Rickter Spatz
Member
- Joined
- September 2, 2003
- Messages
- 29
- Reaction score
- 7
- City, State
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '98 EB 4.0 SOHC
1. ’98 EB SOHC where the back was sagging a bit and existing shackles looked bad.
Warrior 153 shackles arrived. Jacked up rear – high-ish. Placed jack stands under frame just forward of front leaf spring mounts, both sides. Let pumpkin and wheels down. I’m using a block off wood between floor jack and pumpkin. Then freaked about the tension of leaf springs (although no one has indicated it is an issue) and raised the pumpkin just a bit.
2. Started on left lower bolt. Turned right off (everything has been PB Blasted for a week and I wouold put the wrench on there and give it a little forward and back just for kicks). Had to drive out bolt using BFH. Prior to doing this could feel the leaf spring was free – by just pulling and pushing on it when bolt still in. Similar for top bolt although this one slid out easier. Hit all mounting points for just a second with drill and wire wheel, for no reason really – just scratching off some rust maybe. Slathered on grease although hadn’t read this anywhere – other than anti-seize. Bolted long end of Warrior 153 to frame, bolt head oriented to the outside of truck. Rotated shackle down – leaf spring too high for the lower shackle bolt hole. First raised the axle to try for better alignment – no help, then lowered – better. Kind of laid back, two hands on leaf spring pulling down to meet lower shackle hole – shackle must be rotated and lined up such that it’s ready to receive bolt. Used the inside of left knee to hold the bolt in shackle hole. Took a few attempts but eventually knee shoved bolt in far enough I could let go of spring and use hammer to get bolt in.
3. Same for other side except un-hung stock tailpipe and zip tied up and out of the way. Same: bottom bolt had to be driven out, top I could pull out by hand. Used same knee technique getting lower bolt in. Didn’t tighten much – 20-30ft lbs as instructions said the lock bolts wouldn’t come off and I want that connection to move freely. Did not have the spare tire on while doing this.
4. Measuring from floor to bottom of wheel well (Eddie Bauer trim) the 153’s gave my ’98 SOHC right at 1 ¼” lift and adding the spare took back an 1/8th (roughly I ain’t no carpenter). My front driver’s side TT was turned it farther then passenger’s which isn’t uncommon from what I’ve read. It had something like 8 threads showing and the passenger’s side 15. Gave them both two full rotations, with front wheels off the ground, and gave the driver’s and extra half turn or more as it was ¼ to 1/8 inch lower than passenger’s side.
5. Bounced up and down on the rear, wasn’t sure how to ‘jounce’ the front as I’ve read Ford recommends after/in between adjusting front TT’s. Probably we need to drive over some curbs repeatedly – I mean ‘jounce’ doesn’t sound like ‘tickle’! …just kidding. The TT bolts weren’t too hard to turn but I did use my biggest wrench and had been PB Blasting them for 3 days at least. Again, I’m measuring from floor to bottom of wheel well trim on Eddie Bauer – lined thru center of wheel – and getting 34 ½” on both rears and 34 ¼” driver’s front and 34 ½” passenger front.
6. The steering seems a tad different but the steering wheel doesn’t seem particularly out of line. No sounds from front or CV. Could be my imagination but I thought I felt tiny, micro vibrations in steer wheel but I bet I’m just paranoid. May or may not try to level up the driver’s front more – don’t really care unless it’s noticeable. Will take for alignment check sometime this week. Don’t drive much other than local errands.
7. I was also PB blasting the TT bars themselves, both ends. Rusty here in Iowa. My bars are the B’s I think – I pulled the stickers off and photo’d them. LUB F57A-BC driver’s and RUB F57a-BC passenger. I’ve not gone thru all the recalls but previous owner was the type to do so, so I bet these are replacements – although they are a bit rusty at front ends. No strange sounds yet and ride doesn’t seem much different at all but I’m no expert in that either. Don’t do any off roading other than our farm field in SW Iowa when I’m there and that’s just creeping thru checking stuff out. It's not really a noticeable lift visually, I don't think but I do drive over some dirt roads in SW Iowa where farm equipment and can have pretty rutted up and moon-scape like and might as well have a little clearance. Oh and I’ve got new Sensatracts all around and replaced the ‘fifth’ shock from rear axle to body. Those shackles really do flatten out the leaf springs but again, not noticing a ride difference yet.
8. THANKS to the site and all the great contributors! Can't say this enough. Two more regular maintenance/repair type things I’m going to try probably this week are muffler (before and after looks good still but muff is split down the side) and rear brakes including emergency/parking brake. Thanks again everybody – site admins and contributors!
