runs bad in general

[deamon3]

So recently I bought a 300$ limited edition that has 240,000 on it and it's quieter , smoother and has more power then my jp ex which only has 145,000 on it. I was first assuming all old explorers just get loud and rickety with age. But now I see there's just something seriously wrong with it.

First off there's a lot of engine noise (not exhaust noise) just the engine itself is very loud all the time. Like as if there was no fire wall it's just very loud in the cab. Compared to the 300$ limited I bought which is dead quiet even at 55mph. I drive it very slow because the engine is so loud it sounds like it'll blow up.

It also used to run bad when I did a warm start (like not all the cylinders didn't work), I thought it was plugs so I changed them and now it's constantly running poorly , It also gets about 8 or 9mpg all the time. I'll get maybe 150 miles to a tank.

I'm not good with engines and can't just keep blowing money on random parts trying to figure it out I just need to know specifically the part at fault.

 

[huntman58]

Pull the codes for starters but it almost sounds like a bad FPR .

I hope your not driving that other ex with only front brakes on the street.

 

[deamon3]

Where is the FPR , do you have like a picture where you can circle it? That code pulling thread looked far to complicated and didn't really state what the actual codes meant just how to get em.

 

[huntman58]

first off is this for the explorer with the front brakes only?

 

[huntman58]

Sorry I should have read closer

 

[deamon3]

This is for my jp explorer , my jp explorer runs bad. The 300$ one with only front brakes runs perfect just the brakes are bad , I'd rather drive my jp truck lol.

Please read the first post better next time.

 

[huntman58]

1st off. Yes I did miss read it so sorry for that and I will edit my post to reflect that. But how you responded was not a way that makes one want to help.

Second you need to pull and look for any codes first unless you want to just start throwing parts at it.

Last you may want to buy a repair manual especially now that you own two that need work in deferent areas that seam to have you a bit stumped they can help a lot with directions / diagrams and also pictures and how to trouble shoot along with R and R.

Now if you want to check the FRP pull the vac line from it and see if there is gas in it or if it smells strong of gas. If yes it’s most likely bad. Second the FPR is on the fuel rail pass. Side front by the thermostat housing. it has a braided line on top of it and is held on by two bolts and fitted to the rail and sealed to it with a O ring gasket that just happens to be the same size as the injectors (good incase it needs to be replaced.) if you do pull it remember to relieve the fuel pressure first or you may end up with a gas shower in the face. They can go bad with a bad diaphragm and the extra gas will enter the motor by the vac line to the intake manifold or they can also go bad and increases the pressure to high making the injectors leak. Only way to test for the pressures is with a fuel injector pressure gauge and you use the Schrader valve (looks like a bike tire valve) on the rail it is right behind the FPR as you stand in front of the truck. Also a vac hand pump can be used to check the diaphragm to see if it holds vac. the FPR test it idle pressure, high RPM pressure and holding pressure.

 

[FIND]

may also want to check if your fan clutch is stuck or you have cracks in your fan. That will make a LOT of noise.... Just try and spin your fan by hand with the engine off to see if the clutch is stuck....

 

[deamon3]

The fan seems ok , or rather it's just as free as the quiet ex. If I could build on what the sound is like , it's like there is no sound dampening material between the engine and cab. While the other car seems to either contain it's sound much more , and or is running quiet enough to where it sounds like it its being contained more.

 

[deamon3]

I swapped the two fpr's between the trucks and it still runs exactly the same. However I noticed a noise under the hood that sounds like a "clacking" noise from the opposite side of the fpr near the top. I know what a lifter knock sounds like but this is much faster.

 

[BobWiersema]

You have a bad or broken engine mount.

Check the trans cross member mount too, that will cause the same vibration.

And just so you know, your first post was very confusing.

Bob

 

[huntman58]

For right now I would not worry about the sound and only use it to trouble shoot. I would get it to run better and then work out the sound problem if it’s still around.

The reason I said the FPR is you said you MPG went down big time to 8 or 9 MPG all the time. To me that sounds like way to much fuel is getting into the motor. You might also want to check your oil level and see if its were it should be or if it has gone up. If it’s up that could be a sign of two things both bad coolant in the oil or fuel in it. Now if its fuel then that would mean bad FPR or injectors with the nod going to the FPR first. this is why a fuel pressure test is needed. As long as the truck will run the test can be done. just changeing the FPR from one truck to the other dose not tell you what pressure its at or if it leaking gas into the vac line. Both need to be done or found out to see why only 8 or 9 MPG as it is possable that both truck could have bad FPR's just one worse then the other.

