solid axle swap... kinda?

[Shagnasty]

First off... I did the obligatory searches and found no real answers.
I've got a 2000 exp xls, 2wd with 3.27 gears. I;ve decided not to spend a grand to change the specific output of the engine, but am now interested in a 4x4 setup. I've almost paid the beast off... so now it's time for fun. I really need to know what xfer case works on this 5 speed manual, and also whether a leaf spring setup can be adapted. I know flex might lose out.. but hey, i'm not a rock crawler (yet). Also, where can i find a dana44 hp and the necessary shop to fix it up as needed? I figure that an SOA in the back with short blocks, along with axle bars (to prevent wrap) could take it up as necessary in the back. Lemme know what you all think.. AND BE CRITICAL! I don't wanna get myself into another jam. : )

Thanks,
Dave

BTW - If you've got the parts i need LEMME KNOW!!!!

 

[Shagnasty]

anyone/?>

 

[CoryL]

To get the tranny setup to accept a t-case you'd need to get the 4wd tranny output shaft and the 4wd t-case adapter tailshaft for the tranny and install them. Then you can bolt up the t-case and new driveshaft.

A few people have done SAS up front with leafs, but there are no kits available. Not sure what shops down there want in terms of price. The part that makes it expensive is the labor it will take to get the steering changed from rack and pinion to a normal steering box.

Check the junk yards for solid axles as well as ebay and various off-road boards online.

If you weren't so far away I would offer to do the swap for you at my shop, but it would be a hell of a drive from Texas to Louisville, KY. If you would be interested I could work out a deal with you. Email me with questions if you are interested. CoryL@CRLCustoms.com

 

[Shagnasty]

Which D44 am i looking for though? The labor I can do... just need better ideas of part #'s and what not.

Thanks for your help!

 

[CoryL]

You can weld and fabricate? Cool, cause you will be doing a lot of that!

Which D44 for leafs? It is up to you. Search. It's been covered a lot. Probably end up with one from a Waggy.

 

[taxx]

I think the one from the waggy is pretty straight forward springs and all. I don't think anyone had to cut theirs. You still need a steering box though.

I Am seriously researching this too at this time. However I want to do coils right off the bat, so I am trying to find out what axle to use, I'll probably get one off of a full size and have it shortened. THen I need spring seets, I think the ones from a ranger will work, and then control arms, that is where I get lost. Maybe I can make some measurments and make my own? I don't know i'm gonna spend some time on the ranger board looking at their setups.

 

[CoryL]

If you are going to go coils, do it right and use Wild Horses V/R Rockcrawler coils.

The 3.5" coils provide about 6" of lift on a TTB vehicle converted to a solid axle.

To run them you should look for the lower spring seats off of an Early Bronco rather than a Ranger.

I would NOT suggest using TTB coils. They don't flex for crap.

As for the control arm setup, I would suggest either a 3- link or 5-link. Both utilize a panhard bar which will keep you from experiencing out of this world bumpsteer.

 

[taxx]

What upper seats would I use? The ones from a bronco or from a ranger? i am not using the springs from a TTB but I don't know if I want those 6" springs since that would be 8 - 10 on my application. I guess I could mount the upper seats higher? i still got a lot to learn, the control arms will be the hardest for me since I know nothing about them. Are they easy to make?

 

[CoryL]

Upper mounts...

Depends on the lower mounts and where they attach to the axle in relation to the frame.

If they are far enough in, you could make mounts UNDER the frame and run a smaller coil. If they sit outboard you could either use a Ranger coil bucket or fab your own.

As for the control arms. Length is your friend. I would imagine for your application a 36" length would be a minimum depending on ability to put frame mounted brackets.

How are you going to attach the control arms to the brackets on the frame and axle? Johnny joint? Rubicon Express joint? Bushings? Heims?

If you want adjustability you need to go heim. To go heim you either need to tap the tubing (I would use at least 1.5" DOM with a .25 wall thickness with a sleeve of 1.75" .120 wall DOM or HREW) or get the weld in inserts. However, to run the 1.25" heim joint you'd need to start with 1.75" .250 wall tubing and dril and tap the ends.