-m
Warrior 153 shackles arrived. Jacked up rear – high-ish. Placed jack stands under frame just forward of front leaf spring mounts, both sides. Let pumpkin and wheels down. I’m using a block off wood between floor jack and pumpkin. Then freaked about the tension of leaf springs (although no one has indicated it is an issue) and raised the pumpkin just a bit.
2. Started on left lower bolt. Turned right off (everything has been PB Blasted for a week and I wouold put the wrench on there and give it a little forward and back just for kicks). Had to drive out bolt using BFH. Prior to doing this could feel the leaf spring was free – by just pulling and pushing on it when bolt still in. Similar for top bolt although this one slid out easier. Hit all mounting points for just a second with drill and wire wheel, for no reason really – just scratching off some rust maybe. Slathered on grease although hadn’t read this anywhere – other than anti-seize. Bolted long end of Warrior 153 to frame, bolt head oriented to the outside of truck. Rotated shackle down – leaf spring too high for the lower shackle bolt hole. First raised the axle to try for better alignment – no help, then lowered – better. Kind of laid back, two hands on leaf spring pulling down to meet lower shackle hole – shackle must be rotated and lined up such that it’s ready to receive bolt. Used the inside of left knee to hold the bolt in shackle hole. Took a few attempts but eventually knee shoved bolt in far enough I could let go of spring and use hammer to get bolt in.
3. Same for other side except un-hung stock tailpipe and zip tied up and out of the way. Same: bottom bolt had to be driven out, top I could pull out by hand. Used same knee technique getting lower bolt in. Didn’t tighten much – 20-30ft lbs as instructions said the lock bolts wouldn’t come off and I want that connection to move freely. Did not have the spare tire on while doing this.
4. Measuring from floor to bottom of wheel well (Eddie Bauer trim) the 153’s gave my ’98 SOHC right at 1 ¼” lift and adding the spare took back an 1/8th (roughly I ain’t no carpenter). My front driver’s side TT was turned it farther then passenger’s which isn’t uncommon from what I’ve read. It had something like 8 threads showing and the passenger’s side 15. Gave them both two full rotations, with front wheels off the ground, and gave the driver’s and extra half turn or more as it was ¼ to 1/8 inch lower than passenger’s side.
5. Bounced up and down on the rear, wasn’t sure how to ‘jounce’ the front as I’ve read Ford recommends after/in between adjusting front TT’s. Probably we need to drive over some curbs repeatedly – I mean ‘jounce’ doesn’t sound like ‘tickle’! …just kidding. The TT bolts weren’t too hard to turn but I did use my biggest wrench and had been PB Blasting them for 3 days at least. Again, I’m measuring from floor to bottom of wheel well trim on Eddie Bauer – lined thru center of wheel – and getting 34 ½” on both rears and 34 ¼” driver’s front and 34 ½” passenger front.
6. The steering seems a tad different but the steering wheel doesn’t seem particularly out of line. No sounds from front or CV. Could be my imagination but I thought I felt tiny, micro vibrations in steer wheel but I bet I’m just paranoid. May or may not try to level up the driver’s front more – don’t really care unless it’s noticeable. Will take for alignment check sometime this week. Don’t drive much other than local errands.
7. I was also PB blasting the TT bars themselves, both ends. Rusty here in Iowa. My bars are the B’s I think – I pulled the stickers off and photo’d them. LUB F57A-BC driver’s and RUB F57a-BC passenger. I’ve not gone thru all the recalls but previous owner was the type to do so, so I bet these are replacements – although they are a bit rusty at front ends. No strange sounds yet and ride doesn’t seem much different at all but I’m no expert in that either. Don’t do any off roading other than our farm field in SW Iowa when I’m there and that’s just creeping thru checking stuff out. It's not really a noticeable lift visually, I don't think but I do drive over some dirt roads in SW Iowa where farm equipment and can have pretty rutted up and moon-scape like and might as well have a little clearance. Oh and I’ve got new Sensatracts all around and replaced the ‘fifth’ shock from rear axle to body. Those shackles really do flatten out the leaf springs but again, not noticing a ride difference yet.
8. THANKS to the site and all the great contributors! Can't say this enough. Two more regular maintenance/repair type things I’m going to try probably this week are muffler (before and after looks good still but muff is split down the side) and rear brakes including emergency/parking brake. Thanks again everybody – site admins and contributors!
-m
