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Stuck header

Terran

Active Member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Nashua, NH
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 Eddie Bauer
I was trying to prepare my newly aquired 91 Explorer for a trip in 2 weeks by changing all the gaskets in the top end. I got as far as takingthe headers off and all the bolts rounded out. I was using a 13mm wrench, i don't know if there is an SAE size that will fit better? I bought a craftsmen bolt-out kit for a 13mm and it didn't really fit too well (too small, the wrench fit fine though). I need to get these out, any hints?
 



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anybody?

I really need to know the best way to get these stuck bolts out. I also need to know what the size of the bolt is.
 






The bolt out is supposed to be hard to get on, it digs into the bolt head.

You could cut the heads off and remove the studs. My neighbor did my headers and use a Metrinc kit to get some nearly rounded bolts off, of course there was no rust either.
 












No clue, I've got headers now and the bolts that came with those have a bigger head, so I can't go check for you. Whatever sockets fits the best, be it metric or SAE, use that.
 






well when i used the 13mm wrench with a 4' pipeover it, it just rounded the bolt off.
 






But you're in NH, how rusted is it? I don't have to deal with rust.
 












try a 1/2 inch socket, hammer it on. 1/2 is a bit smaller than a 13mm, if i doesn't work you will have to cut it off and remove the stud.
 






You said you had a bolt-out kit. Hammer that thing on and try that out. My neighbor's Metrinc kit worked great for the almost-rounded heads. It's metric/SAE in one. An odd but useful design.
 






Terran said:
is 13mm the right size? Or is it SAE?

If you used a 13mm and ended up rounding the nuts, then my guess is that it should be a 7/16" as a 1/2" would be to big. Using a 14mm on a 13mm should be big enough to just spin on the nut, not round the corners. My guess, SAE 7/16".

But all of that is mute at this point, didn't you say it is rounded off? You need a bolt extractor, bolt-off, or one heck of a set of vice grips...

Or a torch, and drill and tap set.
 






OK, well keep in mind the engine is IN the car and it's in my driveway, so how would i remove the stud in this situation?
 






You should have the wheels and inner fender covers off to do this job.
 












accessability isssues..

dunno exactly which bolts ur talking about but i had problems getting a bolt that attaches the rest of the exhaust to the exhaust manifold... this was one of the bolts at the vey back (relative to the front/back of the vehicle) of the exhaust manifold.. it held the tube with the catalytic converters to the exhaust manifold.. after trying the bolt out thing and making no progress, what i ended up doing was cutting the bolt off with a hack saw since there was about 1.5 inches of of bolt showing.. note that there wasnt any room for the hack saw handle so i had to cut it with just the blade, took a bit longer but i eventually got it cut.. so after cutting, this pretty much left a stud in the back of the exhaust manifold. after the manifold came out, i tried heating it with a propane torch to try to expand it a little bit to get the stud out, but it just wasnt getting hot enough.. and i dont have an acetylene torch so i took it to a local auto shop, they heated it up pretty good with an acetylene torch and they were able to use pliers to twist the threaded part of the bolt out.
 






They are the three bolts that hold the headers to the engine. They are not only baked on, but slightly corroded too. I don't really want to take my acetlyene torch to my engine head.
 






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