Rusted Power Steering Lines - 98 SOHC

[Dave98XLT]

The power steering lines are badly corroded on my 98 SOHC and have started to leak.

Any advice on how to repair this? Where is the best place to get the parts? Dealer, junk yard, FLAPS?

 

[Machine090767]

I don't mess with brake lines. I'd have a pro install new ones.

 

[toypaseo]

You can become an Elite Explorer and upload photos, or use an online photo host like Photobucket, for example.

 

[XLTrunner]

I trust you've checked with Rockauto? Would be a fraction of the price than from a Dealership. I'd forgo the used option if at all possible.

 

[Dave98XLT]

There are 2 lines Rock doesn't carry. Are there any other recommended sources?

 

[J_C]

Am I missing something or is it standard power steering hoses you need? I had no trouble finding them at Rock Auto. They call them "Power Steering Pressure Hose"
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=236170&cc=1304413&jsn=554
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=366393&cc=1304413&jsn=556

and "Power Steering Return Hose".
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=366295&cc=1304413&jsn=557
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=366410&cc=1304413&jsn=558

Edelmann is a few bucks cheaper than Gates. Up to you there, about $33 delivered for the Edelmann parts on Rock Auto which have 12mos warranty vs lifetime for the gates.

Amazon has the Edelman pressure hose for $28 and the return hose for $9, so more expensive even with free shipping. Advance auto has carquest brand but both out of stock near me, would've totaled $46 - $10 (off $30) coupon code floating around the internet = $36 + tax.

How to repair is you grab an assortment of open end wrenches, short, long, straight, bent, curved, whatever you have and take things off til you can get a wrench around the fittings. I mean it's pretty straightforward that you try to get to the top at the pump from under the hood and crawl under with vehicle on jack stands to get them at the rack. This is only an assumption, sometimes taking a wheel and that wheel well liner off helps to gain access.

When (almost) finished, after refilling with fluid you'll have air in the lines and need to drive slow turning the steering wheel full turn stop to stop both directions a few times to bleed the air out.

Don't bother with used junkyard for this. You might even damage old lines just getting them off the donor and onto your vehicle or they only last a short while at this age for used parts, when these are not expensive parts.

 

[Dave98XLT]

I have those on order but there are 2 other PS lines that are all metal that look like brake lines that area also corroded that need replacing that nobody seems to have. Do I have to make them from brake line or go to the dealer? The dealer PN is F7703a714AA and F7703A717AA (I think)

 

[J_C]

Are these on the rack itself? A new rack should have them, guess you should think about mileage on the SOHC engine and how long you hope vs expect to keep it when considering a whole rack replacement. I didn't check Rock Auto but while on Amazon I glanced and saw a rack complete with the lines, tie rod ends, and lifetime warranty for $122 delivered.
https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Axle-Complete-Steering-Assembly/dp/B01A1EJ866

Unless I were on the verge of selling the vehicle, I'd go ahead and get the rack at that price. Old rack is probably nearly gone anyway, though add the cost of a front wheel alignment since you'll need that afterwards. If you're really really cheap, in theory since this is the only adjustment being made, you could measure the distance front-to-front of the front wheels and rear-to-rear of the wheels, while whole front end is lifted, to get pretty close to the right toe-in alignment with DIY adjustment, but I'd rather not if your tires have a lot of value left in them. If you do, do that, remember to center the steering wheel first!

What I saw for those lines and am "guessing" is what you need are the following, one of which Rock Auto has in stock but the other they don't:
Cardone 3L1204 $10 in stock
Cardone 3L1205 $?? Out of stock

Autozone has the 3L1205 but WOW they want a ridiculous $41 for it:
http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...new-rack-pinion-transfer-tube/106484_0_30620/

I'm wondering if these are just like brake lines including the fittings, if you could just buy a straight piece of pre-made brake line as close or over the length needed, already flared with fittings and bend it to shape.

 

[Dave98XLT]

These lines were not part of the rack when it was replaced. I already have the ones on order you mentiomed above but there are two more lines I haven't found listed. I suppose brake lines could be made to work with proper bending if the correct lines are not reasonably priced.

I am with you on sinking as little as possible in to this vehicle due to the timing chains and rust. But it needs to hold fluid for safety reasons. It has already blown a tranny cooler and a rear brake line due to rust. Did you see my post about the oil pan rust, too?

 

[J_C]

I'm trying to figure out what they are then. Check out a picture of a Full Rack for your model year and see if the lines already on it aren't what you're talking about? AFAIK there's only 4 to 5 tube like things. The two, half rubber hoses coming from the pump (not pictured), two all metal brake line looking tubes that go from where those two rubber ones mount at the top near the steering shaft, then to both sides of the rack piston chamber, and possibly a 3rd pressure EQ tube that runs the length of the rack end to end.

Everything you see in the picture is included. except this one has no outer tie rod ends while the one I linked previously does.

I guess if you had to put old lines on a new rack previously, then that would explain them being due for replacement before the rack again. The one I linked previously is made in Detroit, you might contact Detroit Axle and see if they can hook you up with lines, with the hope that they also fit whatever brand you have. Another brand sourced from overseas you might not be so lucky getting parts from, and/or shipping would be high.

