Sealed Power timing chain kits vs Cloyes or OEM Ford quality? | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Sealed Power timing chain kits vs Cloyes or OEM Ford quality?

Its simple i just a empty paint ball co2 tank or just a o2 tank I installed some t fittings so I can have a pressure gauge
a Schrader valve for draining the tank or adding air
I used a brass t fitting on the engine oil pressure switch port for oil supply and the dash gauge
The 2-3 psi air is your spring the tank is 1qt
The solenoid is a one way valve so the Pressure can always enter the tank but can't get out till you press the button on the dash
Hold the button down till the gauge pops up then start
The high cold oil pressure will be forced into the tank compressing the air and ready for the next start
Works every time all the time

I have a 30sec time delay off relay $10 on Amazon connect it to key power
This makes it automated just by the turn of the key Which is mint
Thanks for your reply, with my LandRover disco 3, I have an air bag suspension so I have air. One thing that I’m a bit puzzled with is when I pulled the tensioner from the rear timing chain, four days after the chain failed, it was still holding pressure when I tried to decompares it by hand it was impossible, there was no give no slack, it was pumped up tight, the only time it released was when I compressed it in the vice, is that normal?, or is there a blocked port?, under normal operation do these tensioners normally decompress when the motor is off, hence the need for a pre oiler. Can a faulty tensioner over tension a chain cartridge causing the cartridge to fail?.
 



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Your tensioner is fine ..likely
Its how the whole system works that's flawed

Oil pressure drops when the engine is shut off
The tensioner is still full of oil .....hard
Then gravity helps the oil to drain out over a hour or two
Then
You come to start it
No oil pressure
No oil in the tensioner
= rattle till the tensioner gets pumped up
It only takes one rattle event to break a guide
THEN you hear the rattle

Manual tensioners or a preoiler solves this problem

Manual tensioners or a preoiler on a NEW engine basically bullet proofs it

I like the preoiler because it does so much more than just prime the tensioner s
It floats the bearings ECT.. As if the engine was never shutdown

Plus its cool to hear the sound of all the air being pushed out inside the engine :)
 






@Samgraybeard Post #33. The manual tensioners worked for me. I'm the first in the lower 48 in the U.S.A. documented using the manual tensioners as a replacement for the hydraulic ones...
 






^^ he ant lying
 






Your tensioner is fine ..likely
Its how the whole system works that's flawed

Oil pressure drops when the engine is shut off
The tensioner is still full of oil .....hard
Then gravity helps the oil to drain out over a hour or two
Then
You come to start it
No oil pressure
No oil in the tensioner
= rattle till the tensioner gets pumped up
It only takes one rattle event to break a guide
THEN you hear the rattle

Manual tensioners or a preoiler solves this problem

Manual tensioners or a preoiler on a NEW engine basically bullet proofs it

I like the preoiler because it does so much more than just prime the tensioner s
It floats the bearings ECT.. As if the engine was never shutdown

Plus its cool to hear the sound of all the air being pushed out inside the engine :)
Thanks, that goes some way to explaining how the new Cloyes timing chain cassette slide plastic came apart, causing the chain to try to jump the sprocket and snapped.
 






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