...
i apprecciate the input, but im not the only one who has done this. there are quite a few members on here that have done something similar. other than the idle quality when i first start it, it runs quite well. my gas mileage has gone up as well as increased throttle response so im not about to go back to the way it was before
i apprecciate the input, but im not the only one who has done this. there are quite a few members on here that have done something similar. other than the idle quality when i first start it, it runs quite well. my gas mileage has gone up as well as increased throttle response so im not about to go back to the way it was before
Your gas mileage has gone up likely due to that meter screwing with your AFR throwing your fuel trims off causing it to go lean. That means that while you are saving gas you also may be running dangerously lean.
You guys are playing with fire here. Like I said, there is probably 1% of the members on this site that actually understand this stuff enough to modify these systems and know the results that will come of it. I am one of those members. All those "quite a few members" probably do not fall into that 1% I mention. There is a difference between something merely "working" and actually "working well". I can also guarantee that barely any of those members that have played with their MAFS have thrown a wideband AFR meter on their vehicles afterwards to see if their AFR's were actually within spec and safe. You guys are flying blind and don't even know it.
Keep in mind that I am not one of those member's that you see on some forums that is deathly afraid of modding their vehicles and tries to scare everyone else away from doing so also. On the contrary you could say the exact opposite for me. I have one of the most highly modded Explorer's in the country. I have one of the most highly modded Lincoln LS's in the country as well. But you got to understand this stuff before messing with it is what I am stressing here. If you have to tinker with things to get a vehicle running decently then you likely do not have enough understand to be messing with that system in the first place. Playing with the MAFS is not a guessing game like allot of people here want to believe.
