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should i cut my losses. Rear chain




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does anyone have the part no. for the right head gasket? went to the dealer today and he couldn't tell me which side was which. I need the one for cylinder #1,#2 and #3.

thanks again
regards

Hi,

Right hand gasket is finis 1046543 (for reference left hand is 3994773.)

Thanks for taking the time to post and add pictures I've enjoyed the read. I long for the moment when I get time to do all the jobs I want to do. For some reason my missus doesn't see buying parts and repairing cars as a priority!!

Cheers,

SS
 






Hi,

Right hand gasket is finis 1046543 (for reference left hand is 3994773.)

Thanks for taking the time to post and add pictures I've enjoyed the read. I long for the moment when I get time to do all the jobs I want to do. For some reason my missus doesn't see buying parts and repairing cars as a priority!!

Cheers,

SS

Thanks stanasev
just to confirm the right hand head as in the manual is for cylinders #1,2 and 3 ie with the rear chain? Ta

As for the buying parts etc, fortunately my other half met me after i was already playing with motors so she doesn't know any different!! Also this vehicle is a second motor for me, a toy as it were so I have the luxury of time for all the playing. I also work a 2pm - 10pm shift so that leave good daylight hours during the week. The only downer as always is a shrinking wallet.

Regards
 






you are the MAN
well done on the mot (:
 






The saga continues

OK so this weekend i did the engine swap from my spare to the original rebuilt. I pulled the spare out
Spare%20engine.jpg

All of the top gubbins, wiring loom, egr, alt bracket, alt and vac hoses had to be transfered to the original engine with a little bit of cleaning along the way. It left me with this
original%20built.jpg


Then it was just a small matter in putting the shiny one back in
Crane%20in%202.jpg


This is where the problem came. Could i get the engine and tranny to line up at the right angle?? 3 HOURS !!!!
Got it in the end, but i didn't have this trouble any of the other times i did the install.

So got her in and all hooked up and filled with fluids etc.
Ready for the big start.
Started fine, idled a little rough for a few seconds (prob fuel related) then smoothed out somewhat. No more chain noise, yey but a little bit of chugging an bit like a slight misfire. Also as you work the throttle sometimes it makes a single knock before picking up revs.
I took her out around the block and it seems like its running on 5 cylinders.
On the plus side i have oil pressure, no rattle and ran upto temp fine. Also i have no rattle from my tranny so it appears that my earlier diagnosis of the tranny rattle was in fact the rear chains on both engines.

So 6 days to sort her out (well 5, as i can't face her tommorrow after two 12 hour days on it!). I was hoping to be able to do some touching up about the body but hey ho.

Regards
 












Thanks streetrod
Gonna start on tuesday with compression test as i think the pink sound might be valve related. Also gonna pull the valve covers to check the timing again even though on the stand i cranked it over several times to check both cams were timed. I will also be pulling each HT lead in turn to see if this affects the idle and double checking all the connectors and vac hoses (esp the injector plugs).
Could be so many things i just gotta work thro the list.
As i mentioned above i only have 6 days as next sunday there is a car meet for Fords and the UK part of this forum has a stand and we got 13 (including mine) all parking together, so i gotta have this done.
 






Compression test done

Had a poke around this morning and couldn't find anything not connected.
All the plugs on the right bank were sooted up but i put this down to all the cleaner residue in the cylinders from doing the valve job. The plugs on the left bank were normal.
There was a small split on #5 plug lead but pulling this worsened the idle so not the cause of the problem.

It seems to me that i can hear an excessive sucking noise.

On to the compression test. Done with engine warmed up to running temp, coil pack unplugged and WOT
#1 182
#2 180
#3 182
#4 185
#5 182
#6 185
So i'd say pretty much spot on.

I'm going to pull the plenum tommorrow morn and see if i can see anything wrong, hoping to find something not connected.

