Steering box replacement

[Calixto]

I have a 94 EB and it's looking like I am going to have to replace the steering box. What am I looking at as far as removal and replacement goes??????

 

[DeRocha]

Are you asking how to replace the steering gear, or how much would this job cost at a shop?

 

[Calixto]

steering

Probably both

 

[RangerX]

I replaced mine in my driveway with basic hand tools, and used a $40 junkyard box. Virtually all Ford trucks use the same box, so you can pull one from a Bronco, F150, F250, etc.

 

[Maniak]

My current box is off a '91 e-150.. The box I had on before that was from an f-250.

Its not hard to remove.. just two lines, 3 bolts and the pitman arm (not hard to take off with a decent pitman arm puller)


~Mark

 

[RMBranch]

Steering gear box

A moment of silence while I mourn the loss of my faithful '94 ... she just bled too many fluids to keep up with.

Happy side is that my neighbor found a '91 replacement; they're asking *low* price on it but it reportedly needs steering gear box. I've looked through the threads, either I'm computer illiterate or I missed a more detailed explanation of the process.

The Haynes manual (of course) calls for a special Ford tool for removal and so I naturally got scared. I mean if the truck don't start, inconvenience. But if it don't stop or steer that's going to be a significant emotional event.

If it is as relatively easy as I'm led to believe, then it just makes this truck all that more attractive to buy.

Anyone have more detailed instructions on this process? Any tips?

 

[Calixto]

okay, replaced box, now still moaning and hard steering. No bubbleing fluid as before but still not right

 

[IZwack]

In my quest for a rightuous world governed only by the rules of hydraulics, I've discovered that the steering pump will moan/groan in two situations:

1) When the pump is going to bypass mode -- when the system pressure is beyond specs and the relief valve has opened which recirculates fluid internal of the pump. This could mean that the bypass valve in your vehicle is just worn out or dirty.

2) When the pump is starved of fluid -- dirty/gunky reservoir?

The good news is that replacing the pump on the 1st gen typically means also replacing the reservoir since you have a pump with an integral reservoir on the back (see image below). Whats even better is that the pump+reservoir unit is not very expensive and can be had for typically $50-$70 from most parts store.

 

[glfredrick]

Hot setup...

Get a Saginaw pump from an E350 van -- it should bolt right in and give you about half again as much steering force.

As said above, the boxes are no real big deal. No special tools required -- just regular hand tools and a pitman arm puller, which you can rent at most auto parts stores.

I've done a bunch of them -- fairly easy, except getting at the fittings for the hoses once in a while.

 

[IZwack]

Get a Saginaw pump from an E350 van -- it should bolt right in and give you about half again as much steering force.

The Saginaw pumps (both P style and TC style) can be modified for greater pressure for less than a dollar -- all thats needed is a #4 washer placed inside the flow piston. Instruction here: http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

 

[Calixto]

Okay replaced the steering gear,now I'm installing power st. pump I'm installing a NEW pulley also, old one wouldn't come off w/o damage. Now it comes with the bolt,nut,washer to install.HAYNES said to use special install tool. Tried with the bolt,nut and washer and I'm getting nowhere

 

[glfredrick]

Okay replaced the steering gear,now I'm installing power st. pump I'm installing a NEW pulley also, old one wouldn't come off w/o damage. Now it comes with the bolt,nut,washer to install.HAYNES said to use special install tool. Tried with the bolt,nut and washer and I'm getting nowhere

The pulleys on power steering pumps require a press fit, which takes special tools to install.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=10314&group_ID=1244

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=10308&group_ID=1554

A cheaper version can be found at Harbor Freight and other places:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40749

You may also be able to duplicate what that special tool does with several washers, a bolt, and some grease. Just double up the washers, grease them well so they allow some slipping without galling the surface, and push on the new pulley by tightening down a bolt. Some new pumps even come with a longer bolt for this very purpose.

Good luck -- it is not the most difficult task in the world, but it will take a bit of time. and the pulley will fight you all the way on. That is exactly what is intended by the factory engineers, who designed it to be an interference press fit.

 

[IZwack]

Yeah most pump and/or pulley will come with an el-cheapo install kit - its difficult but it'll work.

To make things easier:

- (as mentioned) put some thick grease (lithium, or a teflon-based grease works well) on the bolt/nut that came with the install kit. A little grease on the shaft of the pump also does wonders -- dont worry, the pulley wont slip out even if you grease the pump's shaft

- you'll also probably need a long tube/pipe as an extention on a socket to drive this pulley on

- if you have a rubber (or "dead blow") mallet and the right size socket, tap the pulley on just to give it that initial bite into the pump's shaft. Some pulleys are mostly plastic with only an inner metal ring. If this is the case, tap only on the metal inner ring as the plastic will crack.

 

[ChasAld]

Yeah most pump and/or pulley will come with an el-cheapo install kit - its difficult but it'll work.


- if you have a rubber (or "dead blow") mallet and the right size socket, tap the pulley on just to give it that initial bite into the pump's shaft. Some pulleys are mostly plastic with only an inner metal ring. If this is the case, tap only on the metal inner ring as the plastic will crack.

BEWARE! Hammering on the end of a shaft is not good on the bearings or mechanical seal. I KNOW, it's done all the time. But the potential for damaging internal rotating parts is much greater when hammering (even litely)on the end of a shaft and may/maynot show up immediately. Use the proper tools. They,ll come in handy later on. JUST my $.02 worth.