searching: rotor swap write-up

[raginraj]

hey guys,
i've got new rotors coming and i've been searching for an install guide or write-up on the subject. i've done some searches but i haven't found anything that deals in depth w/ the front brakes. since my X is a 4x4 i have the auto hubs up front. i know that there is some additional work involved (when compared to the rear) because u have to remove and then regrease and reset the bearings to swap rotors. i'm getting the haynes manual tonight and i'm hoping that will answer all of my questions... but just in case can anyone point me to a write-up or installation guide to supplement whatever is in the haynes manual.

thanx,
~RaginRaj

 

[raginraj]

well i got the haynes manual last night. even though it is for '91-'01 most of the pictures refer to older models (like '95 and before). there are a lot of little notes that start "for '98 and later 4wd models..." but no pictures or diagrams referring to them. on the upside it does tell you how to remove the the front and rear disc brakes, front bearing/hub assembly and the other stuff i needed to know. could've used a bit more detail but it seems these manuals are for people w/ a couple years of experience working on cars.

if anyone can help me find additional info on installing new rotors on a '00 4dr. 4wd Explorer i would greatly appreciate it.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

not sure if it's the same or not, but i do not believe you need to remove anything besides the caliper & anchor plate (caliper bracket) to get the front rotors off. On my '96, the hub/bearing comes as an assembly and does not need to be touched when doing brakes. If the rear is similar, you'll likely need a 2-3 jaw puller & BFH to get the rotors off (after releasing the tension on the adhuster screw, of course)

 

[draft]

No, you're wrong. He has an auto hub front assembly which requires bearing removal and repacking. I have no clue where you got these nonsense information, but the rear is simply taking the caliper off and rotor sliding right off.

Both 2WD and 4x4 Explorers have front bearing assemblys you must take off, and repack with seals to keep the grease in and the assembly lubed. Have you ever replaced brakes on an Explorer before, honestly? Anyone who has would know you're 100% wrong. :roll:

 

[etc]

2wd requires bearing repacking and all that good stuff. As far as I know 4wd and AWD share the same rotor, since 4WD doesn't have you touching anything in regards to the bearing the AWD is probably the same. .

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

No, you're wrong. He has an auto hub front assembly which requires bearing removal and repacking. I have no clue where you got these nonsense information, but the rear is simply taking the caliper off and rotor sliding right off.

Both 2WD and 4x4 Explorers have front bearing assemblys you must take off, and repack with seals to keep the grease in and the assembly lubed. Have you ever replaced brakes on an Explorer before, honestly? Anyone who has would know you're 100% wrong. :roll:

I gave information regarding the removal of rotors, which (as i stated: ON MY NINETY-SIX) DO NOT require the removal of the hub assembly. He stated that "u have to remove and then regrease and reset the bearings to swap rotors," from which i replied that this is not a necessity. If you so choose to remove the hub assembly to grease & repack, then removal of the hub is obviously something that you have to do, but still not necessary to just replace rotors.

I always preface my "assistance" with MY model year and it's possible relation to the question.

So as far as me being "100% wrong," i'm afraid that you are not 100% correct in your evaluation of the information that i provided.

 

[sk1er17]

what generation explorers are we talking about here?

on 2nd gen explorers- we have hub/bearing assembly's that DO NOT need to be removed, and you can not replace or repack the bearings if they go bad.

His ex is 2000 right? Did Ford go back to auto hubs after 99 or something? if not, then removing the rotor is the same as the rear, take the brakes off- pull the rotor off/ leave the hub assebly alone.

 

[sk1er17]

here, you can see the rotor still on the hub assembly in this picture. You need to take that bracket off (the one that holds the pads), then a BFH may be in order to get the rotor off.

In this picture he removed his spindle nut- YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT. he is taking apart his whole front end to service the front diffy...

Anyone who has would know you're 100% wrong. :roll:

..i think he was right dude

 

[etc]

on 2nd gen explorers- we have hub/bearing assembly's that DO NOT need to be removed, and you can not replace or repack the bearings if they go bad.

Except 2wd. The bearing races are pressed into the rotors, and are serviceable.