A very bad running motor can make for a very loud motor also as in rattles pops and other sounds that when its running good you will not hear. On my 93 with the hood up, you can still talk normal with the motor running at idle to give you an idea.

Also what plugs and wires are you using?

My self and many others have had trouble with almost any thing but Motorcraft or Autolights. Motorcraft are always the first go to ones if possible as it limits that as a problem for ruff running as the smother it runs the quieter it will run.

It sounds like you have many problems going on at one time so trouble shooting them one by one is going to be your best bet and that means time and testing sorry to say along with a lot of getting under it and looking really hard at things like the mounts as was pointed out.

 

[deamon3]

I read another post here that mentioned the hgr valve , I don't know much about engines but I wikipediaed what an hgr valve is and is it possible it could get stuck open letting all the exhaust back into the engine?

I also saw other posts mentioning motorcraft spark plugs and wires , however the thing runs so loud and bad I get the feeling they will make no difference. I haven't noticed the oil ever going up , it always stays the same but I usually have to add a quart every 3k before a change.

 

[deamon3]

Oh I also feel I should be more descriptive as far as what I mean when it runs bad. It idles real low between 700 and 500 and has that sound like one piston doesn't work , like a "chugging about to die" sound. When I step on the gas though it sounds like all the pistons work but once again the engine is real loud.

 

[huntman58]

Normal idle is about 750 RPM in Park or neutral and close to 550 in gear. as for it sounding like one hole not firing that could be plugs but again that is a trouble shooting deal were you need to pull them all and see how they look as that can tell you some on how its running .

As for the loudness of it I would not worry too much about it right now and only use it as a trouble shooting tool or hint. I know when my MAF went out or I should say got very dirty man o life mine sounded raged and loud but when it runs right you can talk almost normal right at the motor with it running and the hood up.

Never heard of a HGR valve but if you mean an EGR valve then that’s another story but first make sure you have one as most 91 and 92 do not have them and the same with a lot of 93's but all 94 have them. Yes if you have one and it sticks open it can make a motor run bad and almost choke out.

best thing to do is find a starting place and work from there so say start at the plugs and wires making sure there all good by seeing how there firing by pulling them and looking at all of them . Also may want to do an ohms reading on the wires to make sure none are broken. If all good there then do a fuel pressure test. Then from there if it’s all pass then move to the next area and so on. But the best thing to do is start with pulling and seeing if there are any codes as with out that and a fuel pressure test its all nothing short of guess work and throwing parts at it some thing that is not cheap in the long run and may not fix the problem also. That is why a trouble shooting order needs to be fallowed and why its a good reason to have a repair manual fact is I have two a Chilton’s and a Haynes as each one has a little deferent info in them and it has paid off numerous times for me. I will say my tool collection has also grown as I now have many of the testing tools that are also needed because as I said I live about 35 miles from town so just running to get parts is over an hour lost and then to its a hope they have the loaner tools also so to save time and money I have been buying them slowly so that I have them. Got to love harbor freight for that reason and there sales.

 

[deamon3]

Ok so now it seems it's starting to hessitate a bit when accelerating , and I'm getting a hot dog smell out of the vents when the heat is on , yea hot dogs...

When listening to it under the hood it sounds very bad almost terminal , like bad valves or a blown head gasket.

 

[huntman58]

Have you pulled codes yet or done a compression test on it? I would do both as that can help in trying to trouble shoot it and or working the right systems instead of a shotgun approach to it.

 

[deamon3]

Ok I attempted to pull the codes but the check engine light does nothing , just stays on like it normally does when it in the koeo mode. I don't think it'll work because my check engine light is never on even though the car is running bad.

 

[huntman58]

Are you using a code reader or a paper clip?
I use a code reader and have never used the paper clip so I can not advise on it. if the light is working meaning it gos off but will light when starting the motor then you should be able to pull codes with both if the lights not working right you may have to use a normal code reader .

 

[deamon3]

Ok I talked with someone at work any they concurred that the egr can get stuck open and cause some problems , the "clacking" noise is coming right from where the egr is too so I'm thinking I'll just remove it completely as it's not needed here anyway and see if that helps. The other explorers egr wasn't connected and just capped off where the return pipe broke and it runs fine so I think it won't cost anything to try.

I'm also going to try some fuel injector or fuel system cleaner seeing as they are like 3 or 4$.

After that I'll just take it to a shop