Sealed Power timing chain kits vs Cloyes or OEM Ford quality? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Sealed Power timing chain kits vs Cloyes or OEM Ford quality?

Cloyes has been suspect to me since the early 80's, I bought a roller timing chain set that was not as advertised. I chose a timing set based on brands and features, #1 priority being a true seamless roller chain. Theirs came with cheap rollers with seams in them, the old cheap design was to fold steel into a round tube and cut it, leaving a seam. Never buy a timing chain with seamed rollers, or the older link style prior design, those are weak and not suitable for long term use. I returned that Cloyes timing set, and never bought any other parts made by them.

Brands change, they get better or worse, you have to watch them and any reviews of their parts. Dorman is becoming a needed parts source, they aren't that great, but the make some parts that are not available from anywhere else.

For the aging 4.0 Fords, some people need to start to investigate the swap possibilities of newer Ford engines. The newer 3.5 and 3.7 are very light V6's versus older Fords, the block itself is all aluminum. Being smaller, they may fit in some older chassis, that's the test we need answers to.
 



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For the aging 4.0 Fords, some people need to start to investigate the swap possibilities of newer Ford engines. The newer 3.5 and 3.7 are very light V6's versus older Fords, the block itself is all aluminum. Being smaller, they may fit in some older chassis, that's the test we need answers to.
Plus, they come with a six speed manual or the 6R80 transmissions. Either is a massive improvement from about any transmission mated to a 4.0L SOHC engine.
 






I bet the electrical troubles would suck. Worth looking into though.
 






I don't mind electrical
One wire at a time:)
 






One of these power trains in a 2WD Ranger would be a blast.
 






My rear timing chain has failed after 100ks I purchased a Cloyes kit on line and on receiving it noticed it differed from the photo, the rear cartridge had a different cartridge to the one in the photo so I contacted Cloyes and sent photos, to there credit I received a prompt response from there technical department saying it most likely was there’s, I also noticed the chains supplied were sloppy in the links however they were installed, now here’s the thing when the factory Ford timing chain failed it bent six exhaust valves and the camshaft and didn’t break, it looks as good as the day it was installed, the Cloyes on the other hand snapped and no valves or camshaft were damaged so this proves the Cloyes chains are of a lesser quality than original Ford that are marked Italy. I’m still to find out what caused the chain to snap, the motor was idling for 10 minutes when the chain snapped.
Just an up date, I inspected the rear LH bank timing chain tensioner, it was fully charged with oil and fully extended we couldn’t manually compress it, we placed it in a vice and only then did it decompress, what this shows me is 1. The oil pump that supplied the oil pressure was working fine. 2. The tensioner didn’t bleed down at idle, the fact that it was fully extended lends me to believe that the cartridge came apart while the motor was running and caused the chain to loose tension and jump the sprocket before it broke. My guess is there a design fault with the Cloyes latest designed timing cartridge this cartridge was the one supplied in the kit that was sent to me, it wasn’t the one that was advertised in the kit that I thought I was getting witch is still being advertised on Amazon.
 






Lmao the whole engine is a design flaw
 






Just an up date, I inspected the rear LH bank timing chain tensioner, it was fully charged with oil and fully extended we couldn’t manually compress it, we placed it in a vice and only then did it decompress, what this shows me is 1. The oil pump that supplied the oil pressure was working fine. 2. The tensioner didn’t bleed down at idle, the fact that it was fully extended lends me to believe that the cartridge came apart while the motor was running and caused the chain to loose tension and jump the sprocket before it broke. My guess is there a design fault with the Cloyes latest designed timing cartridge this cartridge was the one supplied in the kit that was sent to me, it wasn’t the one that was advertised in the kit that I thought I was getting witch is still being advertised on Amazon.
Hi I just found a YouTube video on a design fault they found with a 4L V6 oil pump fitted to a Ford Mustang when the oil pump was removed they found that the relief valve galley plug that is pressed into the oil pump can be dislodged and distort the plastic siphon tube and allow it to vent to atmosphere

072DC50E-A931-40E8-8740-19AE7311F8E7.jpeg
 






Hi I just found a YouTube video on a design fault they found with a 4L V6 oil pump fitted to a Ford Mustang when the oil pump was removed they found that the relief valve galley plug that is pressed into the oil pump can be dislodged and distort the plastic siphon tube and allow it to vent to atmosphere

View attachment 341519
 






Hi I just found a YouTube video on a design fault they found with a 4L V6 oil pump fitted to a Ford Mustang when the oil pump was removed they found that the relief valve galley plug that is pressed into the oil pump can be dislodged and distort the plastic siphon tube and allow it to vent to atmosphere

View attachment 341519
Hi I found this whilst looking for alternative timing tensioners, it appears that Polaris has been using a Ford 4L V6 right hand bank hydraulic tensioner and surprise, surprise Thbeen failing and the following article confirms what other have found in these forum’.

FF8B1ED9-6F2C-4DD4-9F19-448ABB41C398.jpeg
 






Hi I found this whilst looking for alternative timing tensioners, it appears that Polaris has been using a Ford 4L V6 right hand bank hydraulic tensioner and surprise, surprise Thbeen failing and the following article confirms what other have found in these forum’.

View attachment 341621

Here’s another:
 






I replaced mine the other day. One had 150k on it and the other had 120k. I didn’t realize how noisy the valvetrain was getting until I replaced them. It is SILENT now. Engine sounds great.

I’ll go to mechanical tensioners one of these days
 






I replaced mine the other day. One had 150k on it and the other had 120k. I didn’t realize how noisy the valvetrain was getting until I replaced them. It is SILENT now. Engine sounds great.

I’ll go to mechanical tensioners one of these days
I’ve ordered these from the states

F62EC2C5-7103-4771-9A57-FD64638558BE.jpeg
 












@donalds is the man when it comes to pre-oilers
 






The pre-oiler is the best thing you can do for the SOHC for long term use. Having oil pressure before the engine starts each time will help a ton.
 






The pre oiler solves a lot of issues - I have broken cassettes both front and rear and this eliminates the rattle - I spent about 400 on it
 












You can make your own out of a paintball gun c02 tank valve brass etc...that's a lot less flashy and less expensive
If your using the manual tensioner s then you don't need a preoiler

View attachment 341643
Thanks, sounds like a plan, I’ve got a couple of Soadastream CO2 bottles I can use a accumulators, could you post the schematic. I’ve worked on Forklifts with accumulators fitted to the power steering. they are fitted there as a preventative measure in- case of loss of power.Thanks again.
 



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Thanks, sounds like a plan, I’ve got a couple of Soadastream CO2 bottles I can use a accumulators, could you post the schematic. I’ve worked on Forklifts with accumulators fitted to the power steering. they are fitted there as a preventative measure in- case of loss of power.Thanks again.
Its simple i just a empty paint ball co2 tank or just a o2 tank I installed some t fittings so I can have a pressure gauge
a Schrader valve for draining the tank or adding air
I used a brass t fitting on the engine oil pressure switch port for oil supply and the dash gauge
The 2-3 psi air is your spring the tank is 1qt
The solenoid is a one way valve so the Pressure can always enter the tank but can't get out till you press the button on the dash
Hold the button down till the gauge pops up then start
The high cold oil pressure will be forced into the tank compressing the air and ready for the next start
Works every time all the time

I have a 30sec time delay off relay $10 on Amazon connect it to key power
This makes it automated just by the turn of the key Which is mint
 






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