Shock question

[mehedgec]

How much of an improvement in comfort will I see with new shocks? Or do these things ride like a brick even with new shocks? No need for anything heavy duty because I do not tow, so I would probably go with the middle of the line shocks for about $25 a piece at autozone. 2 wheel drive if that matters.

 

[Cbyersh37]

Well i replaced mine because every time i hit a crack in the road i the truck would rattle, and potholes felt like explosions... lol. After i replaced them i had about a 75% increase in ride comfort, i think the reason being is because of it being a 4x4 and having a stiffer suspension. I would hope that it would be better in 2wd though.

 

[alakers]

Nothin wrong with new shocks. good to replace every now and then, cost me like 300 for some heavy duty's with the addition of a gun turret on my ex. goodluck.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I just replaced my front shocks yesterday. The ones I took off were marked Motorcraft and were quite rusty, so they may have been 17 original years old.

I replaced them with Monroe-Matic+ ($25). And I noticed a very definite difference for the better.

If I had it to do again today, I would have maybe have gone to a higher-end shock for 2 reasons. First, the Monroe-Matic+ was a notably smaller bore shock than the OEM. Second, the better Monroe's and Rancho's are on rebate where you buy 4 and they pay you back for one of them.

I would also buy a couple of Dorman #31001 lower mount kits, and have the ability to grind a broken stud flat and drill a 1/2 hole in heavy gauge steel. The lower mount has a tendancy to snap off when you try to remove it. One of mine did just that, and it was an interesting recovery. The explorer really doesn't drive too bad with a missing shock... I was surpised. I drove it that way to get the kit, in town driving, no problems.

I have read here where you grind it flat and punch out the old stud. Mine would not punch out and I can say for sure I ground flush to the RA. I used an angle grinder to do that, then I did a progressive drill to get a hole to size but I didn't have a 1/2", so I got one from Orielly and it was a terrible bit. Dull out of the box. Thanks China drill bit maker. I ended up using a variety of tools in non-approved ways but it's in and all is good.

You will end up using a surprising variety of tools before you are done. If you have a friend with the big tool collection, I'd probably do it there. Good time to do brake pads if they are about due also.

Edit: Regarding the broken studs... I noticed that it's really not a matter of the nut being frozen on the stud. It's when you start trying to back it off over the exposed and corroded threads. If I had it again, I would get a wire brush or a wire wheel on a drill, dremel, whatever, and clean up the exposed threads first. Then, I'd use PB or acetone/tranny fluid. I don't think I would have broken it if I did some intelligent preparation.

 

[Currency]

I would have to suggest grinding it as well. I replaced my shock bolt after I broke several bolts including the original one. Without grinding it flat, it's a PITA to get the bolts on.

My shocks need replaced as well. The passenger side where I broke the bolts loves to try and slid over the nut on the end. I should have purchased larger washer instead on my continued hammering of the shock every few months to keep it from popping off yet again....

 

[Jason94sport]

Depends on what shape the ones on there now are. I recently replaced mine. I have no idea what was on it or how many miles. Rode fine, but I got a deal on Monroe reflex shocks, & figured I'd replace them. After about a month of driving my X drives & feels exactly the same. Money wasted I guess. The last 2 X's I had I replaced the shocks when I lifted it, so I saw massive differences in ride.
I was lucky on this X. My mounts didn't sheer off. On my 94 they did. I also picked up 2 of the Dorman #31001 replacements. They are in my parts box for now.

 

[mehedgec]

Depends on what shape the ones on there now are. I recently replaced mine. I have no idea what was on it or how many miles. Rode fine, but I got a deal on Monroe reflex shocks, & figured I'd replace them. After about a month of driving my X drives & feels exactly the same. Money wasted I guess. The last 2 X's I had I replaced the shocks when I lifted it, so I saw massive differences in ride.
I was lucky on this X. My mounts didn't sheer off. On my 94 they did. I also picked up 2 of the Dorman #31001 replacements. They are in my parts box for now.

