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Severe hesitation under load

CPUNeck

Member
Joined
April 11, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Fort Campbell, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
98' 4x4 XLT Rescue Squad
Hi all, obviously new here... ya'll have a good thing here, LOTS of smart guys!:salute: Good trouble shooting I've read through here. Sorry, I post long and detailed, so be forewarned. Been stationed at Ft. Campbell about a year now and finally go on the local Rescue Squad. Low and behold, they have a (mfg 2/98) "red headed stepchild" Explorer XLT w/SOHC 4.0l 4x4 unit! Well I've been turning wrenches for a long time and am die hard Ford guy (albeit from the oil burner side:D) No one really likes this truck because it's crap (their words) in reality it's because at close to 112k, there has been no maintenance done to it! Here are the symptoms.

Cold:
Starts good, idles ok, no clunk when engaging the tranny, but if you put it in any gear and power brake, after about 20% throttle travel, engine starts missing (read same feeling you get when you hit the fuel/ignition cut off on later model cars), it's bad.

Up to Op temp:
Starts good, idles up and down ~250-350 rpm from 750. No clunk when engaging the tranny. Same hesitation under load though.

Driving:
If I pull out from a stop and apply the throttle as the truck accelerates (slowly) NO problem. Accelerates smoothly, and no discernible shifts from the tranny. If I try to pull out like into traffic, major hesitation... and it won't go. I'll have to back off until the engines settles back down and gradually reapply throttle. This shift between smooth and OMG is abrupt, like a switch is flipped.

Underway:
If I wait until I'm going say ~30mph or so, I can mash the gas all I want. No hesitation and it runs out fine. Still no discernible shifts. So what here's what I've done so far.

Other symptoms:
SES light on (reset computer and light came on after idling long enough to go into closed loop. I can't reliably get the O/D button to activate the dash light. Works sometimes, not others... seems no difference in the gear ratio though.

Changed fuel filter, cleaned MAS, throttle body, and plumbing, quick check for vacuum leaks (brake cleaner to running engine)

Tried:
Unplugging TPS, idled better, no change in condition though, unplugged MAS, no change, checked middle plug on driver side... LOTS of carbon, not wet, but close. Noted wires look OEM, plugs were autolite platinums (electrode looked good with no visible pitting or wear. Fuel pressure at port at idle was ~30psi and rose to about 40psi while blipping the throttle. Air filter is in good repair. Alt is weak @ 14v and 31amps at idle no acc. on. With the full shabang going (lights, A/C, emergency indicators, take down lights etc. it was 13.4 and 84amps) We have to keep a trickle plugged in or the batt (new) will drain down in a week or so. Tried to listen for the fuel pump, but could not hear it at all. Tested pressure before the filter and had a static pressure in the 82-88psi range. But it only cycled for a few seconds (like 2-4) kinda short I thought, but gassers are kinda new again to me. ODB-II was only a pipe dream when I was working on gas engines:D

Unrelated:
Severe cupping to both inside front tires, harsh, banging/bumping while under way from up front. Enough play in lower BJ's when lowering the vehicle you can see vertical movement at the joint. I couldn't "feel" any movement when attempting to detect horizontal play while jacked up on the 12 and 6 O'clock on the tires though. Noted the front drive shaft seems to be "hard" locked to the front hubs. (My F-250 Powerstroke Diesel(PSD) is selectable)

Ok I'm done for now... hope that wasn't so much info. I'll report back later with the SES codes and how the wires and plugs impacted the problem.
 






plugs and wires are original looking? That may be a good place to start with your driveability issues. Change the wires first since thats easiest, then the plugs. If you do change the plugs, going in through the passenger side wheelwell will be your best option.

A new IAC wouldnt be bad either, the idle shouldnt rise and fall by that much...hence why it idles better with it unplugged.

Also at 112k, and the original balljoints....they should be replaced, upper and lower. The previous owner of my explorer let the upper balljoints go bad, and the inside of both front tires got worn out to the point that they both went flat at the same time!
 






Ok, pulled the codes (12 of them!) I don't believe them though;)

P0135-O2 #1 problem
P0155-O2 #1 problem
P0141-O2 #2 problem
P0161-O2 #2 problem

P1409-ECM commandes EGR vacuum regulator on-System voltage too high or low
P1451-ECM detected the canister vent solenoid signal moved outside the caibrated parameters at a specific duty cyce

P0765-Shift solenoid circuit ope or shorted
P0760-Shift solenoid #3 circuit open or shorted
P0755-Shift solenoid #2 circuit open or shorted
P0750-Shift solenoid #1 circuit open or shorted
P0743-TCC circuit energized and no voltage drop detected (open or shorted)
P1747-EPC shorted output driver (detected that the TCC circuit was shorted to power)

Now from reading here seems I remember that all this stuff (less the EGR maybe) has a common harness. I can not believe that EVERY solenoid in the pack is BAD. I have no schematics so where should I start? Seems right off the top that there is a ground wire that is shorted to hot somewhere, that would kinda do all this at once. :rolleyes:

So having all that info, and that the truck is running around 2800rpm @ 55mph, do I only have ONE gear?? This could explain everything except why it also hesitates in reverse. I mean if I'm say stuck in 3rd gear (maybe a "limp" mode), starting from a dead stop and goosing it would cause the T/C to stall and all h&^$ would break loose on the engine side. This would also explain why once under way I can't really make it "hesitate", because the T/C isn't stalling. BUT everything should be working for reverse, should it not? Could also be a symptom of the now quite fouled plugs due to all this lugging. I believe the O2 issues are causing the idle problems once in closed loop. What will the truck do if I just unplug the tranny plug?
 






Ok, so I checked the main harness servicing the circuits that were having faults. Basically just reseated the connectors at the tranny and the gear selector sensor. Fogged the intake with Seafoam, one bottle in tank, replaced fuel filter, cleared codes and called it a day.

ShamWhow... everything works again! Took it on a nice long ~75mi drive, even though the SES was not on, had the DTC's pulled anyway, Pass with no codes! That was easy. Only issue left is the sluggish response from the O/D button. Do these trucks have a problem with the wire in the tilt column getting pinched and adventually breaking? I've replaced two on my F-250 already;) Thanks
 






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