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snorkel

marchre3

Member
Joined
November 1, 2006
Messages
11
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0
City, State
CT
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 XLT
whats up every1. i am looking to put a snorkel on my 92 explorer. i am at a loss as to how to go about it so any1 got any suggestions let me kno.
also where can i find a good rebuild kit for a 4.0 v6 94 ex engine
 



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ya i live in ct...almost in mass.. but im rebuildin my ex for wheelin..goin to baran so i figure might aswell get started
 






hey whats up ? Where in Ct are You ? Im in Stafford Springs, Whats your rig got so far ?
There has been a few guys on here that have done snorkles try searching with the word snorkle you should come up with a few ideas.
Im Thinkin About doin one on mine soon & ive gotten some good thoughts out of those threads. Basicly you take the right (passenger side) outer fender off remove the stock air box cut hole in inner fender fit pipe & elbow to it facing toward the rear of tthe truck cut hole to match in outer fender, Ive seen it done on top by where the antena is & also out the side of the fender so you can keep the stock antena location, then fit pipe & elbows to get the desired hieght & angles top it off with a snorkle intake Cap so it will help decrease water flow into snorkle. I dont remember where you get the top but i know its in the threads somewhere cause ive read it theyve got an awsome write up on it.
~Drew~
 






i live in broad brook..basically east windsor..my x is pretty much stock.but i got big plans..right now i am rebuilding a 94 x engine. port and polish bore .30 ova i was goin to stroke it but to expensive. goin to have full exhaust snorkle i want to go wit a 4in lift mayb 2 in body..and when i get mucho more money dana front and rear allison transercase...but those r my wishes haha..thankz fer the info on the snorkel..lots of help...i am tired of suckin in water
 






Cool, no problem man you should check out the new england explorers thread theres gettin to be quite a few of us in ct. now

Drew
 






Do some searching, there are several threads. I built my own. i used 2.5 inch electrical conduit, dryer venting, a lot of silicone, and the most expensive part: an ARB cap.
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did that give you any more power. it looks like you might hava a little ram-air action. i looks sweet i want one.
 






Do some searching, there are several threads. I built my own. i used 2.5 inch electrical conduit, dryer venting, a lot of silicone, and the most expensive part: an ARB cap.
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I think he is looking for a Exaust snorkle.
BTW: Nice job, it looks good.
 






What we did for a exaust snorkle is that we had one made at our local muffler shop. They can pretty much bend to any shape and size you want.
It attaches with 2 muffler clamps at the bottom and a bracket higher up the side of the truck that we put another clamp on.
 












I did mine in a lot simpler fashion...

I figured that I would never see water above the windows, so I used a top of the hood scoop that is ducted to the air box. Works PERFECT.

I also gained a little bit of oomph on the freeway from the ram air effect.

Some details:

Scoop -- eBay item, commonly sold under a bunch of brands - $10.

Ducting hose: Common RV flexible poop-pipe with fittings - 1 - 90* (air box)and 1 - 45* (hood) - $15. The hose is holding up VERY well, and you get 10' in the box, so it is good for 3 applications if it tears.

How to install:

I pulled the battery and air box, then removed the factory inlet tube completely (so long water vacuum!)

Where the factory inlet hooked into the air box (a rectangular-shaped hole) I used a hole saw and cut it to fit the 3" duct fitting (90*). I used silicone to hold the fitting in place. I also used a file and a grinder to trim the edges of the fitting flat on the bottom (will become evident when you look at it) and the hole in the box. You could also glue it in place, but the silicone seems to work well.

I also drilled a few drain holes in the bottom of the air box to deal with any rain or other water that might get into the box. Rain while moving is no big deal, but puddled water in the box is a problem. I used a 1/4" drill for this purpose and drilled around 6 holes in strategically placed spots for best drainage. No worries about contamination, as this is below the filter. Also, the holes are not large enough to let in a lot of hot air versus the free-flowing source coming from the ducting to the hood.

Attach the hose to the fittings (press fit - no clamps needed).

Hole saw a place in the hood (right next to the AC ducting, to the rear of the hood) to fit the duct fitting (45*). Insert the fitting into the hood from the top down. Use silicone to seal it to the hood, and also two sheetmetal screws with fender washers to apply a clamping action to hold the fitting in place. Attach the other side of the duct hose.

