Startup issues (´95 4.0L)

[caaine]

Hi,

I am unable to get my car to start properly using the ignition. But if I switch on the ignition and use a screwdriver to short the polars on the start-thingie (don´t know what it´s called in English, sorry - partno. ONE SW-1951-C / EZTZ-11450-B RELAY). Then the car starts up normally. I figured the "start-thingie" was broken and replaced it (hence I have the partno). But that didn´t work.

When I try to start, all electrical components come on without a problem and I hear a buzz-kinda-sound for a bit which then stops.

I also checked all fuses (in both the engine compartment and driver side door).

I am left to think that the problem is related to the wiring to the ignition or ?

Only other thing not working (which I just noticed) is a rear brake light, in case that can be related in any way to the electrics to the ignition.

So, anything else that I could check before taking the car to a shop?

EDIT: When I started thinking harder, I ran out of battery earlier the day due to having the doors open for too long since I was loading my car for a trip. I got a start using cables from another vehicle. Drive approx. 80miles stop the car, start again successfully drive some 100miles more and then it won´t start.

Not the best place in the world to have a fully loaded car, with your family that won´t start, at Jökulsárlón.

(http://www.hornafjordur.is/jokulsarlon/myndasafn//album/143/)

Since I´m on the subject and you are car enthusiasts, lots of events been recorded at Jökulsárlón. New Mercedes ad, James Bond intro in View to a kill and TopGear had a race there in season 8.

http://www.hornafjordur.is/jokulsarlon/myndasafn//album/144/

Thanks in advance,

Caaine

 

[budwich]

The fuse for the start circuit is after your ignition switch. How did you " checked all your fuses".... with a meter or your eyes??? Looking at a fuse is like looking at a woman, they may look alright but when you get "right down to it", they could be "fubarred". Use a meter. Check to see that you have voltage going into the fuse and coming out towards your starter relay (the thing you replaced without any good results). In addition, there is an "anti theft" relay in the circuit.

 

[caaine]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

I checked them with my eyes. I did not measure if a current was coming through the wire, during ignition.

How does the anti-theft thingie work? Do I have to do something if it´s triggered?

Unfortunatly I do not own a users manual and have not found one online, but might just purchase from ebay unless you know of different sources.

Thanks again,

Caaine

 

[budwich]

The anti-theft module (if you have one - ford option) causes the anti-theft relay to pull up and break the circuit so that you don't get voltage to your starter relay which in turn does allow you to start. Do you have "anti theft" option?

As far as info, search for ford truck cd... there is a free download site somewhere referenced herein. I just purchased the equivalent cd for $5 from ebay. Of course, its in english so it may or may not be completely helpful for you ... but there are lots of pictures and schematics that should be useful. You can also jumper out the anti-theft relay (ie. replace the relay with a direct jumper) much like your are doing to the starter relay to get things to run. If that doesn't work, then you need a meter to figure out where things are bad as the voltage goes from your key switch, thru a fuse to the contacts of the anti-theft relay to the pull-up coil of the starter relay. I assumes its the contacts (switched) of the starter relay that you are shorting... this is the equivalent of activating the pull up coil. Hope that is understandable.

 

[caaine]

Great info,

I do have the anti-theft option (actually pretty much all options that were available at purchase).

And since you mention it - there might be a connection because I cannot seem to be able to lock the car with the numpad on the door anymore, might have happened at the same time? Do not know for certain as I don´t use it all that often but was trying to lock it at after tenting with the keys in the tent.

Could you be a bit more specific on which relay it is and what needs to be done to exlude the anti-theft system from the equation?

Thanks so far for very concise answers,

 

[budwich]

probably not going to be able to help much more.... mine is a 96 and doesn't have the option. From 96 drawings the relay is in the "relay module" which is behind the center dash panel area. Basically, I would think that you just pull it out and place a wire jumper in the socket where the two pins are. OF course, get the right pins. measure the relay with a ohm meter. Two will be shorted (these are the two you want... probably pins 3 and 4 but that's on my 96 drawings) while two will have some resistance... these are the "pull-up" windings for the relay.... the other contact is what gets switched when the relay operates causing the "no start" condition.... basically to nowhere.... you don't need this connection.