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Rough idle and check engine light




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I replaced the part that the codes said was bad, but never reset it after that. I just installed it and that was it.
 






Actually, a MIL (DTC) code more or less identifies a system that is outputting codes out of expected range. Rarely does it identify a specific part. Example, a code that your )2 sensor is reading lean does NOT identify the sensor as the bad part per se. It might be, but it might be a vacuum leak or something causing it to read bad.
 






Glacier991 said:
Actually, a MIL (DTC) code more or less identifies a system that is outputting codes out of expected range. Rarely does it identify a specific part. Example, a code that your )2 sensor is reading lean does NOT identify the sensor as the bad part per se. It might be, but it might be a vacuum leak or something causing it to read bad.

the code said the EGR Sensor voltage was low or something like that. I have it in the earlier part of this thread.

I need to reset my codes and then see what happens. Where do i find the hoses to replace vacuum lines? Do you just go to a local shop and cut them yourself or something? I want to replace all the EGR systems lines and some other ones.
 






Any auto parts store would have vacuum line hoses.They come in a roll, or precut in packages. Some lines are plastic. They get brittle, and eventually crack. Motormite sells them, but you could use regular hose.
 






Ok cool, that's what i figured. Never really looked for them when i was in a parts store. Looks like i'll be heading there tonight.
 






Ok, I have had this problem a few times. The first time was the fuel pressure reg, and there is no code to tell you this... you have to figure it out on your own. The code said O2 sensor reading too rich. On my father's advice (licensed ford mechanic) with the mileage I had, we changed the O2 sensor. Shortly afterwards, I found out this was not the problem. I changed the regulator after reading about it on this forum... the symptoms were exact to what I had going on. Best way to test this is to put a gauge on the fuel rail, take it for a ride, and tuck it out of the way. When the CEL comes on, pull over and look at the gauge (even better if you have a long enough hose to run it outside and clip it to your wiper). Your fuel pressure should be 35-40PSI... mine spiked up to 90PSI when the CEL came on.

The other cause I had was a cracked plug wire. On damp days, engine cold, the thing would have a heck of a miss. When I took it for a drive, 5 minutes (getting up to temp under the hood) made the problem go away. The next damp day after I realized this pattern I popped the hood and started it up. Sure enough, a bad miss. Looking under the hood I could see some awesome fireworks coming from this plug wire. I changed it, it went away.

Back to the fuel pressure regulator... One characteristic that is common with this problem is that it usually does not rear its ugly head (CEL) until after about 15 minutes of driving. Once everything is warm, it seems to act up. You described the opposite. It could still be a possibility, but not likely.

Check fuel pressure at all RPM ranges, check injectors, check plug wires, heck even check plugs and wire boots... look for carbon tracking... you may even have a bad plug. Might even want to throw a vacuum gauge on it if you have access to one... you could have a stopped up catalytic, in which case you would have poor or no vacuum under any kind of load. Let me know how you make out.
 






Thanks for all the replies

I took it in this weekend and I am told I need a new MAF sensor and plugs/wires to start with. The guy started talking about codes and everything. 17* something codes.

He said that oil from my K&N airfilter pretty much ruined the MAF. He tried cleaning it with no luck. So I'm getting a new one and then the plugs/wires. HE said the plugs I had in were double platinum and weren't the correct ones.

460 bucks for a new MAF and plugs/wires..parts and labor. Does that sound reasonable? I know the MAF is easy to change, but i figured I'd let the pro do the work. He said that may take care of the rest of my issues.
 












Well I was thinking about just trying to clean it myself, but the reality is i have to get it inspected asap and have one day, which is next Saturday to do it. I live in PA now, but it's still registered in NJ so I have to go back to NJ to get it donw. Plus the guy seemed decent, not like a scammer.

Then I read this http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149646&page=1&pp=20
which pretty much says what he said so.
 






It's not hard to clean. Just don't break those small sensing wires. You could try this yourself. It could be done in a few minutes. If you still have a problem, you could go to have it repaired by that shop.
 






Somebody correct me if I am wrong, back to the O2 thing. The rough idle is at startup and after warming up, problem goes away. One thing I read is that the PCM does not even use the O2 sensors until the engine temp is above 170 degrees(Closed loop) and until then, the PCM runs on preset tables stored in memory. As for changing the MAF and plug wires, do the work yourself. unless you have money to burn. Its not that hard.
 






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