 

[raginraj]

well i'm still confused.

if it will help my X is a 2000. it has 4 doors and Control Trac 4wd w/ 3 modes (Auto, 4H, 4L). there are disc brakes w/ ABS on all 4 corners and front AUTO locking hubs to work w/ the CT 4wd system.

i'm hoping to figure this out before me and draft install the new rotors. marc's time is limited so it could be a while.

thanx to everyone who's contributed so far. keep it coming and we're bound to stumble upon the solution. i'll make a deal w/ all of u too. help me figure out what i'm supposed to do and I'LL make the rotor swap write-up for a 2nd gen 4x4 that i've been searching for

 

[sk1er17]

since my X is a 4x4

good info- i was just ignoring the 2wd situation because he stated this though.

and when he says "i have auto-hubs" i think he is just confused. I was too a few years back when i was about to buy manual hubs for my 98 and then was educated that we have hub-assembly's.

 

[sk1er17]

cool you're online.. now i have to go to class in 10 minutes- so really quick.. what makes you think you have auto hubs?

look at the pic i posted.. if your set-up looks like that then you do not have auto hubs. and here's your write up

1 take tire off
2 take caliper off
3 take pads out
4 take harbor off
5 beat the hell out of the rotor with a BFH till it comes loose
6 slide rotor off
7 slide new rotor on
8 reinstall everything

 

[raginraj]

cool you're online.. now i have to go to class in 10 minutes- so really quick.. what makes you think you have auto hubs?

i have auto-locking hubs because as far as i know that's the only way to engage the front wheels to the front axel once the transfer case starts supplying power. my understanding of the process is that when the transfer case is electronically engaged it will send power to the front axel. applying power to the front causes a spring inside the hub assembly to engage the wheel to the axel. once the transfer case disengages the front axel will spin down and as it does the spring will retract and unlock the front wheels automatically.

yes? no? questions? comments? post 'em here and lets keep this thread going.

 

[etc]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93068&highlight=rotor+4wd+awd

Found that thread, scroll halfway down and you'll see a post by Johnb V with a 4wd/awd rotor. They go OVER the hub assembly. So just beat the rotors out like sk1er said. Don't worry about the bearings.
4wd: Wheel > rotor > hub(with bearing sealed inside) > spindle

On a 2wd the rotor is PART of the bearing assembly because the bearings fall inside of it(take a look the haynes manual it shows the 2wd setup).

2wd : wheel > outer bearing race on rotor > bearings >inner bearing race on rotor > spindle.

 

[raginraj]

thank u etc. it figures that in the end it would be john vanek from EE who ends up answering one of my questions.

well this install seems a lot easier if i don't have to deal w/ any bearing/hub assemblies. sk1er17's write-up is all the more useful now... it would be better w/ some pics though

on a side note, patty vanek just emailed me my tracking number for my EE rear sway bar

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Ragin - if you only want to do the rotors, just do the rotors. Unless you're going to take the hub/bearing assembly off to grease the driveaxle spline, there is absolutely no reason to get into that. The hub/bearing assy is a sealed unit and cannot be serviced.

Basically, just follow the Haynes manual and you'll be aiiight.

 

[EBInterceptor]

I'm not sure about the whole 2wd thing, but since you're in LA, knocking the rotors off shouldn't be a problem. Most people seem to have trouble with the rears (I know I have) and rust. My fronts pop on and off really easily. What I have done is pretty much the same as Skier has said. For removing my rotors, just remove wheels, remove the calipers using the 2 bolts in the rear, if the caliper is stuck on the rotor you can slip a slotted screwdriver underneath the caliper and lift up slightly and the caliper. If you're using the same pads and everything hang it up using a zip tie so it's not hanging from the brake line and the rotor will slide right off. If the rotor is stuck, then smack the center of the rotor around the lug bolts and it should break it free.

This thread has gotten me confused, not even sure what I responded. Seems to be made out to be more complicated than it is. Many other threads about stuck rotors too if you need more info on that.

 

[raginraj]

This thread has gotten me confused, not even sure what I responded. Seems to be made out to be more complicated than it is. Many other threads about stuck rotors too if you need more info on that.

my original concern when i made this thread was if my particular X (2000, 4dr, 4x4) required me to remove and repack the bearings in order to swap out rotors. thanx to everyone here i have learned that on my X the rotor sits ON TOP of the bearing/hub assembly instead of being sandwiched between them like on earlier X's w/ 4wd.

 

[sk1er17]

yea, and to get some more understanding:

the way your hub works is when the tire spins, the axel spins also. they're never free from each other- it engages and disengages in the T-case.

The good part about this is that if you get stuck and switch to 4x4, you have 4x4. where as if you had "auto" hubs and got stuck in 2wd you're screwed because you actually need to roll forward for the hubs to engage (hence the reason most people upgrade to manual hubs)