Servicing Costs

[simonkn8574]

If there's a thread already can someone point me to it.. been searching around..

Anyone who doesn't do their own serving.. what's the going rate for a full/major service for the uk model?
As the vehicle is a new buy I want to change the oil/plugs/coolant as a bare minimum as I can't verify the age of the parts.. So is it cheeper to get a garage to do these particular items (anything i've missed?) or just put it in for a service and get "everything" done?

Cheers

SK

 

[janolsson]

If you have a mechanic you use already you could source the parts yourself and just pay for their time. If the plugs haven't been changed for a long time they could be a pig.

plugs ngk platimun @ £30 (£20 for copper if you are lpg)
Oil 5ltrs @ £25 (I use millers semi but ebay will buy you the ford stuff if you want for about the same)
Coolant £20 for 5ltrs of the good stuff ( i moved over to the pink for the extended life)
Oil filter £6 (avoid fram)
Air filter £15 (unbranded ebay)
Thermostat £15 (Dealer part fits better than aftermarket and worth the extra pennies for peace of mind.

You are then looking at about 3 hrs labour so what ever the mechs rate is.

Other things i like to do with a new to me vehicles;
check other fluids level/condition- tranny should be red and not burnt and dipped when warm and running
diffs should be up to the filler level
I also like to bleed thro new brake fluid as it should be changed every 5 years (been known to drastically improve the brakes) and check the pads
Grease all the door hinges (i use white ptfe grease)
Check the condition of all the drive shaft boots.

obviously the weather is not good at the mo but if you have somewhere to do it you could do a lot of these yourself to save on the expense of a mech.

 

[simonkn8574]

Cheers Jan,
Actually I don't have a mechanic as I've been on two wheels for the past few years!

That's a good list to start with though... Much appreciated.

Regards

SK

 

[ihpj]

I posted a forum thread on servicing parts and prices - I use Hengst stuff for my Ex from local motorfactors. Very happy with Hengst quality; if you search for it, it will give you part numbers and prices - all of which i hope helps you figure out costings.

A good thing about these trucks is that they are trucks (big with enough space) and they are based on 1960s technology


Things is, you can pretty much do the following yourself:

1. Oil/Filter - Buy correct spec. Ford specific 5W30 (fully synth) oil @ 5L for £20-odd and good quality (like Hengst!) filter for £5. if you use an extractor to suck out the old oil, you'll find it easier and much less messy.

2. Fuel Filter - Isolate fuel supply then crank engine to release pressure and empty the fuel line by cranking the Ex. over. Filter is located just about where the runners are for the front passenger seat, but located under the chassis. You will need a slider tool to unclip it from the line.

3. Air Filter - Couple of tension clips and thats it!

And with these three things done, you're well on your way to a 'full' service. You can do the plugs if you want and while there also check the ATF/PAS/Coolant and you're pretty much done )

Failing which, you can ask up here and I'm sure we'll be more than happy to help.

 

[simonkn8574]

Thanks for that ....help gratefully received.
ok, happy with oil and air filters.. Will think about fuel filter. When you say isolate fuel supply, do you mean pinch the line or something like that? What about the spark plugs breaking off in the head? Is that something we have to consider??

I bought the truck with little coolant in the header tank. Is flushing and replacing easy or something for a pro? Do you all use the pink stuff?

cheers again, perhaps I'll tackle it myself.. Just need someone to give me back the handbrake. goes to the vertical and still doesn't hold!!

Regards

Simon K

 

[janolsson]

Thanks for that ....help gratefully received.
ok, happy with oil and air filters.. Will think about fuel filter. When you say isolate fuel supply, do you mean pinch the line or something like that? What about the spark plugs breaking off in the head? Is that something we have to consider??

I bought the truck with little coolant in the header tank. Is flushing and replacing easy or something for a pro? Do you all use the pink stuff?

cheers again, perhaps I'll tackle it myself.. Just need someone to give me back the handbrake. goes to the vertical and still doesn't hold!!

Regards

Simon K

Isolate the fuel pump by pulling the relay or fuse.
Flushing is easy enough assuming the hose clips come off easily. Drain, then remove the t stat, hose one way thro then the other way (heater valve on hot), put in new stat and fill with coolant that you have already mixed. Run the engine with the rad cap off and top up as necessary. Don't forget to flush out the header tank and fill that to the correct level.

For the handbrake your shoes (separate ones for the handbrake inside the drum) may have not been touched for years!!! if you look at the back of the hub, at the bottom of the backing plate there is an oval hole (should be a rubber blanking grommet in there). Shine a torch thro the hole and you should be able to see a spur wheel. Turning this adjusts the shoes to the drum. One side you have to turn the spur one way and the other side the opposite way.