Or you can get the weld in bungs. Hopefully soon I will be able to sell heims, misalignment spacers, jam nuts, and the weld in bungs for a reasonable price.

It all depends really. If you have design and functionality questions please ask.

 

[taxx]

thanks cory. I got lots of research to do. I know very little about this process. I am sure you will be seling that stuff by the time I need it.

 

[Shagnasty]

hey cory, my welding doesn't quite cut it as fab work goes yet. If i design the spring purches and necessary steering box adaptor, complete with measurements... could you weld it up for me? Also, anyone know which xfer case i need for my 5 speed?

thanx

 

[Jason_25]

Originally posted by Shagnasty
hey cory, my welding doesn't quite cut it as fab work goes yet. If i design the spring purches and necessary steering box adaptor, complete with measurements... could you weld it up for me? Also, anyone know which xfer case i need for my 5 speed?

thanx

Either the 4405 or the 1354 models. I recommend the manual shift 1354.

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by Shagnasty
hey cory, my welding doesn't quite cut it as fab work goes yet. If i design the spring purches and necessary steering box adaptor, complete with measurements... could you weld it up for me? Also, anyone know which xfer case i need for my 5 speed?

thanx

Best would be if you could draw it up or have someone draw it up in CAD.

Would you send me the pieces for me to weld? Or want me to fab everything based off your measurements?

Either way I should be able to help you out.

I'd go with a 1354 manual tranny if you can find one. If not and you really want a wheeling machine, get an Atlas 2.

 

[Shagnasty]

As far as those two xfer case options, i'll do whatever is cheaper/better. Cost benifit ratio research time. As far as CAD goes, I used to use it in highschool some years ago, and I just found a copy on Kazaa, so I'll do it. Another gent here is doing the same swap to a 98 sport, so I'll contact him for measurements/pics, and maybe we can design some direct boltons? I really don't wanna do too much welding on my frame. The metal stock I will be more than happy to supply. I'll post more when I've got time to research this a bit more. I really want to see how that 98 turns out first. I don't need some monster of a wheeler, just a good 4x that will get me where I wanna go, even if I've got to drive "around" an obstacle.

If i keep it mild, how much higher will it be? I don't want it too high believe it or not.

BTW, whats a good price for a D44 from a waggoneer? I just don't want to get screwed. Even though I've got the funds, I'm a cheap guy. Thanks for all the info Cory. This place is full of good peeps.

Later,
the Dave.

 

[CoryL]

It would probably be cheaper for me to supply the steel rather than ship it twice should you decide that route.

1354 would be the better case for a decent wheeler on a budget.

As for amount of lift. Unknown. Depends on the leaf springs you use and how you mount the hangers.

Price on a waggy axle? Depends again. Some areas of the country are more expensive. Pick and pulls are usually cheaper too. I wouldn't pay more than $150 for one though.

 

[Shagnasty]

With the 1354, I'd also want to get the native drivelines for that setup, right?

 

[CoryL]

For the rear yeah.

Since you are swapping a new front axle in a new yoke will more than likely be needed. Also, depending on how you mount your leafs, you may need a longer or shorter driveshaft. Wait and have a custom one made up front.

The downside to the Waggy is that it is a 6 bolt pattern I think. That mean mismatched rims or new axleshafts and redrilled drums out back.

 

[Shagnasty]

As far as bolt spacing, I used to use an adapter on an old baja back in the day. Could I make or by an adaptor for the rear? This would also provide a little added width

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by Shagnasty
As far as bolt spacing, I used to use an adapter on an old baja back in the day. Could I make or by an adaptor for the rear? This would also provide a little added width

It is my opinion that wheel spacers suck. I'm not a big fan of them. If you had luck with them in the past and want to try them, go ahead so long as it is cheaper. If they cost more than new axleshafts, I wouldn't think twice.

 

[taxx]

would I be cheating myself if I did a leaf spring setup in the front to get it all set up and where I want it? Then maybe later down the road I convert it to a coil one part at a time? I am just thinking this would be the least down time and most economical in the beggining?