Clean the hood well, then stick the hood scoop over the hood using the double-sided tape already applied to the scoop. Make sure you align it well - you get one shot!

Job finished. Total time for this mod -- < 1 hour start to finish.

You can just see the scoop peeking over the top of the left side of the hood in this shot... It SAVED my engine in this hole, which was up to the pin stripe on the side of the body.

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A better view of the placement on the hood.

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An "inside the truck" view.

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what about when the water splashes over the top and runs back down the windshield, a buddies B2 has a similar set-up and he runs in to all kinds of probs with the water runin back down the windsheild and into the scoop

he has it sittin 2 inches above the hood line and still gets it into the airbox on occasion, its covered with a Dryer vent and inside the vent the pipe sticks up over the hood not flush

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I can't forsee that being a problem. But then, I realize that I drive a truck, not a jet ski. Hitting water holes deep enough to create a wave that goes up over the windshield is rather silly off-road behavior, and it would just as easily flood a higher snorkle. A little bit of driver skill... will prevent a lot of truck damage...

Unless the object of the exercise is that all-famous last line:

Quick -- get the camera! :D
 






I realize that I drive a truck, not a jet ski. Hitting water holes deep enough to create a wave that goes up over the windshield is rather silly off-road behavior, and it would just as easily flood a higher snorkle. A little bit of driver skill... will prevent a lot of truck damage...
:D

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didn't have a prob with my full height snorkel:D , that B2 has yet to see water deeper then the tires, but when you have a hole that you need to cross, it doesn't take much to splash the water up onto the hood, just my
$.02, to each his own,

clicky
 






glfredrick, few quick questions

you said this gained a little power, would it be better to turn the scoop forward?
also, i have a KKM iduction kit, would this still be feasable?
and would hitting a puddle that sent a bit of water on the hood be worse with the snorkel on the hood?
 






glfredrick, few quick questions

you said this gained a little power, would it be better to turn the scoop forward?
also, i have a KKM iduction kit, would this still be feasable?
and would hitting a puddle that sent a bit of water on the hood be worse with the snorkel on the hood?

When I did my scoop this way, I had in mind the 70 Chevelle that I used to run, which had a similar backward facing scoop (then called a "cowl induction") which took advantage of the high pressure air that gathered at the base of the windshield. Those scoops were located closer to the glass than mine is, so I'm not sure if I'm making similar gains, but the ones on the Chevelles were good for 20+ hp. I faced it backward so that I did not "ram" it full of water and mud every time I ran off road.

The scoop is far enough away from the windshield so that water splashing on the window won't really flood out the scoop, and if it does get some water in it (I've ran tons of time in heavy downpours) it just drains out the bottom of the air box anyway. The least of my worries is filling it with water.

I admit that this system has its limits. But so does my truck. I've had it in as deep as the pin stripe just below the windows, and that is plenty far enough for me. I'm still trying to get stuff dried out from that escapade. If I were trying to ford creeks in a do or die situation, I'd likely go full snorkel, but that isn't my intent. I just wanted to stop flooding the air box with every little water hole I ran through and for that my scoop system works perfectly.

I'm not sure how you would duct something like this to your aftermarket intake. If you just have an open element filter under the hood -- or perhaps a small walled off area like the FPIC from K&I, then I don't know if it would help much, for whatever is under the hood is also in your air. You could box it in, I guess, and then duct the fresh air to the system. You'd keep the advantage of the full-flow filter (I run a True-Flow foam filter in my modified stock box. http://www.trueflow.com/ Love the filter because it works great and I can pound the crud out of it anytime. It also drys well if it gets soaked.) but have the fresh air from outside the hood, where it isn't heated. That should make an improvement in horse power, but I wouldn't write home about it... :D

Real gains mean moving more in and out of the engine, via cam, head work, exhaust work, and of course, intake mods. A filter system can add some, but you still have the rest of the system to deal with.
 






I had a KKM and changed to a modified stock box with a K&N when I did my snorkel. I felt a loss in high rpm horse power, but a gain in down low torque (Probably because of the more restrictive air way). I don't really drive on the interstate, so I can't comment on that. I think I'd probably have to get up to about 80 mph before that had any effect, and my truck will never see that fast with me driving it.

BTW: the intake sound from the snorkel when revving it is soooo sweet. I like the sound of my truck reving better while standing next to the intake then next to the exhaust. It's a mean race car "vroosh"
 






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