Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Yes lol, I wish they were wider but with the spacers they don't look too shabby. I plan on putting some 22" rims on it but for now these will do just fine. The previous owner had it on glossy black 22's and it looked great.
I have 22"s on my expedition and dislike them very much , but then again , I'm not into big rims , they were on it when I bought it . It will be sold soon .
I have 22"s on my expedition and dislike them very much , but then again , I'm not into big rims , they were on it when I bought it . It will be sold soon .
I made a thread on a Truck offer On My Quad Forum , But The truck was not worth my Expy , And I need Cash now more than anything . but I don't like taking over other peoples threads . Sorry OP .
Debating rebuilding the engine and putting a few grand into the truck to freshen it up to use as a long term DD or to keep it as a project/weekend truck and get something to rack up miles on.
With a 70 miles commute for work each day I need something that can take a beating. Especially since I work for an electric utility company so I need to get to work even in the worst snow storms.
I would totally buy one if I had some people that have gotten some reviews on them. Can't seem to find any customer reviews online about them.. But at that price and with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty it seems awesome.
The front left wheel of my truck seems to have a wobble if I hit a big pothole, and sometimes I hear it make a swooshing noise as I drive. Is this the hub? Only started happening after I used the 4wd a few times in the past week due to the snow.
I would totally buy one if I had some people that have gotten some reviews on them. Can't seem to find any customer reviews online about them.. But at that price and with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty it seems awesome.
1) What is the difference between auto and manual hubs?
2) What is the benefit of those over the stock hubs?
3) Do I need to get the 1989 hubs or whatever they mention for early 90's vehicles? I see they say I need the spindle nut conversion kit.
1. Manual hubs require you get out of the truck and lock them to use 4wd. I would replace your auto hubs for sure. It is an easy install.
2. Stock auto hubs do break, especially when wheeling. These are stronger, more reliable and give you options for how you drive in 4wd. For example only locking in one wheel at a time.
3. No, you don't need an early one, that unit should be fine. Yes, you do need to conversion kit to install them.
4. Shackles - you should use longer shocks, but I have gotten by for a while with stock length shocks, but I made sure I wasn't hitting the trails until I corrected that. IF you decide to do a SOA, you can use the same stock length shock, though.
I never plan on off roading with it but I may do a 2" lift on it in the future so then I would deff get longer shocks.
I am hoping that all my small noises/wobbling are due to the front left hub being locked. I did notice different amounts of grease on each hub when we removed them last week to install the wheels/spacers and I read auto hubs should not be greased much. Should be on the lift by the end of the week to check it out and if that is the case I will def order those hubs, thanks. (Not driving it in the meantime)
Can't wait to fix all the stuff on the truck so I can sell my p.o.s civic and daily this thing!
If you go manual, yes, like FR425 stated, and do get the spindle nut tool, should be considered mandatory! And if you also get a lift in the front to go with the shackle lift in the rear, even 2 inches, you ought to get a good alignment so you don't wear out tires and other suspension components.
Lube in the hubs, manual or auto should be ATF fluid, only. A quickie search should yield plenty of info to read up on to clean and perform regular maintenance.
If you get your auto hubs cleaned up and working they are a nice option if you just need to get through the snow on your daily commute.
When mine became unreliable (they where old and dirty but not broke)
I cleaned them up and now carry them as spares.
Even so, with some testing, one or the other would still occasionally fail to engage or disengage. Maybe 5% of the time.
Which means I still had to get out and reach under the truck and turn the drive shaft to be sure they were locked/unlocked.
Found myself in a situation where I really needed them locked but one would not lock.
So in -10 deg and 8" snow I had to pull the hub off and get it working so I could get going.
Last time for the auto hubs. COLD, COLD COLD!
OH, and you do not need to unlock the hubs to disengage 4x4.
It will just cost you gas mileage run'n with the front axle turning "un-powered"
So if your 20 mile drive only requires 5 miles in 4x4 you can engage and disengage as you like. Lock the hubs
before you leave the garage and go.
The auto hubs require you to back up 30 ft to disengage anyway. So even with auto hubs if you engage 4hi while rolling (Ford says any speed under 35 is ok) then disengage 4x4 while still rolling the hubs will remain locked until you stop and reverse for 30 ft.
It will not harm your truck to drive around town with the hubs locked all winter. Just don't hit the highway and run 55+ for extended runs.
SHIFTING TO 4 LOW REQUIRES A FULL STOP! TRANS IN NEUTRAL.
SHIFTING TO 4 HIGH CAN BE DONE AT ANY SPEED BELOW 35 (THE SLOWER THE BETTER IN MY OPINION)