Shifting Problems

[Explodr94]

Wife came home today and drove me around in her Limited. Car would rev up and not shift into second. I checked fluid and it was fine. I drove the beast around and noticed that if you backed off the gas while it was revving that it would shift up, unless you punched it too hard, then it would kick down and rev up again. Long story short sounds like a vacuum leak to me and will check that in morning. However, my friend, who has a Ranger, had the same issue on his truck. He related to me that he changed all the filters and shifting was no longer an issue. Anyone out there have any other things I can check if vacuum proves not to be the issue. Thanks.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I was thinking that you could have a few different problems. First try to adjust your intermediate band (the one in the middle after the OD band). Adjust your kick down cable linkage. It might be possible that your modulator is going bad, and your governor might be sticking. Do you have this problem when it is cold, then it goes away when it is warm?

 

[Explodr94]

Brooklyn Bay,

It occured to me that I recently cleaned my IAC (about 2 weeks ago). There are times when those get cleaned that filter in that piece gets clogged. Also, I noticed that the speedometer is now bouncing all over the place. So, my game plan is to change the IAC, Speed Sensor, and Modulator. The vehicle has 160,000 and those parts have not ever been replaced. If that doesn't do it, I'll post the results of tightening the intermediate band. I would think that would tighten up the shifts. It seems like there is nothing wrong with the internals. My wife drove the Explorer, shifting the car by backing off the gas pedal. She reported that it drove well on the freeway etc...But there were problems of revving going up a hill on a side street. She could not shift up. It appears that the kickdown is working. I will ask if her if it drives better when cold tomorrow.

 

[BrooklynBay]

A 1-2 shift delay is from a sticking governor. You just mentioned that your speedometer was going wild. I once saw an article in Gears magazine about this problem in a Ford motorhome. Everytime the speedometer went crazy, the vehicle had erratic shifts. It turned out that the wiring in the steering column was being pinched when the driver moved the tilt. It shorted the signal going to the computer. In your transmission (A4LD), the electrical connections are related to the OD, and the TCC. You don't have electronic shifts like on the 4R44E/4R55E, and the 5R55E.

 

[Explodr94]

Brooklyn

Still waiting for a vacuum modulator. Was checking the one on the tranny right now and when I pulled the hose, fluid spilled out approx. an ounce. That seems like a bad sign for a vacuum valve. Any thoughts. I post next after I change the VM and let you know if it shifts any better.

Thanks

 

[BrooklynBay]

If you saw fluid in the hose, then the modulator's internal diaphragm is leaking. You must be losing a lot of fluid in the transmission, since it is going into the engine. When you replace the modulator, be cafeful not to lose a small pin that is behind it. That pin goes between the modulator, and the transmission. When you replace the modulator, you could put a drop of vaseline on the pin to hold it in place while you are putting it back into the transmission just be sure that it won't fall out while it is being installed. By the way, there are a few different types of modulators. There is the standard one, the adjustable one (you could fine tune it for a specific shift pattern), or the one they use on turbo charges engines. I'm not sure why that one is different, but I would assume it is just preset for a certain shift pattern.

 

[Explodr94]

Ok, after a week of work, I finally got to replacing the Vac. Modulator. Followed all of the steps in the Haynes Manual and put a dab of petro jelley on the pin when reinstalling the Modulator. Everything went back together nicely. When I went for the test drive the 1st to 2nd shift was stil giving me problems. At very slow acceleration it will shift, but not everytime. It will shift about 3500-4000 rpms after letting up on the accelerator. I replaced several vacuum hoses, because there was transmission fluid evident. Am I looking at a rebuild situation? Or is there some other things I can test for. The Explodr shifts perfectly in all other gears.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Your governor could be sticking. I mentioned this in my previous post. The intermediate band could be adjusted, since it's for 2nd gear.

 

[Explodr94]

Brooklyn,

I have been reading my ATSG service manual and it does not describe the adjustment to the bands. Do you have pictures or a diagram with a description of the adjustment? Do I need to remove the servo spring or can I make the adjustment while servo assembly is on? I know that I have to take the tailshaft off to examine the governor, is there a test to see if it sticking? Also, thanks for the time you have spent leading me through this. This is a great forum.

Thanks, Explodr94

 

[Glacier991]

It's not likely a band adjustment issue. I'd more likely consider it a governor issue.

 

[speerskija]

I'm really glad I found this Post, I just started having the exact same problem with my explorer. The exact same problem completely. I have no idea what to do to fix it. I'm just hoping that it isn't a serious transmission problem. I'm going to take it to a ford dealership tomorrow and get it diagnosed.

 

[Explodr94]

Alright, I was just trying to eliminate all the easier things first. I'll check the governor tomorrow. Gracias.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I feel that it is most likely a sticking governor. As for the information on adjusting bands, there is a lock nut on the threaded studs on the driver's side of the transmission. Loosen that nut, but hold the stud in place. Set your torque wrench @10 ft. lbs, and then tighten the stud. When it reaches 10 ft. lbs, turn the stud 2 complete counter clockwise turns, and then lock the nut in place. This is the procedure for a single wrap band. The double wrap band is 3 1/2 turns. Your transmission should have the single wrap band.

 

[speerskija]

well, bad news, apparently I need a new tranny

 

[BrooklynBay]

How do you know that the whole transmission is bad? Did the dealer tell you that? The dealer, and tranny shops always say that you need a new transmision when a lot of the time it only needs to have the VB cleaned, a sticking governor, band adjustment, modulator, VB gasket, or some other type of thing. What did they tell you exactly?

 

[speerskija]

hey, have you checked your servo pistons on the side of the tranny next to the cad converter. Turns out mine are cracked

 

[BrooklynBay]

Those servo pistons do dry out from heat. That is the reason why the newer A4LDs came with a heat shield. I'm still trying to get 2 of them. Those pistons are really difficult to replace while the transmission is in the vehicle. If you are going to replace them, you might want to upgrade to the larger ZC (the biggest size) servo, and cover.

 

[speerskija]

Well, my servo pistons were replaced and it is running well. 300 dollars for pistons and labor is better than 1800 for a new tranny

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you upgrade to the larger size, or just replace the ones that you had in there with the same size? Did you have the heat shield on your transmission?

 

[speerskija]

just the normal ones plus a heat shield. the normal ones should last longer than the vehicle now.