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spring over ?

cool.. thanks for the info and the pics.
 



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what the hell are the swaybar extenstions for? is there any way to keep my swaybars without having to cut and weld the superlift brackets?
 






The swaybar extensions are for reattaching the sway bar 5 1/2 inch further away from the frame. The stock ones are too short now. I found the extensions rubbed the spare so I ditched the whole thing. I actually used the new rear extensions in the front. And then I didn't have to use the blocks they sent. Which I couldn't make work anyway.
 






welli have a 95 with the torsion bars so i dont need them up front. My problem is the shock mount is in the way of the sway bar so i would have to take the sway bars off to mount the shocks so then the swaybar extensions are useless
 






I did the SOA on my 94 and followed the method of keeping the welded on brackets parallel. Well I had Hella vibration. Last night I installed some 6 degree wedges and the got rid of 95% of my vibrations. But there is still some left.

Jeff, I agree with you I beilve the Pinion and the drive shaft should be in-line.

IF I cant seem to get all the Vibration out, does anybody know where I could order a CV driveshaft??

Ryan
 






ok just did the spring over!!!!!

here are the prolems i ran into:

the little shock that attaches to the diff and the fram to prevent lateral movement is to short i think. can i take it off entirely??

I got the leaf springs from another guy from our board and they had a add a leaf and the overload leaf in them. I took them apart and took out the overleaf and kept the add a leaf in thinking it would be about right since they were older springs. Well now i am 1 inch high in the back!!!!!!!

if i take out the add a leaf should i put the overload spring in or should i leave that out??

do add a leafs have a direction they go in or are they bi directional ( is there a front and back?)

Lastly, my axel is tilted forward increasing the angle between my drive shaft and diff.

thanks

Jeff
 






Try replacing the u-joints. You might also need to lengthen your driveshaft. Those are two culprits of vibration after a lift. Also, I won't argue that rotating your axle cleaned up a lot of your vibration but a single cardan u joint like a stock X wants to have both ends of the driveshaft at the same angle. Changing the axle angle from stock will make the two ends dissimilar and actually CAUSE vibration.
 






I am going to re do the soa next weekend. take out the add a leaf and put the overload back in. Ill see how the angle is after i do that.
 






Hopefully this will shed some more light on the subject.

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Ryan, You probably reached the limits of your drive shaft. You might try tom woods driveshafts. they are a mail order place and you send them your specs and the send you a shaft. Try looking in a mag for a number or a search engine would yeild something. Ive heard tom wood's is awesome.

Jeff, like I said, I don't have any problems with out the oveload or my old addleaf. Depending on how high you are, you might leave them both out. The overload will give you close to 1/2 and inch of lift and better tow capacity. If you tow at all or if you are low in the rear I would put it in. Also, the add-leaf could give you up to 2" of lift or only 1/2 an inch depending on age and condition. Also it will be stiffer if it is newer. The horizontal shock is for wheel hop. I don't get wheel hop, but I have the pushrod 4.0 and 33s with 3.73 gears, so I cant tell you if axle wrap will be a problem. You might try it and if it is, see if you can get a longer shock. You will have wheel hop and you might even get some breakage when you eccewlerate hard if it is a problem. Lets see some pictures of that truck!!

Zensuis is right on.

Also Jeff to answer another question, did you keep your new pads parralell to your old ones??? If they are then do you get any vibration?? If not then who cares wha it looks like, it works right! Oh, most addleafs are pretty simple and it doesn't matter which way they face. I've installed 3 sets and they were non directional and it didn't matter which side they were on.
 






Yeah they are parrellel to the eye and they cant be adjusted unless you started cutting up the superlift bracket. ill try to get a pic of it tonight and put it on the web tommorrow (the thing that connects the camera to the comp is at work)
 






FYI:

When I did my SOA, I used a long box 4wd Ranger driveline. They are a few inches longer than a stock 4dr Explorer driveline.
 






was that a two peice driveshaft? That is good info.
 






I just took some pics tonight so ill be able to post them tommorrow evening.

My drive shaft looks like it came out more from the tranny? is this normal when adding more lift. i gained about 2-2.5 inches. I took a pick of it and ill post it tommorrow eveneing
 






What year ranger did you get the driveshaft out of??

Ryan
 






Not quite sure about the 2 piece part.:confused: It looks just the Explorer ones only a bit longer.

It came out of a 91 Ranger with a 7.5 rear end. It doesn't matter if it has an automatic or 5 speed as the trannys are the same length. You should be able to use the ones from 89-92 with no problem. I am not sure about newer ones.
The only difference I noticed was that the u-joints are smaller in the 7.5 axle Rangers. The 8.8 Rangers might be bigger but there were none in the wrecking yard at the time to check.
It was a direct fit with no mods and was the perfect length.
 






jeremy, Thanks for all the info.

Do you have any vibrations problems with yours at speeds above 60.

And when you did your sping over how did you mount your spring perches, did you rotate the axel at all or did you do it parallel?

Ryan
 






I have a really bad vibration at 65 mph. It starts at about 62 and is gone at 70, but I also had this vibration when it was bone stock but it was more in the front then and has moved to the rear. It feels like the u-joint at the transfer case is shot, but it's tight and have been running it this way for 10,000 miles now.

We set the rear angle the same as it was before the lift, however I can't say that we welded the perches parallel to the old ones because we never checked. We just used an angle finder to reset the pinion angle the same as it was.
 






here are some pics of my truck and the drive shaft does it look right? is the driveshaft supose to come out as much where it goes into the trans??


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Twotoned- did you have any prolem fiting in the ubolts on the inside inbetween the shock mount? there is not enought clearance on mine.

also your axle looks tilted up (the way i think it should be. do you shim it?

I am going to try to redo it this week cuase i have to take out the add a leaf anyway.
 






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