Hi I have a 2000 explorer sport sohc v6with 119k miles. I just recently bought it. Last Monday after sitting all night I start it. It misses like crazy for about 10 to 20 seconds then clears up and idles smooth. I cut it off. Start it again and idles great. I went to work come out and it misses like crazy then smooths out. Cut it off. Start it again its fine. It did this for two days after sitting for a while. Didn't do it at all yesterday but it's back today. Only happens after sitting 8 hours or more it seems. Anyone have any idea what's going on?
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rough idle for 10 to 20 seconds
- Thread starter jaywclark
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deweyville65
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Are you loosing coolant? If yes, you probably are getting water in the cylinder. Just enough to cause a miss until the plug cleans off.
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If they haven't been serviced at 119K, clean the IAC, throttle body, and MAF sensor.
May not cure your start up issues, but should be done anyway. Use the proper cleaners.
Throttle body & IAC:
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05078
MAF sensor:
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05110
May not cure your start up issues, but should be done anyway. Use the proper cleaners.
Throttle body & IAC:
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05078
MAF sensor:
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05110
2000StreetRod
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replace the spark plugs
It could be a weak spark plug. I suggest that you replace the spark plugs since you don't know their condition. Make sure you don't mix up wires for #5 and #6 which is a common mistake.
It could be a weak spark plug. I suggest that you replace the spark plugs since you don't know their condition. Make sure you don't mix up wires for #5 and #6 which is a common mistake.
I forgot to mention I already changed the plugs when I bought it. I tried cleaning maf sensor and iac valve but it still has the same symptoms after its been sitting over night. Although it seems to run better after cleaning them
my98nnj
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Could be a leaky fuel injector.
Pull the plugs before you start it for the first time and see if you have a wet one.
Also check the resistance of the ECTS when it's cold, make sure it's within spec.
Pull the plugs before you start it for the first time and see if you have a wet one.
Also check the resistance of the ECTS when it's cold, make sure it's within spec.
I know it’s been a while but I've been busy haven't had time to work on it. The wife has been driving the Explorer while I got around to fixing her car. I got back to work on it this week. I changed out wires due to not knowing when they were last changed. Pulled new plugs back out after sitting over night to check their condition and to see if they are wet from a leaking injector as suggested and they looked great and were bone dry.
What I have done to the truck since I bought it is new plugs and wires, air filter, cleaned maf sensor and iac valve. Cleaned the throttle body it was really gummed up. Replaced fuel filter also. After all of this seems to fixed the idle issues I was having after sitting over night. Been fine for a couple days or so. Im keeping my figures crossed. But I have another issue that has shown up. Ever since I bought it. It hasn't idle the smoothest. I figured it was just in need of a tune up at the time I bought it. But after the tune up didn't fix it. It seems to be getting worse.
Every now and again when I pull off from a stop it wants to bog down for a second or two then it takes off. Last night driving over a mountain I experienced what seem to be missing under load/jerking if I held the gas steady going up an incline. Can't remember what the rpms were at but I say around 2600 while giving it gas. If I backed off the gas it wouldn't miss/jerk but it would act like the engine was bogged down and it was sputtering if I forced it to drop a gear it would accelerate smoothly with plenty of power.
I went out today and peaked under the hood. It’s idling slightly rough. Rpm is between 600-800 ranges. One thing I did noticed was the hoses running from the intake to the pcv valve are collapsing while running. On passenger and driver side. Its also seems to be buzzing. Could this cause my new symptoms?
What I have done to the truck since I bought it is new plugs and wires, air filter, cleaned maf sensor and iac valve. Cleaned the throttle body it was really gummed up. Replaced fuel filter also. After all of this seems to fixed the idle issues I was having after sitting over night. Been fine for a couple days or so. Im keeping my figures crossed. But I have another issue that has shown up. Ever since I bought it. It hasn't idle the smoothest. I figured it was just in need of a tune up at the time I bought it. But after the tune up didn't fix it. It seems to be getting worse.