If you chock your front wheels and jack up the rear, set the handlle to 3 clicks then adjust the spur until you can't turn the wheel by hand. Do this both sides and then drop it down and test.

If after doing this you still have no joy it may be time to pull the drum off and check the shoes and drum. When i first got mine the shoes and drum were glazed and a quick rub with some emery paper sorted mine.

We will soon have you getting down and dirty with the spanners

 

[ihpj]

In the (front) passenger footwell there is an isolator switch that you can press that will isolate the fuel supply. It will also illuminate 'fuel reset' light on the dash. You can reset the switch with the use of a flathead screwdriver.

As for the coolant, I'm currently looking how to tackle a flush and refill of the system myself. When I got the car last year I had a mechanic I know replace fluids etc. for me - and being a VAG man he used the VAG G15 stuff which is by far more than acceptable for the Ex.

The thing with plugs can be, they will either just come out or be PITA. Sadly you don't know until you try. I was amazed how easily mine came out and how uniform they were in look and colour - showing good signs of 'wear'. I chose to replace mine with original Motorcraft ones as they popped up on eBay at my local Ford Dealer and I roped Howard (off the forum) to help me ;o)

If you figure out how to drain and flush the coolant from the radiator etc, please share as thats one project I'm looking to do myself. Having searched the forum I can see typed up instructions - I prefer pictures

 

[simonkn8574]

yeah me too with the pics...

Cheers for both replies. Gotta get down and dirty this weekend me thinks... assuming the weather holds out. With only a double garage, I have no space to work, 'cos obviously the garage is a storage space and not a car-parking place....!

SK

 

[simonkn8574]

Just been quoted about £200 for the handbrake shoes to be replaced.
Sounds a little costly???

 

[janolsson]

I would say that is a bit pricey as can be done in about an hour for both sides (less with lift and air tools) and the shoes can be bought for about £25

But before you worry about that spend ten mins doing the adjustment to see if thats all it needs

 

[simonkn8574]

i can bring the handbrake up to almost vertical and it still isn't holding the car in any way.... reckon there's room for "adjustment"???

got a good thread for changing/adjusting the handbrake.....

SK

 

[janolsson]

i can bring the handbrake up to almost vertical and it still isn't holding the car in any way.... reckon there's room for "adjustment"???

got a good thread for changing/adjusting the handbrake.....

SK

The adjuster has a lot of travel so potentially yes assuming there is some material on the shoes.
Here is a thread by Howard when he did his rear. Not a huge amount of info but piccies there to give you and idea
Howards new discs and handbrake hardware

I'll say this one last time, before going thro the effort/expense of replacing everything try turning the spur wheel thro the hole in the backing plate. 10 mins and costs nothing

Another handbrake discussion thread

 

[simonkn8574]

Cheers Jan,
Ahh, didn't realise until I waded through the handbrake threads that the "spur" was the ONLY adjustment... now i can see that there could be loads of adjustment available.
Very kind regards on that. money can go towards other explorer related works!!

SK

 

[simonkn8574]

right, thats the Oil change and air filter sorted. Just had the LPG checked and filter renewed.. Wow, thats sorted ALL the rough idle-ing. Will see about the rough start tomorrow but it runs so sweetly now and now flat spot and pinking in top gear, uphill, 40mph and kick-down... Cheers Avon Autogas, money well spent!

Handbrake tomorrow me thinks - allowing for snow/rain...

SK

 

[simonkn8574]

Did the handbrake today..

Loads of travel on the star adjuster.. adjusted until wheels locked and then tested.. 12 clicks on the handbrake to vertical and no braking action AT ALL... So I suppose it HAS to be the shoes then! Hey Ho..

SK

 

[kevin p]

Are you sure one of the handbrake cables hasn't snapped? Can you see both the levers that the cable connect to, on the calipers, actually move?

 

[simonkn8574]

Haven't tried that... You mean have one person pull up the handbrake and the other check the movement on the calliper. They looked rusted like it's been a while since they were used but I lubed them up....

Something to check I must admit... The pads on the rear look a little thin so might get the parts anyway and just get someone to do the shoes.. can do the pads myself..

SK

 

[fcat]

I had the same problem couple of years ago, stripped it all down and heres what i found!

 

[simonkn8574]

saw that pic elsewhere fact..... thats really quite all done!!

Better strip it down then, i suppose and stop being a whus..!

SK

 

[janolsson]

If you wer going to do the pads yourself then it isn't much more to pop the discs off and have a look. Just remeber to wind the spurs so the shoes come away from the hub as there may be a lip preventing the disc removal otherwise