 

[Dave98XLT]

Those lines in the picture or the ones I'm looking for that's not how I remembered it when I replace the rack but yes that's what's needed since I've been running synthetic fluid in the rack I'd rather not have to replace the whole thing but if I have to I will thanks for the help

 

[Dave98XLT]

A trick I learned on front end alignments when I replaced this rack and some tie rod ends is to count the number of turns to unscrew the tie rod end from the rack and reinstall the same number of turns. Saves an alignment. More accurate and easier than measuring tires. New and old rack were identical dimensions. Same with new and old tie rod end.

One other thought is there are 3 metal lines as crispy from rust as a breadstick. Two are easily accessible with the rack in place but the 3rd is behind the rack and will take removal of the rack if I could find the part separately.

Corossion has made a mess of all of the hardlines on this vehicle as well as the rockers. The frame is still strong except for the spare tire carrier.

 

[J_C]

Counting # of turns is a good idea but I don't necessarily trust doing only that, especially if a different brand of replacement tie rod & ends. I'd rather do both that and measure tires.

I didn't find any source for the 3rd line that goes end to end, but it's another you could contact a manufacturer and ask about, or another case where you could pull the rack to better see what you're dealing with, if there is a chance you or someone else could custom make a line but I think when all is said and done it creeps up even closer to the price of the new full rack which also saves time since you'd have to pull the old anyway, Edit: except that if the old is put back on there should be no need for a wheel alignment.

 

[Eddie Bauer Blue]

Rust ? Yikes !

I had a lot of these same automotive problems due to rust corrosion having lived once upon a time in the great road salt state of Newyorkistan. My early 'rat rod used cars' had little of any solid floors or fenders left, due to corrosion and because of budget dictates, learning to replace various parts myself like blown brake lines, shocks, frozen wheel stud nuts was a real challenge to me as a newbie decades ago before i learned that much penetrating oil, & torch heat were to become my best helpers.

Additionally finding a car or truck that was not corroded in the first place from someplace far removed from the north east was the best bet for family safe and easy to work on vehicles.

No matter what a cheap "gotta buy this one" bargain they may seem at first, a severely corroded vehicle can be big time trouble in the long run and countless headaches in the short term. Thats my experience.

 

[1997XLTRollover]

I'm no help here but I'm in the same boat. I've already replaced all my brake hard lines and tranny lines when they started to leak a day after I got the vehicle. The only ones left are the ones on the rack that I fear could start leaking any day now. I do hate the northeast. My rockers are gone on my ex too. And as said above holes clean through the floor boards on my f150. Rust kills vehicles up here, not mileage.

 

[koda2000]

I grew up in Connecticut. Rust was just a fact of life. Back in those day I could afford to buy a new vehicle every 2-5 years. I was transferred to Georgia in the early 90's. Now that I'm retired and on a fixed income I buy used vehicles. I amazes me every time I work on my 15-19 year old vehicles that there is zero rust on anything. Damn salt! It's a killer.

 

[J_C]

Yeah I got rid of a unibody car when the rust got so bad that it was getting difficult to find places to jack it up. Jack stands don't help much if you don't trust the metal they're sitting under. Same car previously had a front strut's spring seat welds rust and break off while driving, so the spring fell and the front end weight was sitting on the tire. That was fun. Ironically the car had no rust on the top or sides of the body besides a minor amount on rocker panels.

 

[Dave98XLT]

Well I need a replacement 4WD but it will take a while to find a nice one.

I had my friendly mechanic take care of the PS line problem after I rounded up the parts. I had to buy a rebuilt rack and the pressure and return lines. Rather than replacing the rack I used the lines from the rebuilt. I don't know what to do with the rack now, they won't take it back except as a core. The pressure line was a little different (requires rerouting) and I found this post helpful:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?attachments/pressureps-line-jpg.49299/

What's next?

 

[96eb96]

Years ago all those tubes on the rack were definitely available from the dealer. I think I got them in 2007, who knows knows now, but you can call ford and find out. If you can find the tubes put them on the rack and return it.

 

[96eb96]

Rust ? Yikes !

I had a lot of these same automotive problems due to rust corrosion having lived once upon a time in the great road salt state of Newyorkistan. My early 'rat rod used cars' had little of any solid floors or fenders left, due to corrosion and because of budget dictates, learning to replace various parts myself like blown brake lines, shocks, frozen wheel stud nuts was a real challenge to me as a newbie decades ago before i learned that much penetrating oil, & torch heat were to become my best helpers.

Additionally finding a car or truck that was not corroded in the first place from someplace far removed from the north east was the best bet for family safe and easy to work on vehicles.

No matter what a cheap "gotta buy this one" bargain they may seem at first, a severely corroded vehicle can be big time trouble in the long run and countless headaches in the short term. Thats my experience.

Yup, and even those undercarriage washes are no guarantee. I see cars that are a handful of years old with rust starting. Especially dodge trucks! I see 5 yo dodge trucks with more rust than my 20yo ex. I bet many people scrap great cars when they see a bit of rust. Even one winter of salt can start the ball rolling.

In NY Either you have people buying new cars every 3 years or rednecks holding on to their 25yo rust buckets.

Most of the repairs on my ex are rust related. I saw a 96 Ex at a dealer, it was from Arizona, looked under it and it could be mistaken for something new or maybe a few months old in the summer here.