Every now and again when I pull off from a stop it wants to bog down for a second or two then it takes off. Last night driving over a mountain I experienced what seem to be missing under load/jerking if I held the gas steady going up an incline. Can't remember what the rpms were at but I say around 2600 while giving it gas. If I backed off the gas it wouldn't miss/jerk but it would act like the engine was bogged down and it was sputtering if I forced it to drop a gear it would accelerate smoothly with plenty of power.
I went out today and peaked under the hood. It’s idling slightly rough. Rpm is between 600-800 ranges. One thing I did noticed was the hoses running from the intake to the pcv valve are collapsing while running. On passenger and driver side. Its also seems to be buzzing. Could this cause my new symptoms?
Jasonx521
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Sounds like the PCV and hoses need to be replaced. I would also replace the air/oil seperator while you are at it. There is a O-ring on the separator that likes to leak.
You will have to order the (PCV & Hose assembly) and Separator.
If you order from www.tousleyfordparts.com
- PCV & Hose assembly: F77Z-6C342-AB $36.37 + Shipping
- Separator: F77Z-6A785-AB $16.93 + Shipping
I had to do this recently as well and it cured my similar issues.
You can buy a PCV from a auto parts store or online, but the specifications on the flow are not the same as the factory PCV, and the hoses are not something you can get after market. I think Rockauto.com sells a Motorcraft one "EV225", but even this one does not have the same specifications as the OEM PCV from Ford.
You have to take the upper and lower intake off, and this would be a good time to replace the lower and upper intake gaskets (A must if you don't know if they have been replaced recently)
You will have to order the (PCV & Hose assembly) and Separator.
If you order from www.tousleyfordparts.com
- PCV & Hose assembly: F77Z-6C342-AB $36.37 + Shipping
- Separator: F77Z-6A785-AB $16.93 + Shipping
I had to do this recently as well and it cured my similar issues.
You can buy a PCV from a auto parts store or online, but the specifications on the flow are not the same as the factory PCV, and the hoses are not something you can get after market. I think Rockauto.com sells a Motorcraft one "EV225", but even this one does not have the same specifications as the OEM PCV from Ford.
You have to take the upper and lower intake off, and this would be a good time to replace the lower and upper intake gaskets (A must if you don't know if they have been replaced recently)
I have the parts ordered. I'll let you know how it goes once they get here. Today I started it real quick and it was stumbling. I turned it off. Went out unplugged the pcv valve hoses running to the intake plugged them and where they run into the intake. Started it back up and it didn't miss or studder on start up. Still had a slightly rough idle it has had since I bought it. I did noticed that if I hold the gas at around 900 rpm. It revs up and down slightly around that range of rpms. Whats a good idle speed on these engines? I've noticed it seems to get pretty low at around 600 after its warmed up. At night you can really noticed this because when the rpms drop slightly below 600 the lights dim.
Jasonx521
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It could be the intake gaskets. Try and plug the PCV like you did earlier so the intake is not leaking and spray some throttle body cleaner around the upper and lower intake gaskets, and also spray around the EGR tube where it inserts into the upper intake.
There is a large O-Ring for the EGR tube, where it inserts into the upper intake, I would replace that as well. It is usually green in color, but don't quote me on that.
FYI; When you tighten your lower and upper intake bolts, be sure to torque to specification. Don't over tighten.
• LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD:
o 10 FT-LBS (CEN->OUT)
• UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD:
o 62 INCH-LBS (CENT->OUT)
There is a large O-Ring for the EGR tube, where it inserts into the upper intake, I would replace that as well. It is usually green in color, but don't quote me on that.
FYI; When you tighten your lower and upper intake bolts, be sure to torque to specification. Don't over tighten.
• LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD:
o 10 FT-LBS (CEN->OUT)
• UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD:
o 62 INCH-LBS (CENT->OUT)
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