In what manner do these sheer off? When twisting the bolt off? If that I figure its nothing a little phone blaster for several days won't prevent from happening

 

[Jason94sport]

When twisting the bolt off? If that I figure its nothing a little phone blaster for several days won't prevent from happening

Yes. It's actually a nut with a large indented washer. And 5 mornings of soaking the lower nut in PB Blaster didn't matter.

 

[mehedgec]

Yes. It's actually a nut with a large indented washer. And 5 mornings of soaking the lower nut in PB Blaster didn't matter.

****

 

[Roadrunner777]

If you clean up the exposed threads, I think you will be ok. My nut turned 3 or 4 turns then got tight and snapped I'd pit it with the solvent of your choice and a wire brush or wire wheel in a drill. If I had a real shop, I'd have a die set and I'd use a die reversed to renew the threads. I, of course, have no idea what the existing thread is...

 

[testpilot71]

Rancho shocks?

no joy on shocks? Midas just recommended $750 coil and $450 shock replacement to relieve my inner tire wear.

It made me think I could treat myself to some nice parts as a DIY project.

Are the Monroe Rancho RS5039 the best shock that I can put on a stock suspension? They run about $50 (shipped) on eBay.

 

[jones152]

I have the Ranchos and Im lookin at replacing them now. They run like a brick when the gas runs low, guess thats true of any gas charged shock.

 

[mr cribb]

I need to replace mine.... I have 20 year old shocks on mine... considering my truck was built in late '91. I happened to notice the motorcraft imprint on mine today.

 

[mehedgec]

I need to replace mine.... I have 20 year old shocks on mine... considering my truck was built in late '91. I happened to notice the motorcraft imprint on mine today.

I changed mine a month ago. Both bolts broke I never did update this thread though, I should have.

One bolt sheered off, the other SPUN IN THE CONTROL ARM! I ground them flush and drilled new holes for replacement studs, and put the new ones on.

I compressed the old ones, and they did not expand back out. LOL

 

[Xeek]

why so much trouble with the lower mounts? my shocks looked stock as far as i could tell and i had no problem getting the nuts off, 8" ratchet with 1/2" driver, no nothing, just started turning it right off.
i guess i got really lucky. i hope nothing happens with i get new shocks on lol

 

[Roadrunner777]

I broke one out of two. The exposed threads get corroded in some environments and it's hard to get a nut to go through it. Next time, I will wire-wheel the exposed threads and use some penetrating fluid.

(Edit: Just like I said 6 posts ago... LOL)

 

[Jason94sport]

Hit & miss. Like I said. 2 1st gens were fine for me, a 3rd was not.

 

[eastvanmikee]

e-z way to pull stubborn nuts

Every time I mess with shocks something always gets stripped/broken, usually due to the installer failing to use anti-seize or lube on the threads, and when the bushings wear there is no way to remove the nuts (ie top of front shocks) without cutting the shock off, forcing you to buy new shocks (nice scam eh).

Due to lots of brain storming and alot of searching I came up with two methods, and between the two , one or the other works every time and I can swap out worn bushings without having to replace the shocks when their still good.

Method 1: search for the "candle trick" works like a charm. heat the nut and stud with the seized nut on it with a plumbers torch, dont cook it, just heat a bit, then push the end of a birthday candle into the thread at the end of the nut so the melting wax will wick into the threads....let cool a few seconds and woohoo the bolt usually comes right off !! Wax makes a really good lube and the heat draws it right in.

If this doesnt work then method 2: buy a set of "nut splitters" from harbour freight or wherever, place it over the seized nut and tighten with a ratchet. After a few cranks it will crack the nut and it will EASILLY thread right off. wire wheel threads while nut is off and replace with a new nut and your good to go.

Both methods have proven to work in just minutes flat on stubborn muffler and exhaust manifold bolts that see alot of heat as well as many other aplications.

Hope this helps..

 

[mr cribb]

wow the only promising response to doing this job is from Jason94Sport.... everyone else seems to have horror stories when doing shocks.