If i get time i'm gonna pull the valve covers to check the timing but as the compression is so good the timing must be right ???? as if it was out the valves would be opening at the wrong time and therefore reduce the compression values (yes???)

For now i'm ruling out the fuel filter and pump as they were fine the day before the engine swap.

I'll see what comes up in the morning:dunno:
 






best of luck Jan .... see u Sunday all being good
 






best of luck Jan .... see u Sunday all being good

I'll be there but the shiny engine may not be!:thumbdwn:
 






Good compression

Jan, I agree that with those compression numbers your timing and valves appear to be working fine.

Do you have any diagnostic codes set?

Here's a list of the vacuum lines to check:

1. left rear: power brake booster

2. left rear: PCV valve "T"

3. right rear: PCV valve "T"

4. right rear: (splits into three lines with two lines splitting again into two) fuel pressure damper, EGR vacuum regulator, fuel vapor management valve below battery compartment, vacuum reservoir bulb below air filter enclosure, heater water control valve

5. left center: IAC valve inlet (short flexible hose and rigid tube)

6. right center: fuel vapor management valve (Y connection with 7 below at front of engine)

7. left center: fuel vapor management valve (Y connection with 6 above at front of engine)

I don't know if your vehicle has the variable intake system. If so, then there's the vacuum line to solenoid which then flows to the vacuum actuator for the intake runners control
 






Jan, I agree that with those compression numbers your timing and valves appear to be working fine.

Do you have any diagnostic codes set?

Here's a list of the vacuum lines to check:

1. left rear: power brake booster

2. left rear: PCV valve "T"

3. right rear: PCV valve "T"

4. right rear: (splits into three lines with two lines splitting again into two) fuel pressure damper, EGR vacuum regulator, fuel vapor management valve below battery compartment, vacuum reservoir bulb below air filter enclosure, heater water control valve

5. left center: IAC valve inlet (short flexible hose and rigid tube)

6. right center: fuel vapor management valve (Y connection with 7 below at front of engine)

7. left center: fuel vapor management valve (Y connection with 6 above at front of engine)

I don't know if your vehicle has the variable intake system. If so, then there's the vacuum line to solenoid which then flows to the vacuum actuator for the intake runners control

Thanks
Checked most of those already and yes we have the variable intake and mine is working.
No CEL and i don't have access to a code reader. Gonna ask about for one to borrow if i have no joy tommorrow.
Just gonna dig in and look again, been a couple of long days and been rushing so i may have missed the obvious (double and triple checked the wires on the coil in the right place).
 






The war against the machines is over (for now)

The day of reckoning came and i was equal to it. The war against the machines is over and I was VICTORIOUS.

OK a bit dramatic but the original engine now runs sweet and quiet. I have had this ex since December 08 and this is the first time its been quiet. Joy oh joy.
Can you tell i'm a little bit pleased with myself.
Thank you to everyone that helped including those that didn't post directly but posted their own threads and solutions.
Nuff
:D:bounce::chug::biggthump
Now of to work in my battered old 92 Saab to drive 300K old lorry
See all you UK guys on Sunday
 






I repeat YOU ARE THE MAN

well done
look forward to seeing the result's on sunday
 






what was the problem? It's like reading a good book but somone has nicked the last 2 pages..........
 






what was the problem? It's like reading a good book but somone has nicked the last 2 pages..........

Ah i hoped no-one would ask that question on open forum as i'm embarrased to say it was human error again!!
Having said i'd triple checked the plug wires i had concentrated on #4,#5 and #6 as on the coil its an odd order but i had stupidly got #1 and #3 the wrong way around on the coil. The thing is i don't remember taking the leads off the coil.
So when i took it around the block it was running on 4 cylinders. Ran weak but still drove!
After getting all the leads in the right place instant bliss.
 






nice to hear I'm not the only person to have done that. :D

The last time I played with the leads was when we had that last bad weather, every time I squeezed the tabs to remove a lead from the coil they broke off due to the cold.
 






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