I was mistasken about failing test three. I had the two connector wires backwards. The wire I was getting no signal from was the EEC-IV control wire, But once I plugged the harness back in and stuck a pin through the insulation on the EEC-IV control wire I got the correct amount of voltage between the positive battery terminal and the pin. So I passed all the tests. I'm convinced that theres nothing wrong with my IAC, computer, or wiring.
Yesterday me and my friend flushed the radiator. I don't think it has been flushed since it was new, 85000 miles ago. The following story is probably the most hilarious radiator flushing story most of you have ever heard. So my friend gets under the truck and opens the drain valve on the radiator, to our surprise, nothing comes out. My friend (I'll refer to him as Andy from now on) starts sticking a screw driver up the drain valve. Still nothing comes out. By now, we're starting to get frustrated. We decided desparate times call for desparate measures, so we tried hooking the air compressor up to the drain valve, in an attemp to clear it. We pressurized the valve to 60 psi, when this did nothing, we cranked up the pressure on the air compressor. At about 110 psi, we finnaly got a result, the radiator ERUPTED out the filling spout and drain valve. I mean the whole truck was coverd in gummy anti-freeze, rust particles, dirt, and grease. Andy rolls out from under the truck on a creaper, his whole face and upper body covered in the crap from the radiator. I almost passed out I was laughing so hard. It took us about 3 hours to clean the crap from every corner of the garage, a wall 20 feet from the truck was well splattered.
I share the following story because ever since the flushing, my Idle problem has almost disapeared. I dont have any problems when cold and the engine almost works right once warm. I'm going to take it to a mechanic and have them hook it up to the diagnostic computer, it probably just needs a new sensor somewhere. I think it now works better because, before the flushing, the coolant temp. sensor had no liquid to sense, just some rusty sludge. Now that it actually has coolant to sense, it provides a much more accurate signal.
Thanks for all the info, Dogfriend, its nice to know that there are people who are willing to sacrifice their time to help someone for free. The world could use more people like you.