Update
So a few days ago I picked up all the parts for the Oldsmobile.
Parts List:
Hub Bearings - 2
Lower Control Arm Bushings - 4
Lower Ball Joints - 2
Outer Tie Rod Ends - 2
Stabilizer Bar - 1
Stabilizer Bar Bushings - 2
Stabilizer Bar Links - 2
Beer - 48
The Parts:
Got to have some PB Blaster to get stuff apart (
God Bless PB Blaster :notworthy ),
and some Liquid Wrench to put it back together.
One of the Hub Bearings, new socket set, and borrowed tool set from Advanced. And a Beer, one of many for this job.
This project started because of a bad Hub Bearing and bad Control Arm Bushings. When I started taking it apart I discovered this.
So that stabilizer bar looked like it was going to be a bear to get out, so I went and looked at the guide on Auto Zone for some tips and found this info.
The front stabilizer shaft (sometimes called a sway bar) is mounted to the top rear of the frame and to the lower control arm. The shaft is attached to the frame with clamps and rubber insulators and to the control arms with insulator links.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Because the front stabilizer shaft is mounted to the powertrain subframe, the subframe (with the powertrain) must be lowered to service the stabilizer bar. This is a lengthy and exacting procedure requiring special lifting and jacking equipment. In addition, the rack and pinion steering assembly stub shaft must be disconnected from the steering column. GM specifies that the subframe-to-body bolts, once disturbed, must be replaced with new service replacement parts. Procure the necessary hardware before beginning this procedure. This is not a job for the inexperienced or ill-equipped.
So after reading that Im thinking, Son of a Monkey. So I figured I would give a try. The tie rods are in the way and the ends are getting replaced anyhow so I just cut them off and swung the tie rods up and out of the way.
Stabilizer Bar out in this picture.
After removing the bushings I found I could twist and turn the thing out from the passenger side. Its not that easy to unbolt the drivers side bushing but it can be done. I had to remove the bushings from the rod before it could be maneuver out. So lowering the subframe is one option, but my way worked just fine.
You can see here how the tie rods are in the way.
To salvage the center line and toe settings I locked the steering wheel in place after cutting the tie rod ends free, then smacked them back into the knuckle and got the most accurate measurement I could from the subframe to a pencil mark on the knuckle. It worked out great.
Tie rod end not connected in this picture, but it obviously was when I measured.
Getting the ball joints separated was a *****. You cant just pound on the steering knuckle to pop it out or use a pickle fork because the knuckle is made of aluminum. I couldn't get any kind of a tool in there even with the control arm off the sub frame and the half shaft pulled from the hub and moved out of way. This was the only tool in the kit that even came close, it worked, but its not the right tool.
I started this thread because I didn't know if I should compress the strut springs or not. I burrowed the tool to compress them but I don't think its necessary.
Spring compressors installed.
Did you notice what I had to do to that 3/4in. wrench to get it up to the top of the tower?
So its all finished. Sorry I didn't take any pictures after I started pulling it apart. The weather turned to crap, it was cold and I just wanted to get it finished.
Another part of this project was to find a leak in the power steering. It looked like the oil was coming from the pump but there was so much oil all over the front and top of the engine I couldn't tell exactly where from the pump it was leaking. I rented another tool to yank the pump pulley and latter pull it back on. I cleaned up all the oil with 4 cans of brake clean, replace the o-ring on the high pressure hose (it was smashed) and the o-ring on the tank. So far so good. The pump makes a minor wining noise when turning the wheel, I don't know if I didn't get all the air out or the pump got trashed from running it low all the time. Its not foaming, so I think the pump is not long for this world.
That it for Oldsmobile work for now.
Bob
